Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

lol... you want past experience?

Wait until the officer drives off and then pull the defect sticker off right away OR as soon as you get home.

Then just sticky tape it on once it dries (or just wipe the glue off and tape it on). It's only illegal to not display it... Says nothing about taking it off and immediately re-affixing so it's not a massive pain in the ass later!

That's true experience for ya :merli:

Lol I did this, except in front of the cop, I had tape with me and he said its fine lol

Yeh went into hillside after finding it lol that moved back from burwood hwy. They can't fit me in soon is the problem. Email and rang EPA for extension but I just would rather get it cleared asap.

It's for an R33 GTST out of curiosity what difference does that make? different hangars or something for exhaust?

Edited by jukic.j

Hanger points are the same gtst to gtr. Only difficulty you may find is trying to fit a gtst specific exhaust onto a gtr because as we have found out trying to put my super drager onto grants R the curve of the rear section isn't designed to clear the subframe brace so it fouls against it.

I believe it's that hangers/points where it attaches that are different, but I could be wrong about this. I have a 33gtst full stock exhaust you could possibly borrow mate?

34/33 (non gtr) have the same 4 hanger points.

just some minor differences in the muffler and pipe itself.

Ah the Hume Camera's have been on since Aug, so probably caught speeding then come processing time - system realises it was suspended.

That is amusing failboat at it's best

Yup came with a speeding fine too. whatta fail

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

now i've got question which i cant seem to get a straight answer for.

can i notch castor rod mounts ( think of s13 ones, they bolt up to the rad support and chassis rails under the engine bay) as in cut a section out and weld in a bit of thick angle or C channel to clear something ?

kinda like this

==========\ /=======|

..........................\/..................| <----- side view

====================

( couldn't center it with out the full stops)

called up some auto engineers off the vic roads site and cant get a straight answer and my rwc guy is away sick

thanks

Edited by Dan_J

lol Nik, love it - and i do agree given the "level of effort" factor. :thumbsup:

Slightly not so simple answer:

No - without VASS approval.
Conditional Yes - with VASS approval (Engineers Cert) - but you MUST talk to them BEFORE doing it to understand their requirements.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
    • Do you have some data like fuel pressure? It's really hard to say if you're still fighting a fuel system issue at this point. Could be something weird like the FPCM dipping out.
    • Yeah in that case, pulling the dent out. Event a very slight dent can create a lot of work filler-wise and there is a strong chance the panel won't be the factory shape when you are done (as the dent will result in a new high point created somewhere, then everything is brought up to that new high point... but the panel shouldn't be that high if that makes sense).  So you've filled and primed the panel and it is flat, why would you go back and remove the primer and add more filler? 
    • Something else I have been faffing with while the car was off the road is making the AC work. Assuming the car isn't at a thermal limit the idea of having AC while waiting in line to go on track sounds delightful. I have actually been lugging around the weight of the entire system since 2018 when the RB25NEO went in without it working at all.  The main reason was in the first few events before I got around to re-gassing it the rubber hose that runs under the manifold had the factory heat wrap/sleeve fail resulting in this: ~2 years ago I purchased a complete used R32 AC line set but when I finally went to install it the line i needed was different where the expansion section is I found a local place that was able to replace the rubber section and re-crimp. They also added some modern heat sleeve to the hose Tight fit but fingers crossed this is the last physical piece of the puzzle needed
    • the top black section is bonded to the silver section with some form of rubber. I assume to isolated NVH from the box
×
×
  • Create New...