Mitcho_7

Anyone know if the trojan motorsport guys are on holidays or have shut up shop or what? I have tried ringing them a couple times a day for the past week or so and cant get a hold of them. My computer wont even log onto the website either, I just get an error message. The number i used to call them was 6242 6277 which I got out of the whitepages and then confirmed with a couple of different websites through google. Any info on the topic would be great!

a mate and myself are gonna have a decent go at sorting everything out on the weekend but if i still cant get it sorted i think i will take it to a mechanic and get them to stuff around with it. Do you think i will need a new gasket between the turbo and dump, even though this one is only a couple of weeks old?

I figured the hole will need expanding a little bit, but I dont have a die grinder. Is that something a car garage would have on hand. Im pretty sure the exhaust is stainless steel and the flnage is pretty think, so trying to use a drill is probably out of the question I take it?

Ok, so i finally got a new exhaust to turbo bolt and went to put it in, but when the bolt goes through the bole in the dumppipe flange it doesnt quite line up with the hole in the turbo flange. So if i try to bolt it in its going to get cross threaded and snap which will put me back to square one. The other 5 bolts/ studs and locknuts go in fine except this one at the top. Its a JJR split front/dumppipe which is meant to fit straight on. How do i go about getting this bolt to fit in? I cant return the exhaust to just jap as i have driven with it, not knowing the the top hole didnt line up directly with the turbo flange. I want to get it fixed as soon as possible because the sound is starting to get a bit louder and more constant.

so i still cant find any exhaust leak around the dump pipe and i can now hear the sound when im going along in any gear above about 3k rpm. Its not so much a flutter now, i dont really now how to explain what it sounds like...

does anywhere besides ESP tune emanage ultimates in canberra?

had a look at the dump this afternoon and it doesnt seem to be leaking from there. I sprayed a bit of nifti on the gasket and it didnt buble. Plus every single bolt/ locknut is as tight as it will go except for the missing one which is one of the middle bolts.

I have owned the car for about 10 months, so its not new. It has the stock bypass valve so i would have thought that when you back off the throttle the bypass valve would open rather then causing the flutter from air going back through the turbo? however my knowlegde isnt the greatest on the subject. Ithink i have just noticed the sound recently because of the fact that i havent been driving it like i normally do because of the missing bolt in the dump. I cant really say if it increases with rpm because once they revs get a little higher it sort of drowns the other sounds out, but it may still be there. When looking for a leak should i just spray something on the area where the dump bolts on to the back of the turbo and see if it bubbles when the throttle is open a bit? thanks for your help so far

Essentially, my car is making a slight fluttering sound on light throttle when accelerating. I notice it mostly in 2nd and 3rd between about 30-60 km/h. According to the aftermarket boost gauge, the car is not on boost when i can hear the sound (but you can hear the pod is starting to suck in air and the turbo is starting to spool though). The needle sits between about -10 and 0 when i can hear it. It might still happen when the car is on boost but i cant hear it because of the turbo spooling/ pod filter suction working a lot more. The car is pretty much stock except for a full exhaust, gutted cat and pod filter with heatshield and stock airbox snorkel. It has the mod to select between between 5 and 7 psi boost with a switch. Recently installed a new split front/dump pipe and it is currently missing a bolt because one of them snapped when removing the the stock dump and the new one hast arrived. Have been driving the car lightly like this for a bit over a week and the sound was not occuring before about 2 days ago. Other info i though may be relevant is the engine, gearbox and diff oils were all recently replaced. Engine oil is motul 8100 5w40, gearbox is redline mt90 and diff is redline 75w90 gear oil. Im one of those types that doesnt likeit when my car makes a sforeign sound that it hasnt made before, but i dont posses enough knowledge to be able to properly determine what the cause might be. Im sort of worried that the sound might be something to do with the tubro and its about to shit the bed or something. Does anybody have any ideas as to what the sound might be or am i making a big deal out of nothing? Thanks

Hey guys, Just after an apexi power fc preferably with the hand controller, to suit an r33 gtst s2. Let me know what you have. Thanks

stock exhausts are usually pretty obvious IMO, because they are always quite small diameter/resctricted looking and have the heat protection insulation stuff around them.

hey, Do you have a set of 6 coil packs to suit a 96 r33 gtst series 2 in stock? If so how much posted to canberra? PM me the details on price and how to pay etc. thanks

i didnt put any air in the tyres or anything like that. The steering wasnt super heavy, like you could still do it with one hand, but it was considerably heavier before. I will try unplugging the cable next time i go for a drive and see if it makes a difference.

I think I actually preferred it a little heavier, but I guess that just because I was used to it. Im going to get a wheel alignment soon, so ill get them t have a quick look over the steering while they have it just to make sure theres nothing major going on.Does anyone else have any idea as to what might have caused the steering to go light all of a sudden?

nah, the hicas light comes on with startup but goes out again straight away which it has always done and im pretty sure thats whats meant to happen.

hey, I jacked up and serviced my car yesterday and installed a pod filter and cold air box and put a new front/dump pipe amongst general servicing stuff. When i put the car back down and took it for a drive the steering all of a sudden became heaps lighter. My mate and I serviced it and im pretty sure neither of us touched anything to do with the power steering as all we did was disconnect the bottle on the left of the air box to install the cold air box and pod. We did the fuel filter, oil filter, diff and gearbox oil put in the new exhaust and i cant work out why the steering got heaps lighter. I dont have the greastest knowledge of cars so i dont know my way around the engine bay too well.The only thing i can think of that might have done anything was there was some wires unclipped down near (possibly under) the oil filter that were disconnected and i connected them back up. I have no idea if those wires had anything to do with the power steering but i figured i would ask people who have more knowledge about the subject and see if there is an answer to why the steering became lighter. thanks

Im having a very difficult time trying to track down the 6 bolts (not sure if they are all bolts or if the bottom 2 are studs with locknuts) that attach the dump/front pipe onto the back of the turbo for a 96 r33 gtst s2. Im pretty sure i know the part number im after and have rung the nissan dealer in canberra, but they said it will be $10 per bolt and theyll take 2 weeks+ to get here which i cant really wait for. Anybody have these lying around or know of anyone wrecking a r33 skyline gtst or any shop that would have the bolts on hand ? thanks, Mitch

hey, any chance you have the bolts and locknuts that attach the dump/frontpipe onto the turbo, there should be 6 of them... Im not 100% sure they are all bolts but i know at least 4 of them are. let me know

ok thanks for the replies, im all sorted on engine, gearbox and diff oils but still not 100% on which coolant i should get? Also is there a how to somewhere which outlines the the ins and outs of changing the radiator fluid in an r33 gtst?

engine seems in pretty good condition, no misses or any major drops in power through any gears. No track days planned, just use it as a daily driver and plan to go to about 200kw in the next 6 months...

Hey Guys, Im relatively new to the forums and I have had a bit of a search about what seems to be the best sort of oil to use in in the engine, diff and gearbox and which radiator coolant to use but havent really come up with a concrete answer. I have owned my pretty much stock (except for a catback) 96' S2 R33 gtst for about 6 months and its due for a service plus i want to change a few things. Because im not sure of the previous service history besides knowing the timining belt was replaced about 2000km before I got the car. For peace of mind I figured it would be good to: Replace engine oil and new oil filter, change gearbox oil, change diff oil, new spark plugs, new fuel filter, put injector cleaner in the car, install pod filter and heat shield and put in a split front/dump pipe and get a hi flow cat. I want to change all this stuff myself (have a reasonably competent mate to help) and have found a few how to guides etc on here which are really helpful, but the one thing that I couldnt find was a concrete answer on what fluids to use in the radiator, engine, diff and gearbox. I know for the engine i want something 100% synthetic and i was thinking of going Motul 8100 X-Max Engine Oil (Is this a good choice?) but as for the gearbox oil, diff oil and radiator coolant I have no idea. So i guess my question is what brand and weight oil do you guys use in your engines, gearboxes and diffs and which radiator coolant you use? Approx price and which auto stores in canberra stock it would also be appreciated as well! Thanks

does it come with all the other bits and pieces to install it and the adaptor to suit and r33 gtst?

I bought my r33 with a fmic, turbo back exhaust and covered pod and this mod had already been done, with a switch in the cabin. I just want to know how i can make the higher level boost go to 10psi by flicking the switch? Will i need a higher rated actuator spring such as the yellow one in this link? http://www.nengun.com/trust-greddy/wastegate-replacement-parts I wanna be able to have two different boost levels that i can run with the flick of a switch from inside the cabin. Would i just be better off to get an electronic boost controller?

any chance you have a dash mat to suit the r33 s2 or and uncut front reo bar?

how much posted to canberra for the uncut r33 s2 front reo bar?