Duncan

almost certainly because nissan runs a global aluminium casting factory in melbourne

lol I'm not exactly sure this will count as an upgrade....but I love a left field project....good luck!

well that was an interesting exercise, this is what I learned: some businesses only deal with people who have facebook accounts some wrap businesses don't respond to sales inquiries 2 that did both quoted over $6k to wrap the car. Both took more than 2 weeks to respond. So in summary, the cima is staying black

good driving in horrible conditions there, well done

whoa good searching. rb26 is m12x1.25

Welcome Krzys...are they a common sight in the UK or as rare as unicorns?

lol very old thread. I suspect your rear brakes aren't locking, and you are feeling something else. rears locking first lead to a very distinctive feeling of leaving the track backwards, or having to work very fast to correct it before it loops. On the other hand feeling light or squirmy at the rear under the brakes is pretty common on these cars. They are way heavier at the front and under brakes if you run softer springs (and I prefer that) then a lot of weight shifts and the rear can get light. Some people like it, some don't. I find it helps point the car into the apex in slower corners, I someone else's evo who runs even softer than I do I found it really disconcerting in long fast corners. Anyway, that was a bit rambling, but the point is it was unlikely to be locked brakes and rather just a light rear end. Go harder on the rear springs and shocks and see if it feels more stable. Also, it can be exacerbated by suspension bush or balljoint problems in the rear, in particular hicas ball joints if they are still in place.

By far the most likely cause is someone trying to fill the gearbox through the shifter.....

I get that you probably think everyone is not being that helpful, but basically everyone deals with this sort of issue in the same way. Its actually the body that is in the wrong place compared to the wheels, so you fix where the body is. It is perfectly normal for medium to high caster to rub on the inner guard liner, it is fixed by removing the inner guard liner. after that it will hit the lip on the guard which you fix with a guard roller (or hammer if you prefer...) after that it will hit where the front bumper joins the guard which requires angle grinder on the guard and bumper and holding it on some less intrusive way like drift spec cable tie stitches after that you are trying to get too much camber for a stock body, time to change the uprights and control arms.

umm can't really answer that. the bolts imply it is a push clutch (assuming that's where the slave was). If you want to convert to pull you use the 2 bolt holes on the other side of the dust cover, and change the front cover, fork, release bearing and carrier as listed above what we really need is a pic inside the bellhousing which must be possible because no engine attached....

lol thanks for the inspiration but I was thinking a liiiiiiiiiiiiiitle more low key

Thanks Brett, I got in contact with those guys AND they responded. happy days. Matt thanks for the feedback, that's exactly the sort of info I was looking for. Do you know what brand of vinyl was used in either/both? With the race car there has been a massive difference between the good quality stuff (avery) and ebay special stuff. The cheap stuff has gone bad in less than a year while I've had avery vinyl on there for 7 years which is still OK. I understand 3m is the stuff to go for in wraps. I put about 50,000klm a year on the cima so 4 years life would be a good outcome, it will be about half a million klm by then. And it's going to be living outdoors for a couple of years while we build again for sure

well the most is a billion and the least is 0 (or some loss of power).....but more information is required to be helpful. changing the computer will just let you modify the tune from what the factory set it to. what mods do you currently have, and what are you thinking about changing over the next couple of years?

unless it is a problem you should return the clutch and get a push type one. there are push/pull clutch converters or you can change the gearbox back to pull with a bit of work, but by far the easiest is getting the right clutch. BTW as sick_r31 said your car should be pull type clutch if it is a 94, so something has happened changed it left the factory or you have the wrong build year

great to hear it is sorted properly and an easy fix. don't worry about the temp until it is north of 100. the warmer they are they better they run, particularly in modern engines. and score 1 point to Calln to guessing correctly

Thanks for the extra option. Actually i haven't got this sorted yet and want to move it along, but since I'm not on facebook and no wrap companies exist outside facebook it looks like check-mate! If anyone knows a reputable wrapper who owns a phone I'd be happy to give them a go....

a common and unexpected clunker is the shock top mounts, particularly if you either re-used the factory ones with your new coilovers, and also if they are new but are rose joint type they can start clunking surprisingly quickly. also, it can simply be a loose nut on a joint that causes the clunk without anything being wrong bush-wise, so check them all. BTW do you think it is front or rear clunk. rear clunk would most commonly be subframe or diff bushes

Interested in the impact that 15o has on fuel, I found no solid information last time I looked around. What temp should fuel be, what happens as it gets hotter, and what is too hot?

Are you sure that is not aftermarket? Your pic looks like a standard 33 series 2 bar with the nismo extensions, but I've not seen the lower lip part before....

29 minutes to MDTC, 34 to Wakie......hello sleep ins! (yes Eastern Creek is further away now, but who can afford to go there?!)

so anyway, the next (actually final) big job of the reco is painting the interior and fixing the exterior. And no I'm not trying DIY, I've done that before (on the nugget) and it looked really shit. I'm not trying to make a showcar but I do want it tidied up. so back out with everything in the interior, wiring, seatbelt mounts and eye bolts, boot release, gear shift etc, looking really empty, again Next up is vaccum then wipe down with wax and grease remover, then tape up and ship it off to the painter. Also need to remove all the stickers, even the ones that have been on there for 10 years and will pull the paint off because I'm getting them to clean up the outside as well I decided to move onto the painting now, because in big news for us, we've bought a place outside Sydney near Goulburn and are selling our current place over the next few months. I really needed the car rolling and OK to move so I decided to get it ready for painting instead of trying to spend weeks on the ECU.

well, I made a little progress. first up I worked out an issue with the ECU wiring; basically IGN signal in a 32 goes from the key to the DS firewall grommet to the front engine bay fuse box to the stock boost controller (of all things), around the front of the engine bay, along the strut tower, through the PS firewall grommet and into the ECU. All of which would be fine if I hand't assumed that only the boost controller used that source in my car now and wired it to the boost controller switch. So for now boost has to be on either high or low for the ECU to receive the IGN signal and start up properly. So that got the powerfc behaving properly, but despite some further stuffing around the car still doesn't start. I then plugged the haltech back in (properly this time) to check everything there (it shows way more inputs and sensors) but I still couldn't work out the issue and decided to give up and take it to someone who knows what they are looking at. I expect to post up again afterwards saying I was out of fuel or something stupid like that. Anyway, so I focused on the next step instead, getting the car rolling again. Wheels are on, brakes working, everything tightened up (oh except the front driveshafts, and all the ball joints which I better remember....). She's back on the ground, rolling, and godzilla approves

Generically, yes, any ECU will add more fuel when the car is cold than when it is warm. If you have a tunable ECU you could take fuel out at about 62 because that will be "warm" for your engine. Standard thermostat and tune will expect 76o

Well, it won't make it explode into a ball of flame or anything. But the car will run colder than it is meant to which means the ECU will make it run richer = more fuel use and to a lesser extent more fuel contamination of oil. The standard thermostat is fine for street cars. Running a colder (or no) thermostat is really just a bandaid for a cooling system with some other problem....in any case once the thermostat is fully open the temp is determined by whether the cooling system can remove the same or more heat as the engine is putting in.

well yes, normally when it only gets hot when moving slowly or idling you would suspect fan; but clutch fans are pretty reliable and are always going to turn somewhat when the engine does (unlike thermo fans which can be not running at all due to wiring, fuse, relay etc). It could be the fan's clutch but normally they fail the other way (ie always on, making it very noisey even at idle) In this case it may simply be a blocked radiator or similar where the lack of airflow through the radiator is showing up the issue