KiwiRS4T

Yes slow as a wet week...

How are you going to reach it if you crash?

Only ever heard of mickey mouse tyre shops breaking wheel studs! How much power are you putting through? Any steel wheel nuts should do. Aluminium nuts are not approved (for anything really).

I wouldn't be too keen to buy one with 220,000km. A lot of those seem to need new timing chains which could cost $2k...don't know why - maybe no maintenance.

A stock RB26 can't be tuned - you need to specify what ECU you are using or if you want to get an aftermarket ECU installed and tuned. And if you have an HKS ecu good luck! You may have to fly in a tuner from Japan (or NZ)!

I would have thought the slightly taller final drive a bonus...does it suit your needs?

Only one way to find out ...caps are not that expensive

^^^what he said... get a second hand one. I dumped mine when I went manual. Get filters from Repco or Supercheap. Any ATF will do...maybe get semi synthetic if you can

Buy a Toyota as cheaply as possible and save up for the GTT you know you want when you get your full licence.

Sounds like yours is stuck open or someone has removed it. Stock opens at 76.5 deg and even the Nismo one opens at 62 deg. There is little or no "slope". I have tested a number and at critical temperature they open pretty quickly. Suspend yours (if there is one) in a pot on the stove and observe.

Read this: http://www.goodezilla.com/rb26dett-skyline-gtr-single-turbo-vs-twin-turbo

I have only built about 4 or 5 engines with specified ring gaps and have never used a torque plate...not aware of any consequent problems...

Get on the NGK website and have a look. That number means nothing to me but there should be an Iridium plug for your car.

Unless you can find a complete GTR rear end at a good price. So yes, probably a Nismo is the way to go.

You can get cheaper units (and more expensive ones - yours looks ok) but it sounds like you are more concerned about the cost of installation. It might be cheaper if you had a unit with a RAV4 installation kit. If you can't install it yourself you are better to go round a few shops and ask for an installed price (they supply unit and install it). Or just bite the bullet and pay to get yours installed.

Maybe stand on the same side of the car as the reg and crop the pic down to the relevant area?

Where? No pics...

Do some testing. Do the before and after temps on the intercooler. Do an 80 - 120km time and then (find a quiet road) drop the exhaust (hold it up with wire) and repeat the test. The middle compressions are a bit low for my liking. Is there any tendency to overheat? Still got stock BOV? rubber hose in good condition? What happens when the boost is turned up? EGTs get too high? Or just no power? Maybe pull the turbo off and inspect it.

Back of ignition switch.

You say it is not turning over. You mean not firing? If it is not turning over (i.e. the starter is not spinning the engine) you have a different problem.

If there was a simple solution surely the seller would already have done it. Have you even jacked up the car to consider what it would take to remove the sump/diff!? Do the compression test. If you have access stick a camera down the plug hole.

Sounds ideal - bit of extra power when you want it! Can you return the boost T as faulty and get another? Try disassembling it and give it a clean and oil. Sure you have the hoses that bleed off and to the actuator the right way round?

R33 will be probably be 2 wd You have a 4wd - sure its going to fit?

It has been done a few times. Definitely easier with two wheel drive. The big problem people have is if retaining the air cond. Sorry don't have any tips for you but good luck! Oh and you will need bigger brakes - suggest K Sport or D2 type.

How old is the fuel pump? Did you buy it new? I would be inclined to replace it with something better.