GTSBoy

Bollocks. There are no rules. You write your resume or CV to suit the application that you are putting it to. You don't use the same format for a job as a carpenter as you do for a job as an engineer as you do for a position on a community committee.

The lower box even says ECR3 on the list of models that they fit.

The short answer though is, lefty loosey, righty tighty.

I don't think that you will get that information to the level of accuracy that you want. If it were me, I would create a way to manually calibrate the AFM. That would involve inserting it into a suitable (long) length of 3" tube (assuming 3" is the right size - choose the appropriate size for closest match to the AFM body) and do some manual measurements with a small plain pitot. The way to do that would be to ensure that the pipe upstream of the AFM was at least 15x the diameter of the tube, (so, at least 1200mm long) and drill a small hole to allow pitot insertion at a point >5D upstream the AFM and >10D downstream the inlet end. Probably put a bellmouth on the inlet end too, to give it the best chance of developing a clean velocity profile by the time it gets to the pitot location. Do a 5 or 7 point equal area traverse. If you're really keen, have another hole at right angles to the first to permit a 2nd traverse across the other plane. Convert all differential pressure readings to velocity then average all those values to obtain average velocity. (Also need to measure temperature and static pressure at the measuring location to calculate air density for the velocity calc). Then with the average velocity and the density in hand, simply convert to mass flow rate. You can do this at a variety of flow rates to compare against the AFM voltage reading. Be aware though that plain pitot measurements are not good below 5 m/s and the measurement error starts to climb as you go below 10 m/s. You could use some other sort of velocity measuring device. If you have a very small vane anemometer available (say, 15mm diameter head) and you had good calibration data for it (they always read a little low) you could use that to go direct to velocity. Ditto if you know someone with a proper hot wire anemometer, which is the exact same tech as the AFM you're trying to calibrate, conveniently. If you can't access any probe style velocity measuring tools, you could make an orifice plate (in accordance with the appropriate standard, which I think is BS 1042, or one of the equivalents) and measure the differential pressure across that. The beauty of the orifice technique is that you can make a number of different sized orifices so that you can extend the bottom end of the measuring range (by using smaller orifices). Any dP measurement will require that you be able to measure dP. The best/easiest way is with a suitable digital manometer, but you can always make an inclined manometer with a plank and some hose and you would be surprised how accurate that can be. Whatever length of tube you had the AFM in for these manual measurements (both on the inlet side and the outlet, which could be shorter) would be best retained as a permanent part of your test rig, because it will be a part of the calibration of the AFM.

It's probably fair to say that it can.

But. But. But. HKS! It's HKS man!

Yes....but..... Whilst the seats may claim "ADR Approved"..... The rails say "Off Road Use only". That's because the seats don't really need ADR approval and the rails do. And that goes to show you what sort of bullshit people can spin you into thinking that you're buying road legal stuff, when you're not. None of these seat rails are "ADR Approved". Not these. Not the Bride ones. Not the JJR ones. Nothing. As best I can tell, the only way to get aftermarket seats legally installed is to get an engineer's report on the mounting system. I'd assume that if you went to a proper motor trimmer who sells Recaros etc, that they would likely be able to generate such a report, because they actually do the install work and I'm sure that they have to be able to cover their arses legally. Probably not for free though. But face it, if you're buying thousands of dollars of Recaros for your Landcruiser, a couple hundred extra bucks isn't a big issue. But for cheapskate R33 owners buying seats that are only $200 each (!!), it's a roadblock. Right?

Question makes no sense. Go take a wheel off your car and see if you can work it out for yourself.

If unplugging the AFM didn't make it better, then it probably isn't the AFM at fault. It's a standard check - the ECU can limp along without the AFM.

Could also be fuel pump. Could be mechanical - on drive side of CAS. The drive has been known to be broken by donkeys. Unplug the AFM and see how it runs.

Please tell us that you have read the oil control thread. If you have no, then you have circa the last 100 pages of it to read before you proceed. No whining, no pissing, no moaning. Just do it.

Yup. Piece of corflute will fix it.

How big are the prizes in your race category?

The only problem is that the Sumitomo caliper bolts don't have any such markings. But they will be a high tensile grade. They have to clamp pretty hard.

I'm pretty sure that there won't be a part number for that bolt. The caliper was supplied to Nissan as a unit. 1 part number. The bolt will have a part number in Sumitomo's system, not Nissan's. it is just a bolt of suitable dimensions and tensile strength for the application. You have one in hand, so you know the exact dimensions that you need. All you need to know is what rating is good for calipers. I haven't ever considered splitting a caliper before - it not being very advisable and seldom necessary, so I've never been in a position to lose on and then have to wonder what grade the bolts are. But if I had to guess I'd suggest they'd be at least 10.9. Probably wise to ask a brake shop for guidance on that.

That is the very definition of a panel beater. I cry and I wail for the state of manual skills present in the motor trades these days. Take it somewhere else, to someone who has hammers and dollys and rolls and straightening benches.

1 psi of boost will make more power than either.

Before off the shelf body parts, people used to repair bent metal.

In a general sense, some R32 parts are usually common with most of the other Nissans available at the same time. Just pull the ones that you have out, pound them flat and anneal them, measure them so you can buy new ones in case it doesn't work, and put them back in.

Plastic plumbing fittings are often available in the right sizes.

I cannot imagine that it is necessary to actually swap the speed sensor. As I said, the speed signal should be exactly the same on both early and late 32s. That being a 0-5v square wave PWM. It's all shown in the R32 GTR manual. It must just be a matter of which pins it's all wired to.

There is an electrical difference. Well, there's no actual electrical difference as far as I know - it's just wiring pinouts. The speed signal out to the ECU is the same PWM. etc.

The more I think about it, the more I think that the best "twin" setup is a v.large turbo + an Eaton screw supercharger.

Oiling mods more important than ANYTHING else.

Just get used to it. To be fair, there are so many questions asked on here that the asker could get the answer for in about 3s of googling. Exasperation builds up quick.