Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Short answer was also based on little sleep in a foreign country.

The difficulty is the component you want to modify is considered a suspension component. Suspension components generally are not allowed to be modified at all. This includes welding/bending/cutting/ etc.

The reason for this is the impact/shock loading on the component will require analysis and the OEM have already completed this and strengthened this area up if it was prone to failure. By you cutting and welding in a new section, you are changing the specification and strength and in turn affecting the performance under load. This will make it prone to failure.

VASS Engineers will ask for receipts if you fit aftermarket components, so they can shift blame to the component manufacturer when you kill yourself and your parents are trying to sue the engineer. That's kind of loosely what they do, but they also have to calculate the component strength if it is modified. This takes time and requires many calculations/analysis and therefore you pay for this with an engineers certificate...

Thanks for the reply guys

as i called around i picked up some info and basically got the go ahead from at least one guy saying that i wont even need an engineers for it and if needed he will pass it easily or a new bracket made up from RHS as i happened to ask that too

you cant modify suspension components at all ( cut n weld ) but as the castor rod mount is just a bracket that bolts up i've been told that i can .

wht510,

you seem to have decent info, do you work around auto engineers or such. no chance you've mistaken the bracket for a suspension component as i'm told its fine as its just a bracket ?

Edited by Dan_J

Yes, you are right. Again refer back to previous post..,. Little sleep and foreign country makes it difficult to think!

If you were going to modify the castor rod, then no, if you were going to modify the bracket it bolts on to, then you may be OK. Depends on your mad fabrication skillz and whether or not you actually do a good job. Again, what R31Nismo administrator dude suggested is correct, speak to your engineer before you do it and get his/her/it's approval, and you should be laughing.

RWC, if you may it look factory, they wont even notice...

  • 1 month later...

Interesting experience with a defect notice recently..

Cleared it before the suspension of rego deadline, then got a letter a couple of days later (still before deadline) saying I had not complied with the notice and so they would be suspending my rego.

Called vicroads and the lady on the phone said they issued the letter as I had not cleared the defect within the one week deadline (after which time you cannot drive the car). I told her that this did not constitute non-compliance as I did not drive the car after that time, and cleared the defect prior to the suspension of rego deadline. She did not seem to understand this.

Does this make sense to anyone else? They have issued instructions and then purported to penalise me for complying with them

  • 2 months later...

hey guys, not sure if anyone has mentioned the hole people make below the washer bottle for the fmic pipe yet. any views on that one?

Don't really know what you want to know about it. you haven't made that clear. It's illegal if you have airbags I believe because it's a monocoque chassis and it changes the crumple zone and how that affects the airbag deployment. If you are thinking about cutting a hole, don't. If you have the hole already, get a return flow inter-cooler setup and weld that hole shut. If you get caught it needs engineering among other expensive things.

No need for cutting holes these days, there are many return flow options out there. I have been doing custom piping for many of the Melbourne guys, s14/15, 32-34's and c34 stagea if you have a local fabricator they should be able to whip up something legal like this... Keep the stock airbox and you are good to go.

post-63525-0-42424500-1372764310_thumb.jpg

hey guys, not sure if anyone has mentioned the hole people make below the washer bottle for the fmic pipe yet. any views on that one?

It's been mentioned, many times.

It's illegal in any car that came with an AIRBAG.

  • 2 months later...

ok, thanks a lot guys.

just moved from nsw and unfamiliar with local rules, bought one with the hole cut without even thinking about it and kicking myself for doing so.

  • 5 weeks later...

hey. trying to get a RWC at the moment. all easy stuff they have picked up except for one thing im not sure of

when you turn the high beams on the low beams turn off. is that normal? if not any idea what the issue is?

when you turn the high beams on the low beams turn off. is that normal? if not any idea what the issue is?

My R33 turns off the low beams when you've put on the high beams,,, I thought this was normal?

Are you saying that your car is keeping both high beams on and low beams on at the same time?

  • 2 weeks later...

Yes.

The OEM design has factored in the clearance from the calliper to the wheel under "normal" operating conditions.

So for example the following events occur all at the same time:

1. Wheel bearing is lose but still drivable and still to specifications.

2. Flex of the calliper is at maximum due to temperature and the driver pushing hard on the brake pedal under an emergency stop.

3. Cornering force as the driver does a maximum "G" corner acting on the stub axle/wheel/bearings/strut or knuckle etc.

4. Hitting a small pot hole while doing all of the above.

So I would find other cars with factory clearance of your particular car and replicate that. Otherwise you need to consult an VASS approve Engineer and ask them.

I can't remember the minimum clearance, but from memory it's approx 5mm from the face of the caliper, and the edge is similar. If the wheel moves more than that, then you are stuffed anyway and the clearance from the calliper to wheel isn't going to make any difference!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...