Duncan

Bendix pads don't squeal, in fact no pads squeal. It always comes down to installation (cleanness, anti-squeal shims, copper grease, chamfer pads, bedding in pad and disc) But you can change to something else if you like

600hp (330awkw) is pretty straightforward and should not require anything special....as Bob said just follow the well worn route. Even if you want 600hp atw (450kw) it's well within the ability of the combo on e85 with the right turbo

By far the bet bang for your buck is to start with sway bars, they are about 200 per end and you will really notice the difference.

I think relays generally end up in the boot, but that's not the best way to do it because you have to run both the trigger wire and the 12v feed through the length of the car....if you mount it up front you will only have to run the 12v through the car and + trigger, -trigger and the 12v feed can all be short.

can't remember how visible they were....mine were lost when the screen cracked and was replaced.....

yeah definitely the cold pack, the fog lights are part of that too. that switch should work like your rear demister, when you choose it the light should come on, and it will turn off after a few minutes. If the windscreen has ever been replaced it almost certainly won't have the heater elements any more. It just heats the area under the parked windscreen wipers so they are not frozen on if you try to use them. Cold pack includes Heated rear view mirrors Windscreen wiper heater Front and rear fog lights (rear replaces one reversing light, and results in everyone stopping you in carparks to tell you that you have a reversing light out....)

Any idea if 32 GTR is the same, as I've got one of those.....if you are not sure pm me your vin and I can check if the part is the same

looks great overall, but I'm really worried about how that brake master cylinder replacement is going to work.....it's moved it to the wrong side of the car

fine for road use without a cooler...but it will overflow like crazy if you do track work without one

oh yes BTW I did have one and it started leaking after a couple of years. replaced it with a just jap one which is going strong.

personally I would not go PWR again, too many stories on here and elsewhere of premature failure which they blame on using the "wrong" coolant and reject warranty claims. And yet somehow, every other brand of radiator is cheaper but doesn't have this magical wrong coolant allergy?

Totally agree, they've done a few gearboxes and diffs for my over the years, definitely know their shit

The standard sensor is 0-5v but I've never seen the calibration for it to confirm if its the same as the generic one Haltech uses....most likely it is the same or sufficiently similar (considering you don't exactly get an exact reading from the stock gauge.....) In any case your oil pump doesn't damage your pressure sender.....time and 000s of klm of vibration do. They are a reasonably common failure, just replace the standard one....in your case I'd go second hand if you intend to go aftermarket ECU soon anyway

so if it happens with road speed not revs, you have something loose between the clutch and the road. So gearbox internal (unlikely), tailshaft (likely if you've never replaced the joints), diff (possible), driveshaft (probable), or even wheel not attached properly (loose wheel nuts, spacers installed incorrectly etc). Jack up the right rear, handbrake off and turn the tyre to see if it can narrow down the clunk. Or take it to a mechanic, this sort of stuff is very easy on a hoist.

Yeah both Mark and I ran them for years back when we had to use standard size sumps for circuit racing and targa. The rubber never showed any issue, there are many other rubber parts like seals in the oil system

Yeah I loved that, reminded me of the milk sign at Oran Park....I was sure I had scraped the paint on 3 occasions (twice at forrest elbow and once at Reid Park) during the race but no evidence when I got back to the pits so it never happened. I enjoy the blind apexes etc where you just have to turn in at the right place and trust physics.....

I think very few have used a recessed MC, it is a lot harder to do and not really necessary because all it does is add a clutch booster....they are fine without. Mine is a 34 MC and bolted straight on (although like Bob I have tight clearance in the engine bay and a FFP) I can't remember any tricks internally (drill through and bolt in) but can take some pics if you have something specific you want to check out?

wow that 2nd link is not a triumph in communications best practice. But as I understand it the only change is a loosening of restrictions once you have historic/club rego in place. So you still need to go through the rego steps with a club.

I don't know anyone who has kept the footbrake on a manual conversion.....not saying it may not be possible but a handbrake is the easy way to go

lol 11 years ago. there is nothing stopping SAU offering historic/club rego as we are an officially registered car club. when I originally looked into it the key requirements were minimum 5 people who would maintain their rego, and an authorised inspection station being willing to do the inspections for us. no huge deal, but under the rules 10 years ago the cars had to be certified as standard, or standard with period options only. also of course, there are restrictions on how you can use the car.

surely that is the only one (or r33 or r32) that actually just bolts on

good work pete, I heard you did well outright too. see you at grafton to find out if you can beat the leaf.

funnily enough, it was actually the relay in a 32 gts4 recently, but that had totally different symptoms.....the pump ran even when the car was turned off (because the relay's power source is battery direct not via IGN or ACC) so it flattened the battery very quickly. the clicking on and off regularly is most likely to be the accumulator or pressure switch because it turns on to refill the accumulator (either because it leaks or because the pressure switch thinks it is not full)

or be nicer on the clutch when you launch it? may not be anything wrong with it for regular use....

actually I was just poking around under mine today, and I have a black box with lots of wires between the fuse box and the driver's kick panel, its a kind of super interior box which beeps, does central locking etc etc. why do you think the problem is under the dash. do you know what the error code actually is?