GTSBoy

Nah - wireless power transmission is a thing dudes.

These are the key points. Any sacrifice of what the RB20 has to offer before the boost threshold only hurts driveability. You can make an RB20 make lots of power, but when you do you get nothing, nothing, nothing, wheelspin.

A short runner manifold an only be teh suck on an RB20.

In that context, the Nismo plenum, if it offers the benefits that they claim, would be a good thing. The larger plenum volume will certainly help on big power cars. The improvements to the runner geometry might help. The length increase would be unnoticeable (except inasmuch as it might contribute to the large volume).

It looks like a simple fabrication job. Do some measurements, do a sketch, and get a local sheet fabber to make it up out of stainless?

S13 and 14 are tripod CVs, (not the proper CVs on the 5 bolt axles). I'm pretty sure that the boots are different. As far as I know, any driveshaft/CV workshop should be able to source replacements.

90% it's the fuse.

It just sounds like ANY NA RB with an exhaust. Seriously.

They what? The runners one RB25 etc are waaay longer than 2 or 3 inches. Are you talking about RB26?

Just sounds like an NA RB. Just like an NA RB.

You could use just about any of the available rails to suit bottom mounted seats. If those ^ don't have any sliders, you will need either a separate set of sliders and a frame, or an all in one. Crank Motorsport are an example of a supplier that can do it either way. JustJap is another. Beware of some of the eBay suppliers

Even better, John Cardogan just this last week did a series of videos on Youtube agreeing 100% with me and 0% with R32Abuser.

Yes you will need an O2 sensor. And no, S1/2 and auto/man are not the same. There are real differences between S1 & 2. An auto ECU will run a manual (just with some mapping differences that aren't ideal) and a manual ECU won't play nice with the auto's TCU.

Give or take, they are same, yes.

Where else is a chunk off the top of the piston going to go?

That's what 9.5:1 looks like. Air-fuel ratio, not compression. Oh, and ~3-4° of ignition advance.

Fine.

There are no BS sensors at the rear of the rocker covers. There is one essential ECU boost sensor (essential to the stock ECU anyway), and some solenoid valves that you really shouldn't just pitch unless you know what they did and what you have just done to the engine. But, yes, wind the boost up now, to at least 15 psi, and just go for it.

Never heard of it.

No. A tuner is a tuner, not an engine builder. They need to know their place. Tell those that disagree to f**k off.

I'm with him ^. Tuna's opinion matters not one tiny speck of goat shit. It's your motor. You should put the best cams in it. Not those shitty 90s era lumps from Japan.

What does it say it is in the 30/26 build guide threads on here?

^ Wot he sed. You could do some work on the stock rods for old skool feel goods without spending any coin. New rods at that power level are not required, by any means. The only counter argument is that good rods are so cheap these days that spending the time and effort to open a motor and build it with bottom end parts that could take a lot more than the near future intended usage can also be seen to be a waste of time. How long is your piece of string?

Not even going to try to search?

You don't want the GL-5 oil.