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GTSBoy

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Everything posted by GTSBoy

  1. GTSBoy
    I'm in our US office this week. A day after saying unkind things about Porsches there has been a GT$ parked outside my window all day and I've had to pretend to ignore it. Lovely looking thing from behind. Back to the point at hand though.....Balance bar and 2 masters. Do it right. Pedal feel will be umpty bazzillion times better. There is no reason to expect the pedal effort to be too high if you get the pedal ratio and master/caliper piston sizes matched properly. This might take more than a guess to get right though.
  2. GTSBoy
    The drive pin on it only engages the boos in one orientation. You can't f**k it up. My advice is to remove it, stomp it to pieces, then fit the required HICAS eliminator kit.
  3. GTSBoy
    Man cars don't have boosters.
  4. GTSBoy
    It's a hot wire air flow meter. It works by running a current through a wire (or a transistor) and monitoring the temperature of that wire (or transistor). Then the current is controlled up and down to maintain the temperature of the sensing element. Heat is lost to the air flowing past the element based on the mass flow rate of air. More air flow = more heat loss -- more current required to maintain the temperature. In a turbo inlet position, the air is at atmospheric pressure, so is moving faster for any given mass flow rate. In an IC pipe, the air (at high flow rates) is at whatever the boost pressure is. Higher pressure = lower velocity for any given pipe size. Could be double or triple the density of atmospheric air. Regardless of what the pressure is though, the local air mass flow rate past the sensing element is what the AFM is reading. More air = more blah blah blah, as above.
  5. GTSBoy
    Ideally the torque curve comes up to the "peak" value as early as possible and stays there, flat, until the redline. This is not usually completely achievable. On turbo engines especially, you don't get anywhere near peak torque until you have all the boost. And at the top end, as any air flow restrictions (ie turbine housing) start to take effect, torque will drop off. A completely flat torque curve gives you a linearly rising power curve. Turbo engines usually have a rather more savage arrival of both torque and power at the point where the boost arrives, meaning that the power curve is often very low and flat, followed by very steep, followed by a more linear section once boost is stable, followed by a drop off if the torque curve suffers as mentioned above.
  6. GTSBoy
    You don't need 4" pipe for the AFM sensor when it is post turbo. You only need 4" pipe when upstream the turbo so as to avoid creating restriction and hence low pressure at the turbo inlet. It will work (ie can be calibrated) in whatever size IC piping.
  7. GTSBoy
    It's heinously expensive though, for $500 worth of coils, a mounting plate and some different plug boots.
  8. GTSBoy
    Denso >> *
  9. GTSBoy
    Also keep in mind that a car trailer + R33 is unlikely to be within the legal towing weight limits. Plenty of people say "not a problem", but that's not what insurance companies say after you have a whoopsie.
  10. GTSBoy
    Assuming that the charts are not backwardly labelled or some other issue, then the power is flat because the torque curve is falling off. The engine is not making torque after 125 on the speed scale. If the problem is not in the tune (which would have to be timing) then it must be flow limited. The nasty wiggle in the AFR at 125 should be ironed out, but that's not a huge issue. In short, this is not a normal setup.
  11. GTSBoy
    Surely the R34 wiring diagrams are googlable?
  12. GTSBoy
    Well, obviously you need to bypass the resistor pack. Either do it manually or wimp out and buy a pre-built module.
  13. GTSBoy
    One is a square number, one is the same number as most people have fingers or toes. The other is prime.
  14. GTSBoy
    Genuine pain in the arse.
  15. GTSBoy
    Yaris coils or the ones from the ZZ motors in hot Corollas (& Celicas). They vary in some small details, like which way the plugs point. The right ones to get are the ones with the plugs horizontal, not angled up. Make sure they are Denso. Genuine Denso.
  16. GTSBoy
    You need 2 wires from the gearbox speed sender connected to the appropriate terminal(s) on the back of the dash. Presto. Use the wires that the auto used.
  17. GTSBoy
    Or twin EFRs. Just sayin'.
  18. GTSBoy
  19. GTSBoy
    The normal mechanism inside is a one way clutch type thing. If you pull on the belt hard, the force of the pull is enough to make the clutch lock (like a peg being jammed in a tooth on a sprocket) and that is your safety mechanism. It stops the belt being pulled out any further. Once they unlock they usually allow belt to move both ways. You may well have a little piece of something broken floating around in there, hence why I suggested turning it upside down or banging it again. The pre-tensioner is pyro-technic. They are single use. If it has fired then a) you should have noticed it and b) it would be a throwaway anyway. If you think you might need to plug it back in (and I can't imagine why, unless there is an electronic lock also) then all you have to do is get 3 or 4 lengths of wire to make a bodgy extension to get the 2 sets of pins in the 2 loom plugs to connect. Some alligator clips or whatever it takes to make the connections.
  20. GTSBoy
    You probably tipped it upside down and/or gave it a good bang and it's jammed. Take it back out and try to repeat or reverse the accidental step you performed last time.
  21. GTSBoy
    Congratulations on an excellent thread. Will read again. When it makes sense.
  22. GTSBoy
    Pics of dash? 1990 is not C33, is it? Earlier, cruder, R31-32 era stuff should be fairly easy to find.
  23. GTSBoy
    Yuh, keep in mind that the solenoid is the vent, not the restrictor. A fuel injector would be a vent, but it would be a small one, because I reckon that even a 2000cc injector would probably be a lot smaller vent than what opens up with a normal MAC valve etc. So you'd end up using the injector to apply boost onto the actuator, not to vent in association with a separate restrictor orifice.
  24. GTSBoy
    RB engines usually have broken exhaust manifold studs after they've been in service for a long while. Replacing them is an exercise, but normal enough. Put it this way, if you have to take the hot and cold sides off, it gives you an opportunity to inspect, clean and replace a lot of shit that can give you grief. It's not all bad.
  25. GTSBoy
    Makes sense. I've been sitting here wracking my brain trying to work out what would put a medium sized impedance on that line. had already discounted AFMs, on the assumption that you'd likely removed them to suit the new ECU. In input on another CU would be the right sort of impedance.
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