Duncan

Interesting question...if your builder says not to go over 14psi and you go 20psi and it breaks, who pays to rebuild it? Boost isn't really the issue, and you tuner will be the expert for this. Timing is the key thing you can run more of on e85 because the biggest difference between it and pump 98 is resistance to knock Also keep in mind that a bigger turbo flows more air at the same boost, so boost alone is not a good yardstick.

BTW, I was reminded by another thread....and it is a bit unfair to have the old girl at a smash repair for such a milestone.. But, HAPPY 30TH BIRTHDAY!!! Poor girl could never have imagined what was in store for her future when she rolled off the production line all shiny in limited edition gun metal grey

well, there is a 30 year age difference....report back number of dash warnings when the Euro is 30 years old (or just 1 day after warranty)

well...I did say it wasn't plugged in....

You need to ask your engine builder this question, not the internet, because the internet won't be the people you argue with if it fails. You should also consider that you gauge may be inaccurate, you are best to hook up a mechanical gauge to check it. But yes, it looks low to me at idle and a little low at full revs, even for a factory pump. Most builds would use a higher flowing pump with a 100psi relief spring so they tend to run around 100psi at full noise.

yeah I had a set of seized injectors pissing me off last rebuild too. No e85, just a bit of moisture in the system somewhere along the line

Yeah I went next size up, the style that comes with it's own stand rather than bench mount....fits everything larger I've tried like plenum, engine covers, uprights And yes, Neil convinced me to pull mine apart and put sealing foam in years ago. absolute PITA job but it does seal properly now so I guess it was worth it.

yeah exactly. Neil went one step better when he escaped the big smoke, his only day job now seems to be flogging skyline bits on facebook (when it's up)

Gary is still around but not working in the industry any more. He still does suspension engineering on various race cars including any time I need something looked at (not often these days). I still run his revalved non-adjustable bilsteins in mine and the handling is great.

The race car and rural work is never the problem....problem is the day job that pays for the racecar takes up too much time!

yeah, even with the direct hose the clutch can be a bit of a pain to bleed, but at least it isn't impossible any more. you may need to let it gravity feed for a while to get some pedal feel

That is what the bishop said to the actress. Or, just the physical distinction between rb25 and rb20 boxes which have smaller/weaker gears

actually I need to ring the panel shop and see how bad the news is....last i heard they thought a boot floor and beaver (hehehe) panel were required... I do have a little wiring for the demister and rain light, and to assemble the new engine, but I did the weed spraying instead

more complete (well, accurate) version of that story https://www.ipraforum.com.au/viewtopic.php?t=3691

well, when whiteline sold their swaybar factory and moved manufacturing offshore, Gary (sydneykid) bought that business and equipment and was running it as Selby's, but that didn't work out. I am not sure if they still operate under that or a different name, the factory was around Minto NSW. a quick search found these guys who were apparently the original Selby's and are still manufacturing in Nowra NSW. https://www.signatureswaybars.com.au/ I have not used either business under current ownership

I've only ever used singles before including in the race car, but the twin feels light underfoot and holds the power it needs to.

Not plugging it in ......there's your problem!

I don't think you can treat a website rating as a guarantee, after all it is torque that challenges a clutch's holding ability not power. I am running a nismo coppermx twin in my 400awkw stagea with no issues.

great to hear it is running well, isn't it a great feeling when everything is behaving! also, good on Autopro, Raceworks and Penrite for giving you a hand

yes sorry, I don't have more specific advice, just an observation about the current market.

So I was only selling these as a set, but the guy who bought 4 and organised "someone else" to buy the other two let me down so I still have 2 only of these wheels. Perfect period wheel for a GTR, $1000 for the pair, sorry no donations

yeah they rust in pretty well over the years. Do you have access to get a blow torch onto it without burning the car down?

Don't listen to those guys. Get it the US ASAP, should be worth a heap there.

unless I'm mistaken, the tabs on the cap are not meant to line up, they stop it turning further when you twist it on? Re the bleeder, when you say it was leaking via the threads was this before or after you undid it to bleed. If the bleeder is blocked it will only leak via the threads which will also make it pretty much impossible to bleed as there is nothing stopping air being pulled back in. Pull it out and see if you can clean it, if not just replace it, any decent parts shop should be able to match it (no location on your profile so I can't advise better on that)

Thanks on behalf over everyone who will use these but never consider that someone put in the time to do them These copies are definitely much better than the ones in the pdf I do actually have the original originals that I could scan too, but as you described I don't really know the best way to deal with the very wide fold out pages. If anyone has suggestions on a way to get a better outcome let me know and I can give it a go.