GTSBoy

I'm not sure why you would want it. It lets more air under the car, which is not desirable (aerodynamically). If it's just for looks...... Note, I have seen that lip around before. It is essentially just the same as the stocker, with that bit missing in the middle. I've never cared to know who makes it, because of what I said above.

The front diffs for all the AWDs should be the same. They are not LSD - they're all open, F160 (I think it's 160) type. The GTR rear diff is, of course, quite different to the other cars'. CV joint input on the rear end of the tailshaft. Larger axle diameter with more splines + proper 6 bolt flanges. It's a pain in the arse to use GTR diffs in other cars because of the other things you have to change. The only reason to do so is if you have very good reasons (cheap access to the stuff you need, particular diff centre you want is only available for GTr type, etc etc). Otherwise, it's often better to just keep the original R200 housing and put in the mech/other centre you need/want. That is unless the original diff was from an NA or something and only had 3x2 flanges. Nothing wrong with those diffs/housings/stub axles/flanges. It's just the tripod CVs on them that are not as robust/good as the ones on the 5 bolt driveshafts.

I don't think so.

Take it to a mechanic and get it diagnosed.

The consensus is that the best front diff is Quaiffe and the best rear diff is either another Quaiffe (for a streeter) or a Nismo pro. There are always votes for the other brands, as per Steve above, and they are valid. But I have a soft spot for how nicely helical diffs drive compared to tight mechanicals.

Not bulging, no. We're talking about ball bearings here. You'd be looking for grindy noises, slop between races, crunchy feel, etc.

R35 coils are actually not that much more exxy than Yaris/et al in themselves. It's the kit that winds the cost up.

f**ked bearings, broken keyways, loose came pulley bolts, etc.

eBay.

They could have at least turned the front wheels to the right to make it look like it might have been capable of powersliding that corner.

Cams can't smack on the rocker cover. That's not possible. They rotate through 360° in there as normal business. The actual risk of taking the timing arrangement apart and not putting it back together correctly is that you will strike open valves with rising pistons and trash at least part of the motor. This is not to be contemplated if you do not know how to keep it all together in the right places as you take it apart and put it back together. I wasn't talking about thoroughly dismantling the timing arrangement though. Just about pulling the CAS off (and then maybe the upper timing cover too for a better look). And yes, the CAS needs to go back exactly where it came from, or you need a timing light to be able to reset it.

It's engine out to change the front diff. Just sayin'.....

The C-HR is no picnic to look at either. Another f**king clown car.

CAS drive is now your #1 suspect. Time to take it apart.

I told you why. Almost always for drag. Turbo cars on the road are almost always better with taller diff ratios.

I must say, I am still constantly surprised that there are people who think the R33 looks the best. I didn't think there was anyone who actually liked them.

If it were mine, I'd pitch the "uprated" ignitor along with the coils and just go Yaris (or any similar Denso) coil - so long as I was willing to go without the coil cover.....or just space the coil cover up perhaps. Or, if I were a bit more flush for cash, the R35 coil kit is the smartest move.

Can't tell if it's mechanical or an exhaust manifold leak from the video. Use a hose as a stethoscope to listen around the exhaust manifold and turbo gaskets. If not there, use same hose, or a screwdriver as stethoscope to listen around cam covers, timing cover, etc, to see if you can localise it. It could be worn tappets causing valve noise, or it could be your VCT solenoid or belt tensioner up the shit, or a number of other random possibilities.

Just run the rear pump stage through a power steering oil cooler out the front of the car and back to the header tank. Free win.

No, this is the Juke RS, not the Juke R (which was the GTR in a clown suit). I'd be sure that for the same money as a GTI (what they're claiming in that shitty article), you're only getting the asthmatic 4banger DI turbo with the boost wound up. This is just the clown suit, without the GTR parts.

You are warped. The R34 looks like a Skyline. The R33, barely so.

The thing is, he has the 4.1 ratio in the engine, and that is the harder one to change. Makes sense to keep that and put a new 4.1 centre in the rear, no?

Splitfires are direct swap, as I said in earlier post. You can get the right model for S1 RB25 (ie, needs and uses the igniter module on the back end of the head) or you can get the right model for the S2 RB25 (igniters are built into each coil). As the old Nissan igniter pack is old and prone to failure, it is worthwhile to consider using the S2 type even on an S1, but you would have to do some re-wiring - which is well documented on the interballs. None of those options requires an ECU change. However, running a standard RB25 ECU is dumb, so it should be changed just as a matter of principle. The pencil coil options I described are all available as kits with wiring adapters that just let you plug them in. I think they are all "with igniter", so wouldn't necessarily work on an S1 or RB20 or early 26 without deleting the original igniter. Again, no need to change the ECU for this, subject to what I said in above paragraph!

He said that, with no HICAS, you do not have speed sensitive steering. The HICAS CU is the box that provides the PWM modulated signal to the power steering rack solenoid to give you that variable assistance. S, what you have is fixed assistance.

Splitfires are ~AU$550 at JustJap, similar pricing on eBay. OEM coils are also available, for similar pricing. But I must point out a couple of things. 1) DO NOT, under any circumstances, buy cheap coils. The various other rainbow shades of coilpacks available will always lead to tears. They have poor reliability (compared to Splitfire & original). 2) Just taking the easy option and installing Splitfires (or any other same-format coil) these days is stupid. There are kits available to install Yaris (or other equivalent Toyota-Denso coils), Audi R8 coils, R35 GTR coils, etc etc. These are ALL modern pencil coils with much much more spark energy than the shitty old ones that use the original RB format. Some, like the Denso ones, are very cheap, but won't fit under the coil cover. Others, like the GTR coils, may fit under the coil cover, but will cost some more. If I had to replace my (Splitfires) - I would most certainly be doing pencil coils. Guaranteed. 2JZs use them and they don't need coilpack upgrades to support stupid power.