Duncan

amayama. part numbers for r32 gtr from here: https://www.amayama.com/en/catalogs/nissan/skyline-gt-r/8-coupe-right-r32-1989-1662/5/428

To be fair, the starter motor has been in the same place for 30 years now ?

I haven't, but I understand it's a valid way to go for a budget rebuild. The skid factory guys covered resurfacing a block (not head) with a stone

A gearbox with worn synchros will have problems shifting gears, generally 4 to 5 is worst but it depends how the box has been treated over the years The faster you shift, the worse the crunch will be, potentially including missing the gear altogether. Short shifters help you physically move the gear selectors faster so yes they make the problem worse. The only proper fix is to pull the gearbox out and have they worn synchros replaced. In the meantime, redline lightweight gear oil (smurf's blood), nulon G70 (or whatever similar is available where you are, there is no location in your profile and you didn't say) or even just heavier oil generally can help

yes it absolutely would. And no, particular brands of tyres aren't shit, they all have better and worse/cheaper tyres in their range, and as tyres get older they harden and lose grip too So, I'd look at the performance end of any manufacturer's range, if you are looking for value someone like falken (eg FK510) is a good place because they have performance tyres but don't charge brand premium like michelin, dunlop, bridgestone etc Personally I've got dunlop dz102 on the stagea which are fine and dunlop sport maxx rt on leaf for road and occasional hillcimb use which are good, but there are a million opinions about performance tyres.

Excellent choice.

Right back to the start of the thread, I think you've just got a boost leak. Check all the big hose clamps between the airbox and the plenum including under the front bar, and also the medium sized stuff in the BOV fittings and their return line. Also check the BOV return (plastic) for big cracks. Potentially but less likely, you may have other smaller vacuum line problems

Big red arrow to square box is the factory MAP sensor, just runs the factory boost gauge. Small red arrow thing on the right is aftermarket but probably for aftermarket boost control. yes, green arrow should plug into back of manifold balance pipe, if it was off that is a problem. It is a crappy hose on a crappy fitting with no lip so it is easy to blow it off under boost, small cable tie can help

Its just a plastic or aluminium ring that takes up the gap between the hub and the wheel centres to locate the wheel when you put it on. The wheel studs do all the work holding the wheel in place. Yes, this could cause a vibration. In theory if your wheel nuts are tapered as most are the wheel will end up centered on the hub even without the right size wheel bore or hub rings, but if it is even slightly off the wheel will be offset to the centre of the hub and will not turn evenly leading to vibration that increases with speed.

honestly mate, the car is making pretty basic power levels and you aren't racing it. Modern synthetic (or even semi-synth) oils are excellent compared to the olden days for everything up to short sprint/race use. So chuck in any 10w40 or 5w40 synth you are happy with and save a fortune. Re temps, personally I'd be looking to keep it under 100, 110 and higher isn't a disaster but it does get hard on everything. Since you say you only drive in summer just add a medium sized oil cooler in good airflow and you should never have to think about it again. Plus, adding an oil cooler is cheaper than putting race oil in every 5000klm

Are you in Australia? No location in your profile and its not clear from your post. I just had the joy of sending 4x 18" wheels to japan, best quote was pack and send at about $950, UPS $1500, Fedex $2,214. Startrack and a couple of others refused to ship to Japan atm. The world of shipping has gone to shit, just like everything else, because there are no commercial planes flying where they can just chuck it in a corner of the hold. There are still dedicated cargo flights but way less capacity so prices are going up

I think you should prove the haters wrong. Please get underway and run a build thread on here so we can follow your progress.

Interesting, totally different part#. You need 92136-AA000, assuming that vin matches the system in the car. I picked the receiver dryer and sensor from Jesse Streeter in japan for 8899 and 6578yen respectively. Plus postage of course but that would be different to Sweden. Amayama has a listing for the R34 part, $46AUD so it must match something common locally for us.

w40 is fine for street use unless the rings are worn then you might want w50. I guess you already know this, but if it goes below 0 a bit you probably want 0w40 or 5w40 in cold months

funnily enough, I know W34 stagea is 92137-4P200 because i needed one last week (well, the whole receiver/dryer, but the pressure switch comes in it). R34 is likely to match but not certain If you post your car's VIN number we can look up the correct part. BTW if you put your location on your profile we could provide more specific advice

Handle for the passenger ejector seat. Some better pics would help me be sure.

Greddy have 2 sizes, standard and underdriven. I know this because I spent a frustrating weekend fitting a second set to the race car to discover both the alternator and power steer pulleys were standard size not underdriven as I wanted. Yes, the alternator charges about .1 volt lower. No impact I've seen. The PS underdriven PS pulley is 140mm across compared to 130mm across factory (7% underdriven) and the (hicas removed) steering is heavy but nice. I've been running the original set for 15 years and they have lasted well. The annodising is long gone from the belt drive ribs but as they are ally that is no issue. Having said that, I have never heard of someone having trouble with the standard pulleys either. All I can see for the standard size, aftermarket pulleys is they look a lot nicer.

Well, it's worth that but I'm not sure there are many people that will pay for a pre-built engine. Pretty much everyone wants to do it themselves so they know the claimed parts are in there, and that the machining is right.

Thanks for hosting it Petri ?

sounds like that should provide sufficient power for an older chassis. which engine/ecu loom are you running? generally it would match the head as that is where most sensors are. A powerFC will be the cheapest aftermarket ECU to run it, about $800AUD. Depending on which loom you are running, nistune may be even cheaper. If you want something fully featured (not that those options can't run the car well), haltech and link both have easy options to suit with base maps to start tuning from

Links on their way!

Yep, and second prize is 2 of them

Depends how much work and how hands on you are. "Shell" can mean a lot of different things, from bare (metal with paint) to everything except and engine. Finding things it doesn't come in can end up mega expensive depending on how many things are missing (wiring looms, brake lines, brakes, dash, interior trims, seals, seats, belts etc etc) I think it's going to be a tough journey

Wow...big project to take on if you aren't confident with wiring....lucky you didn't have to drive it to work today ? Best guess is the ECU doesn't have power. Presumably the fuel pump doesn't prime either. But to actually work it out I'd go methodically from the start by checking there is battery power going into the key switch, and that the key switch is working OK (ie, the switch side gives continuity between BAT and ACC in ACC, BAT, ACC and IGN in IGN and BAT and Start in Start.) Next step take ECU out out and check there is BAT where there should be, then IGN where there should be (I don't think ECU uses ACC, but check that too if it does). Keep in mind, in rb25/26 (not sure about RB20 but probably the same) the ECU turns itself on and off by earthing a pin on the ECCS relay, that is the next place to check (ECCS relay earth is turned on by ECU, relay has power supply)

I'm assuming "line pressure solenoid valve (dropping resistor)" was google's translation of that wire? It should terminate at a 2 pin plug just in front of the strut tower. I am 99% sure that is the factory boost control solenoid and therefore probably not required as you almost always have a separate boost control system, either standalone or inside an aftermarket ECU. I don't have a pic of the plug because mine is removed