GTSBoy

OK. Let me know.

2 pieces of 4mm steel plate about 600 long, with some 25mm square bar welded across the underside half way along. Use them as ramps, with the square bar located across the bottom of the slope to fill the gap between the plate and the concrete. If that doesn't work, adjust length of plate or thickness of bar upwards, as required. Or, put coilovers up to practical height.

I pitch $450 delivered for the tyres.

Depends on what you want from it. For a street diff 1-way will be fine. For track, all the way to 2-way.

Don't be intent on buying a factory mech LSD. They are all a million years old. You'd be far better off looking for a Cusco, Kaaz, Nismo etc aftermarket centre in an R32/3 housing with 5 bolt stubs.

There are NO cars with R200 mechanical LSD with 5 bolt flanges. All 5 bolters were VLSD, therefore AIDS. All mech diffs were GTR 6 bolt. There is no difference in diff strength or stub axle strength between Skyline style 5 bolt diffs and Silvia style 3x2 bolt diffs. There is really no strength difference between the 5 bolt and 3x2 bolt driveshafts either. It's just the the CV joints on the 5 bolters are proper CV joints and on 3x2s they were only tripod style CVs, which are not as good. But Nissan thought they were good enough to put on a LOT of cars. The diff VLSD centre from say, and S13 turbo is the same as from say, am R32 turbo. The 3x2 and the 5 bolt stubs swap. The only difference is the CW&P gearing bolted into it. The GTR 6 bolt is not the same as the 3x2 (=6) bolt on the Silvia style (and NA Skyline) diffs. The GTR stubs are bigger, stronger, more splines. If you want a 5 bolt flanged mechanical diff, you are going to HAVE to buy one that has an aftermarket centre in it. You will not find an unopened Nissan diff that fits your bill. If you transplant a GTR diff in, you have to be aware that the GTR diffs used a CV joint style input on the tailshaft side, and (I think) the larger driveshafts really need you to swap to GTR uprights too.

What do you mean it's concerning? Point 1. If it's from an R33 then it's either 4.11 or 4.08. Unless you exactly exactly need it to be 4.11, 4.08 is close enough that it won't kill you. Point 2. The original R33 GTST LSD is not really an LSD. It is a viscous LSD, which is an LSD by name only, not buy function. It's function is to frustrate and depress anyone who has to drive a car equipped with it. Therefore, you need the diff to have been opened and potentially glooped up with silicone in order for someone to have installed a real LSD. I suggest you get the clown selling it to open it and send you photos of the numerical stampings on the crownwheel (to tell you the ratio) and a few photos of the pumpkin so you can see if it is open, nearly open (viscous) or a real diff.

What's really needed are dash vents. Both the front facing ones and the demister inserts. Oh, and inner door handle escutcheons.

Yellow Jackets are a lottery. Many more people have problems with them and the shitty red ones and the other rainbow types than with Splitfires. Old Splitfires eventually play up, just like OEM coils. YJ can play up on day 1. Fake Splitfires are a thing. All you have to do is make YJ equivalents and make them blue and put them in a fake box. It has happened and it will keep happening. And in the era of Yaris/Audi/R35 etc coils, it really doesn't matter. You can have coils that are twice as good for less $$ than a set of YJ anyway.

No, that's a completely normal GTSt or GTR headlight (depending on the mountings for the grille). You have parking lights on the outer, the normal (shitty) projector for low beam and the normal high beam in the inner position. The N1 headlight was simpler, replacing the projector with a plain reflector. If you look at these https://www.google.com.au/search?q=n1+headlights+r32 You will note that the outer reflector is very large. The parker globe must live in there somewhere too. The cheaper models of R32 had yet another headlight without the shitty projector, so more like the N1 headlight in only having reflectors. But not the same.

Given that after you take the circlips off you usually have a struggle to get the stubs out of the centre anyway....... Nevertheless, if it is actually loose enough to move in-out on its own, then it won't be good for the spline at the other end to possibly be belting into the hub.

OK, now you need to put up photos of the centre. If it's a 2-way, then it could be any of the possible brands (Nismo, Cusco, Kaaz, etc etc). But if it turns out to be a Nismo, then there's a good chance that you will have the Nismo stubs and they may well need a different circlip to the original ones.

What diff centre is in it? There aren't really any options other than the original stub axles for the original viscous diff centre. For Nismo diff centres, they have their own stubs that come with them. For most of the other aftermarket centres, they usually use the original stubs. I wouldn't have expected that you could fit anything from an R230 into an R200. The NA Z32s use an R200, no? In which case their stubs will either be very similar to R32 (if using viscous centres) or otherwise they will be equal length like on NA R32s, just with the 5 bolts instead of the 3x2. I will admit I'm not being really helpful here because I don't really know which bits are the same or not. Just pointing out the possibilities.

oh dear

E85 will help because of the longer pulse widths required. Atomisation won't really be any better, might even be a little worse (effectively) because E85 is less volatile than straight petrol.

It's not the size of the core. It's the end tanks and pipework that cost flow and increase pressure drop. The increased pressure drop reports to increased exhaust manifold pressure (from increased work required to drive the compressor) and thus limits how much boost turns into flow. Negatives feed on negatives.

Well, you chose your turbo. It's able to go to the upper end of your stated power range. But your fuel pump will maybe no get there and the intercooler will start to cost you. There is a whole lot of discussion on these very points in this very thread.

Walbro 255 is going to be marginal at those power levels. Look to an upgrade. Nistune BEFORE. Not after. Why use crappy old JECS injectors? Especially if you have to buy them! Go straight to the ~720cc unmodified EV14s for 98 octane use. These will be juuuuust large enough for E85, but injectors will be near 100% or you will need more fuel pressure. Of course you will also need a rail, but it is worth it to get away from those crappy old side-feeds. Blitz return flow will start to have high pressure drop by the time you reach the bottom of your power range.

Quaife front diff + Nismo 2-way at the rear.

Oh, yeah, it all makes sense. I'm just saying that there are reasons for the way things got done, and some of those reasons are less valid than they used to be. F'rigsample, I wouldn't buy 1000cc injectors if I could use say the native 725s + more base pressure with a decent speed controlled pump. Get better atomisation via more than one mechanism.

Neither the Z32 nor the S13 have the same stuff. The Z32 turbo is an R230 diff with big 6 stud flanges. So will not be the same. The S13 turbo is an R200 like the R32, but has 3x2 bolt flanges. But I think that the internals parts of the output shafts are same same, so C clips from one should suit the other.

Well, the main reason that various people have been keeping fuel pressures lower than ideal for atomisation is that many of the usual suspect fuel pumps don't maintain the same capacity as the pressures go up. Now that we have a wider selection of bigger pumps, people could choose to use more pressure again.

Depends on how far open the AAC valve is. If that was 90% open, to compensate for not having any base flow through the screw, then your idle control system won't have much scope to increase the idle when it really needs to. Unless you have big cams, you should consider controlling the idle speed back to ~600rpm. You will surprised how much fuel it saves if you spend time in traffic.

I reckon Dattoman or one of the other brake gurus back at PF posted very useful stuff about working it all out many years ago.

Check out the YouTube video from the MotiveDVD guys on the one in a GTR. Street drive.