Duncan

assuming there is no class rule requiring a dash, something simple in the centre console with sheet metal/carbon fibre sheet to hold any required gauges and switches is the go, plus something to mount the dash gauges if you need them. unless you are looking to win auto salon, you don't need to enclose the dash or have anything on the passenger side except the dash support bar or it's roll cage replacement. heating has never really been a problem in our car when you are wearing multi layer flame proof, but cooling is. I'm not sure that a fan would make much difference but if you have a way to keep it an switch just the fan on/off full that could help. We have a heated windscreen for defogging at rallies but at the track that is almost never an issue either; if you are fogging up just let it sit with windows open for a bit before going out and carry a clean rag somewhere. I removed but am replacing the rear demister circuit now because that is impossible to keep clear at rallies when driving between stages

I get wanting to keep the rb if you can, and I don't have any experience with how(if?) rb25de can make 220hp n/a. I assume it is possible with the right intake, exhaust and cams but of course pretty much no-one needs to get power out of these without a turbo so there won't be much experience around. the 25DE NEO head is the best of the range for breathing so it can support the flow you are looking for easily On the other hand, it can absolutely be reliable at that power level, they are designed for at least 50% more power in stock form so everything will is safely oversized like rods, bearings, oil flow etc etc. For oil pump I would still use a large aftermarket one like nitto on an extended crank collar for safety, and you will still need a large oversize sump. Depending on freedoms, you could look into the premade (or custom) adaptors to fit the 6 throttle bodies and plenum from rb26 to the 25 head which might help with throttle response unless the plenum is too large for 220hp Clearly downsides are it is heavy and long compared to more modern alloy v6 or I4 which is not good for corner weights, and no doubt those annoying k-series motors are more readily available there

what kind of father buys their child a Toyota!?!?!

I'm pretty sure you don't want to know what I think it is. Can you confirm the noise is not coming from the front of the motor, eg the alternator, air con etc?

yeah that sucks, I had been lucky for so long until about 3 months ago when skippy changed her mind and came back after I had missed her. At least daughter didn't have to deal with injured skippy. You know what would be a good, bigger replacement for a yaris for rural use? A well looked after Cima. Great value car for the price. https://www.tradeuniquecars.com.au/detail/nissan-cima-854038. Even comes with awesome plates

well, they'd still be on p1 if my website was up! One day I'll fix that...

Interesting question...if your builder says not to go over 14psi and you go 20psi and it breaks, who pays to rebuild it? Boost isn't really the issue, and you tuner will be the expert for this. Timing is the key thing you can run more of on e85 because the biggest difference between it and pump 98 is resistance to knock Also keep in mind that a bigger turbo flows more air at the same boost, so boost alone is not a good yardstick.

BTW, I was reminded by another thread....and it is a bit unfair to have the old girl at a smash repair for such a milestone.. But, HAPPY 30TH BIRTHDAY!!! Poor girl could never have imagined what was in store for her future when she rolled off the production line all shiny in limited edition gun metal grey

well, there is a 30 year age difference....report back number of dash warnings when the Euro is 30 years old (or just 1 day after warranty)

well...I did say it wasn't plugged in....

You need to ask your engine builder this question, not the internet, because the internet won't be the people you argue with if it fails. You should also consider that you gauge may be inaccurate, you are best to hook up a mechanical gauge to check it. But yes, it looks low to me at idle and a little low at full revs, even for a factory pump. Most builds would use a higher flowing pump with a 100psi relief spring so they tend to run around 100psi at full noise.

yeah I had a set of seized injectors pissing me off last rebuild too. No e85, just a bit of moisture in the system somewhere along the line

Yeah I went next size up, the style that comes with it's own stand rather than bench mount....fits everything larger I've tried like plenum, engine covers, uprights And yes, Neil convinced me to pull mine apart and put sealing foam in years ago. absolute PITA job but it does seal properly now so I guess it was worth it.

yeah exactly. Neil went one step better when he escaped the big smoke, his only day job now seems to be flogging skyline bits on facebook (when it's up)

Gary is still around but not working in the industry any more. He still does suspension engineering on various race cars including any time I need something looked at (not often these days). I still run his revalved non-adjustable bilsteins in mine and the handling is great.

The race car and rural work is never the problem....problem is the day job that pays for the racecar takes up too much time!

yeah, even with the direct hose the clutch can be a bit of a pain to bleed, but at least it isn't impossible any more. you may need to let it gravity feed for a while to get some pedal feel

That is what the bishop said to the actress. Or, just the physical distinction between rb25 and rb20 boxes which have smaller/weaker gears

actually I need to ring the panel shop and see how bad the news is....last i heard they thought a boot floor and beaver (hehehe) panel were required... I do have a little wiring for the demister and rain light, and to assemble the new engine, but I did the weed spraying instead

more complete (well, accurate) version of that story https://www.ipraforum.com.au/viewtopic.php?t=3691

well, when whiteline sold their swaybar factory and moved manufacturing offshore, Gary (sydneykid) bought that business and equipment and was running it as Selby's, but that didn't work out. I am not sure if they still operate under that or a different name, the factory was around Minto NSW. a quick search found these guys who were apparently the original Selby's and are still manufacturing in Nowra NSW. https://www.signatureswaybars.com.au/ I have not used either business under current ownership

I've only ever used singles before including in the race car, but the twin feels light underfoot and holds the power it needs to.

Not plugging it in ......there's your problem!

I don't think you can treat a website rating as a guarantee, after all it is torque that challenges a clutch's holding ability not power. I am running a nismo coppermx twin in my 400awkw stagea with no issues.

great to hear it is running well, isn't it a great feeling when everything is behaving! also, good on Autopro, Raceworks and Penrite for giving you a hand