Duncan

Shame to hear that...but you're right, a race car gathering dust is no use to anyone. Whoever picks this up is getting a great deal

Good to see this one moving along Dave. Not sure if you can change the title, just let me know what you want it changed to...

And I would definitely source the oil pump gasket, who wants a leak there? Nissan or I think some of the aftermarket VRS kits have them

That's exactly the problem for me. If I could see proof that the tyre life/degradation will be x% slower or y% better grip for example, I could decide how much it is worth paying for the service. At the moment all the claims are unsubstantiated by any specific figures, let alone proven in some sort of study

Awesome, that makes perfect sense, thanks

because...I just double checked, there is a 10a feed from the tail light fuse which goes to the output of the relay, ie it may be trying to draw the whole high beam current through the tail light circuit with no relay in place. resulting in your car burning down.

lol, so all 3 worked relay-less.....odd. Nissan aren't in the habit of doing stupid stuff for no reason can I ask a small clarifying question....did you turn the low beams off before flicking the high beams? Thanks for helping

I'll bet there is....but you won't wont to hear what it costs on top the tyre's cost. I like Gordon Leven's style....lots of claims, no guarantee about actual outcomes for the money you spend. http://www.gordonleven.com/zapped4racing/about/

lol yeah, vice within a vice. and demonstrating that I need something better than sockets as pressing tools

OK, so Neil dropped by to help mount the various new toys around the car, but I got so damn sick of his complaining "there's shit f**king everywhere in this garage" so we put some stuff back together instead. Actually, since everything is shiny and new (or at least just shiny), it mostly went together pretty quickly. Biggest issue of course was not having anything the right sized pieces to press in the large bushes, in the end the rear subframe ones had to wait rear arms all have bushes and ball joints (except the LCA inner where it turns out whiteline have 2 parts listed, and I got the wrong one...) rear hubs back together. Neil had to do these since he's the only one old enough to remember drum brakes (and carburettors too, whatever they are) front suspension all ready to go with new bearings, ball joints and bushes.

Can someone with a (working, or at least wired up ) R32 do a quick test for me? I'm reworking the wiring in the racecar, but funnily enough the headlights are the most complex part in the car.... Under the bonnet in the fuse/relay box is a brown relay labelled H/LAMP. Disconnect that relay (unplug it from its loom below). Then, try 1. Low beam headlights should work 2. High beam headlights on should work 3. Flick high beams should not work. The wiring for the headlight switches is crazy complex for my little brain, so I just want to check my understanding that the relay only controls high beam flicking.

As long as you like! Basically whatever balancing was needed with the old paint will be different to what the new ones need, so no point putting the old ones back on. As for how long you can wait, it depends how long you can handle it.....pretty much luck about how well balanced they are, or are not, with the new paint. If there is a vibration when you drive get them balanced again

Good to hear, I haven't used them myself, I was just going off my experience with other soft tyres In that case, bang them on any corner, have fun until lunch, then check them for rotation for the afternoon. I'd always put the best tyres on the most loaded point which is front left at wakie....you can always control the amount of rear wheel work with your foot....

hahah don't worry I'll be happy to have them go to a good home Speaking of wiring, can someone with a (working, or at least wired up ) R32 do a quick test for me? Under the bonnet in the fuse/relay box is a brown relay labeld H/LAMP. Disconnect that relay (unplug it from its loom below). Then, try 1. Low beam headlights should work 2. High beam headlights on should work 3. Flick high beams should not work. The wiring for the headlight switches is crazy complex for my little brain, so I just want to check my understanding that the relay only controls high beam flicking.

actually there are a bunch of good quality gauges that need a new home....I'll post up when they are ready to go. Even better if someone is putting them in a track car because they come pre mounted and pre wired in a carbon fibre centre panel. Individual gauges were OK but I definitely should have made the move to a single dash long ago with how I use the car.

bloody hell mate, 8. That is mind bending.

haha I think the opposite....if you take softs to a track day at wakefield in December you will destroy them. probably in the first session. so it doesn't matter which one goes on which corner keep those for hillclimbs or super sprints, and go and buy a set of medium or hard tyres instead.

Sticker machines are cheap (<$500) and so is the vinyl. Its the time to cut, weed and distribute that is the issue, you'd need a volunteer who has a reliable 4-8 hours per week to do it.

Hi Bigbob and welcome to SAU. Almost certainly your only option is to buy a 2nd hand replacement from a wreck, check gumtree, ebay or wreckers (in order of price ) eg http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/WRECKING-1990-R31-NISSAN-SKYLINE-MANY-PARTS-AVAILABLE-/321903415081?hash=item4af2f04f29:g:VVkAAOSwo0JWLfao BTW R31 Stageas are awesome.

I'm also in NSW, I had the ones on my Stagea rebuilt after about 100,000klm of use. I had the springs changed at the same time so I can't say what made the change, but it rides more smoothly now despite the high spring rates. I think because shocks wear so slowly its hard to tell when they are getting tired. I used Heasmans in Sydney. Very expensive but top quality work and attention to detail.

Well said, welcome

Hi mate I just checked the garage but I don't seem to have one. I'd suggest giving Darron at Just Jap a call, they are a Tomei dealer and bring in full, new engines.

lol not really....and poor old stagea is sleeping outside....there are gtr bits absolutely everywhere

fking A. BTW you got any tips on mounting the Haltech

so, how the hell will I live without all those gauges and wires? Coasty Luke at Haltec sorted some new toys for me: realistically I should have done this long ago; combined data logging and display of data and warnings in one comparably simple system. Allows me to remove all the gauges and just go back to the single dash. I guess over the years I added one gauge after another (usually after some problem that I couldn't detect) until I ended up with the mess I had previously.