Piggaz

Either way you have to wait for the synchro’s.... well to match speed. Sick. So you have a mad looking shifter that goes backwards and forwards.... slowly. You cant set up a fancy nob to ignition cut for a quick change like a real sequential box.... so what’s the point. Well I suppose you could but the shift won’t be any quicker because of the synchro’s. *ignition cut..... cutting..... cutting...sweet they’re matched now”. To do that you’ll need a fancy nob ($1000-$1600 depending on what one you choose) and an ECU that can do that so that rules out a Power FC. “Farrrrkk, you got a sequential bro?” ”Nah man, still a factory box but it looks like I do. Sick hey!. Can you like my car on Insta and Facetube?” ?. Take the money and put something decent on the car! It’s junk and belongs in the dumpster!

That product really needs to stop production. What a nugget.

$250.

Yes i am.

Flick through this. Your question has been answered 11ty times.

I got an alloy hat spun up, drilled and tapped threads for the fittings. I ran a -12 breather with a "roll over valve" so air can only come in the tank. (No fuel smell). expensive? Yup....

Gearbox sold.

Anyone who buys a 7670 and wants 450 kw will be greatly disappointed. Boost solenoid was rooted, VCT wasn't working... what else is wrong with it? ?

You've seen? 488 kw out of a 7670? Field mice power, right?

Why would you put 0.64 rear housings on them? Lets take a big step back and go through this. First things first, standard intake piping. It's tight, small with horrible bends... how much air do you think those pipes can flow? Put a MAP sensor on them somewhere and I bet you will be seeing a vacuum that Dyson would be proud of! That's issue 1. Issue 2. Jamming wheels into housings that they don't belong in. The GTX 67 mm wheels in the proper housings flow 46 lb/min flat stick. What will they flow in A) GTR compact housings and B) dealing with the nugget OEM pipework? I bet it won't be 46 lb/min! Issue 3. Turbine wheel. It's the same turbine wheel as what is used on the 2860 -5 which flows 36/min. Somehow it seems to be a thing to just keep throwing larger compressors at a turbo charger with no thought given to the other side. It's just retarded. Air in AND out. How can you get more new air in when the hot side is choked up like a mofo? If it worked then we would all be running pro mod 88 compressor wheels with stock rear wheels and housings. Somehow I don't think that would work. ? Issue 4. Turbine housing. THEN you take off the 0.85 housings which would have allowed it to relieve itself a little (seeing that the turbine wheel hasn't grown) and tighten it back up. 2540's - big front, small rear... nuggets GT RS's - big front, small rear... nuggets. This really is not a hard concept to grasp. Why is it that any of these GTX low mounts don't seem to go much further north than 500 kw (on an RB) irrespective or what size compressor wheel is it it? The cars that use the genuine GTX housings always seem to give a better result. Why? Because it FORCES you to redo the intake piping and go to a 3 inch pipe. However, that doesn't fix the poor little hot side. If you get blinded by the compressor map (which seems ALL too common around here) the 67 mm should make some bloody big numbers... never quite get there though. I wonder why? ? Would love to see the EMAP of a GTX 2867 0.64 AR. It would be absolutely horrendous. Its no different to say a GTX 3582 and jamming a 0.63 rear housing on it. You're A) not going to make the power the compressor can give B) Everything is choked up. More heat, more pressure. It's all bad. Dont want the power that a 3582 can give? Go back a turbo size and keep the larger ass end. It will be a much healthier way of doing it.

What about letting it out too?

Lol @ pissbin ?.

Let's wait and see huh. Buraz went between a 6262/0.84 PTE to a 9180/1.05 EFR which was tuned by Racepace. Said off boost it drove MUCH better, then belted it. A 6262/0.84 PTE to a 8374/1.05 EFR will be a walk in the park if it's tuned correctly. ?

You'll be calling Elon Musk to sort out some fandangle battery like South Australia had to with electric fans too. Don't have electric PS? May aswell. Lol

Atleast you can use your RHD points ?

Post 137. One of many examples. J.U.N.K!

And then when you upgrade your alternator, I'll bet my left nut your voltage at the pumps rise. So now the pumps are singing along a bit quicker, flowing more... AFR's get rich... tune is out. Let's go for another excursion to the dyno. What you tried to save, you bought anyway THEN add in another dyno session and the heartache of it all.

Ahh the old stock alternator with close to an extra 40 amps worth of load in feed pumps. They only produce 80 amp at full tilt. Just do it now! Power, power, power. More, more, more. Where is it all coming from? ?

40 micron between the main tank and surge, 6 or 10 between the surge and engine. Only makes sense to make them large.

Still has to be large enough to keep up with the demands of the twin feed pumps at full song draining the surge tank.

Lol. Not sure if that's worse than the VB. Full VB bottles make good paper weights too I suppose.

Done!

Wasn't much worse than what I was just offered ?. Atleast offer decent beer, Dan!

It's for sale. Buy it ?.