GTSBoy

$10k worth of discs? Where's the value? I'm assuming that they will be going back onto the Audi and not actually being used on the track, right? You do realise that all the Audi/Merc/Porsche owners with ceramic brakes take them off for track work, or even for street work, then put them back on to sell the car with?

Hi beams not working is more likely to be the dash/column switch. And yes, Nissan will stock the fuses. Might not be fun to pay for though.

People stopped using Nolathane about a million years ago......

They are all alloy engine, that produce 254kw as base. Nismo racing in Super Gt series opt for this motor over the Nissan Gtr VR38DETT.....OH YES YOU CAN MAKE IT FIT. Sorry, was thinking VH with the iron block thingo. But nevertheless, 254kW from 4.5L is not strong. VQ37VHR makes essentially the same stick from just over 80% of the capacity.

well if you going to make such an effort. Why not a VK45DE. Well, now we're talking about choosing between a much more modern all alloy V6 that is more likely to fit into the engine bay, or a vintage all iron low performance V8 that is likely to be too long, too heavy, too wide.......

Just ring Kelfords. Abandon that shitty Poncam stuff.

It's pretty clearly leaking from the o-ring under the edge of the tank. Bin it and buy a new one.

I said "radio/air-con surround". The removable dash trim that goes around all the stuff in the centre of the dash. As to where the temp sensor connects to.....if you can see the hose and sensor in the top right corner of the pats image you posted, and can see a spot on your climate control/heater module where a ~1/2" plastic hose would connect, then that's where it goes. It is quite likely that it is the connection in your first photo.....but let's face it, how am I going to have a mental image of what that looks like 1/2 stripped apart. I've only ever seen it looking at it upside down with everything still installed. As to the hot air.....either the climate control computer can't cope with having half of its inputs (ie the internal temp sensor) not connected or the hot water tap is stuck open. Either of these are quite likely. As to whether you can ever make the system work again....who's to say? Just about any little or large part of it might be broken or missing, including wiring. All we can do is wish you luck.

There's a small slotted vent in the dash. The image you show is for R32. The vent is in the lower right of the radio/air-con surround on those. The temp sensor is in a plastic fitting behind that, connected to a hose that goes back to that inlet on the A/C. You can see it in the top right corner of your first image. 27054M. 27621E. The wiring loom to the sensor is not shown.

There's no difference in the application. For all intents and purposes, once you take the twins off a 26, the turbo to make any given power level is essentially the same thing on either engine.

Next size down is GTX3076. GTX turbos work best at high pressure ratios, so you might even be better off with a non-GTX (ie, GT). Or, you could go to Borg Warner's matchbot and play with selecting from their offerings. Likely cost more.

Congrats on getting a nice car with family history, etc etc. But, mid-80s Nissans are nothing to get carried away about, either as collector's items or show cars. You will be the belle of the ball at the Nissan Wierd Beards' annual meeting, but that's about it. None of them have more than $2.50 to spend on a car, so will expect to get yours and your stock of new-old stock spares for $1.25. The car is so old that getting odd body/trim/internal cosmetic parts for it will likely be a ball ache. Headlight protector? You talking about some aftermarket thing put on by old people? If so, piss off the other one and live happy. Mud flaps.....? The likelihood of ever seeing one that was specifically manufactured to suit that car is going to be zero. The manufacturers gave up on mid 80s cars about 20 years ago! Gear shift boot? You could try Nissan direct. Other than that you are looking at Amayama or the various other stockists of old new-old spares. If it were me, I would take it off and give it to a motor trimmer to reproduce. Take an afternoon at most.

Um....that seems obvious. It's not as if Deatschwerks are "developing" these injectors. The electro-mechanics are direct from the OEM and direct from the original development in the late 80s. The only thing that DW do is either abuse the shit out of them to make them flow heaps, or have a small fiddle with the nozzle openings. Meanwhile, Siemens, Bosch, et al, have been making improvements to every aspect of the way these things work for another 20 years. There have been, what, 3 new generations of Bosch injectors over that time? Maybe 4? We all know that EV14s are better than EV6s are better than the petrol pissers that were in 80s Nissans.

Side feed injectors STOPPED being developed a long time ago. Injector nozzles are better now than they used to be when the industry gave up on side feeds. Ergo, side feeds ARE shitty old tech, compared to the new hotness tech. How hard can this be to follow?

I would say that the benefits from waving a die grinder around in there will be unmeasureable. There may be some benefit to keeping the finish on the inside of the bend a bit rougher to hold on to the flow for longer, thus reducing separation and thereby using more of the cross section for actual flow. Luckily, this is he hardest bit to reach with a burr.....so, win. The runners are not small on a 25, so there's little point in trying to make them bigger. The single biggest benefit available would be to ensure a good port match, and even that advice would be subject to knowledge about how the port itself works and whether a small mismatch at the runner-port interface can actually help (which it sometimes can, to force flow to bias a little to one side or the other to set it up to make better use of the downstream port shape, short turn, etc). But I don't know, so am not going to say. And one very important thing for you all to remember. I cannot imagine any flow, at any point in an automotive intake tract that will not be fully developed turbulent flow with Re well above the minimum. Usually Re> several tens of thousands, even at low revs. The velocities involved are simply too high. And boost has nothing to do with it, because as the velocity goes down (because boost) then the density goes up at the same rate and they cancel each other's effect. You'd have to have the air velocity down into the single digit m/s range to even hope to get the Re below 10k. There is pretty much no such thing as "laminar flow" in any part of anything real. The best you can hope for is "well conditioned turbulent" flow, where the flow is fully turbulent, but it has had time in a straight duct to develop an even velocity profile

There would not be a very large number of people who would have attempted what you propose (just with the injectors, not the engine plan itself). Certainly not in recent years. These days, as Dose said above, good injectors are cheap, and also much much much better than shitty old side feeds.

Sympathy free zone here!

This thread keeps on delivering. . . . . . . Hand to hand.

You might need 12-20 injectors to get 6-8 flow matched units. It's not as if they "adjust" them to flow match them. Flow matching is just binning injectors with similar flow together.

Who gives a shit about what it looks like (unless you're frightened of VicPol)? The only thing that matters is how well it works. Singles work better than twins.

Is this a trick question? The standard answer here is go a big single. Any effort spent on putting shitty old twins onto a 26 is wasted effort.

You could do that, which is the sort of thing I meant by "depends on what you swap". Would seem stupid to put 10 year older alternator back in just to save having to do some wiring/termination changes. When I put RB25 Neo into my R32, we took the R34 loom an made the necessary changes to it to connect to the body side loom (you know, fuse box, starter, gearbox, etc) where there were differences, even before we pulled the RB20 out.

Depends on what you swap. Alternator wiring and other connections to body side looms will likely have differences. All the mechanical connections, mounted, etc, are same same I think.

Um....you can hardly blame Nistune for an R32 or Z32 ECU not necessarily wanting to work with an R33 TCU. Nistuned auto ECUs usually work fine in the parent car.

No. Literally the most sensible advice is to start the engine, let it run long enough to put the club lock behind your seat/fold up the sun screen/fasten your belt/look over your shoulder and then just drive away. It is what you do from that point on that matters. You don't rev it hard or load it up until it has some heat in it. You don't rev it really hard or give it lots of load until it is pretty much all the way up to normal temperature. So, in the context of how long that is in a Skyline, from cold, you drive it gently for the first few minutes, but you can use a bit of gas to get it onto the highway and you won't be leaning on it until you've been driving for at least 5-10 minutes. Letting a cold car idle for ages is not sensible. I let mine idle for a bit because I need to start it to get it out of its hole and put bags, etc in it, but it is only for a couple of minutes and it is still cold enough that I don't lean on it until I am well out onto the main road, a few km away.