Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Add Blah_blah's result. this is from his newly rebuilt RB25det Neo motor working with a large ATR43G4 internally gated bolton turbocharger. It has came a long way of diagnostics and trouble shooting, the end result is:

1016452_629246753806662_1236021066_n.jpg

Car:

R34 GT-T

Hypergear 3582 Tubo

3inch Tbe exhaust

Return flow intercooler

New 460 l/h Walbro fuel pump

Bosch Ev14 ID 1000 injectors

Nistune

Rebuilt engine

Standard fuel rail and regulator

1622751_804351736245854_1333795786_n.jpg

E85 is no more responsive than 98 from my experience. It can allow you to run a smaller turbo for more power with better response though, if that's what you mean...

Nah I must have been misreading stuff because I thought it would also help with response.

Maybe you're getting it mixed up with fatter midrange as you can really pump timing into it at max torque compared to 98RON which knocks when you're generous with the timing.

Add Blah_blah's result. this is from his newly rebuilt RB25det Neo motor working with a large ATR43G4 internally gated bolton turbocharger. It has came a long way of diagnostics and trouble shooting, the end result is:

...

Car:

R34 GT-T

Hypergear 3582 Tubo

3inch Tbe exhaust

Return flow intercooler

New 460 l/h Walbro fuel pump

Bosch Ev14 ID 1000 injectors

Nistune

Rebuilt engine

Standard fuel rail and regulator

382 rwkw, whoa! Well done!!

Do I spot a standard airbox as well? If so, that's unbelievable.

The lower reading is with air box lid on. I've been told having the lid cause a lose of 3psi of boost.

Been working on my new SR turbo this weekend. Knowing the .64 might be restrictive up top, how ever I still want to keep it for its response, so I've grind down a larger exhaust wheel to suit the T28 bearing housing. Below is still the SS1.5 now running a much larger rear.

frontused.JPG

I have also bored out the internal gate to 36mm and used an large 38mm internal wastegate.

rearlarger.JPG

Its currently installed, response wise feel similar to the original version. How ever in upper top range it no longer feels like hitting a brick wall. I'm hopping to maintain the maximum compressor efficiency with lot less boost, while improve mid top range torque.

Holy shit, that GTT is going to be handful on the road! What a crazy result.

It puts on about 250kw in around 1500rpm (3500rpm-5000rpm)....wow....

Me rikee :)

Also, is that loop a pedal or wheelspin?

I'm pretty sure the car is very good to drive.

With the ATR28SS1.5, The overall diameter of the wheel don't necessarily mean it will be laggy, it depending on how much area is provided and the velocity of air when its expanded.

The diameter of the new turbine is 65mm, which is the largest I can possibly fit into that turbine housing. How ever I've grind down the inducer blade height that maintains air velocity when it entering the inducer blade of the turbine wheel, larger exducer blade area creates greater centripetal force, How ever becomes restrictive at high engine rpms. So I have left extra length creating greater exducing area in combination of a large 38mm internal gate.

In fourth gear its making the same amount of boost per RPM on paper so it should be very close to how the original SS15 turbine performs in terms of response. I'm looking forward to the dyno day.

I smsed cat for a time, still waiting for her reply. Hopefully next week. The VCT gear is so hard to find, I bought a 2nd hand one and its noisy as. Nissan Australian wants $960 each with no stock. I ended up bought one brand new from US for $720 delivered. Funny thing is I originally bought a S14 thought there would be heaps of VCT SRs around because they were Australian delivered, but till now every single SR person came in has either a S13 SR or VCT cancelled SR using cam gears. Since my original results are all based on the way it is, I prefer getting the best possible results I could, before applying VCT and E85.

I'm pretty sure the car is very good to drive.

With the ATR28SS1.5, The overall diameter of the wheel don't necessarily mean it will be laggy, it depending on how much area is provided and the velocity of air when its expanded.

The diameter of the new turbine is 65mm, which is the largest I can possibly fit into that turbine housing. How ever I've grind down the inducer blade height that maintains air velocity when it entering the inducer blade of the turbine wheel, larger exducer blade area creates greater centripetal force, How ever becomes restrictive at high engine rpms. So I have left extra length creating greater exducing area in combination of a large 38mm internal gate.

In fourth gear its making the same amount of boost per RPM on paper so it should be very close to how the original SS15 turbine performs in terms of response. I'm looking forward to the dyno day.

I'm sure it's good to drive but to go from a '90s GTI Swift to GTS HSV in 1500rpm would make for an interesting time on the road. 450nm in 1500rpm, too! I imagine traction is a premium when the foot is to the floor. I'd love to see some footage of it on the road or track :)

Similar to my 490rwkws run. When saying fun to drive its more of a "serious fun" at a different level. Its not like smaller turbochargers that runs out of torque at high speed. It pulls like a train over 200km/L in 5th, It feels like the air resistance is tearing every single panel of the car apart, surroundings rushing backwards, a little bit of wind or a tinny bump on the road could send it air born, Not mentioning speed doing 365 degrees turns. If my tyre popes I would be dead :w00t: .

Holy shit, that GTT is going to be handful on the road! What a crazy result.

It puts on about 250kw in around 1500rpm (3500rpm-5000rpm)....wow....

Me rikee :)

Also, is that loop a pedal or wheelspin?

382 rwkw, whoa! Well done!!

Do I spot a standard airbox as well? If so, that's unbelievable.

from 3500 to 4500 looks a little scary

Thanks guys!

Didn't know this was posted till Scotty let me know

Its actually not that scary to drive, can't say I have lost traction once the tyres are warm

It made about 350rwkw with the standard airbox in with a dirty filter.

385rwkw was on a safe tune and boost.

Theres about another 20rwkw in the tune and another 6psi of boost once I 'run in' the car of a while

I found myself comparing your result to 34 GeeTeeTee's result with the FP HTA 3076, and while yours "looks" laggier for the power made (385 vs 391) I was initially disappointed until I realised the 3076 result is running 28-24psi boost vs 22 falling down to 18.

Will be very interesting to see how it operates with more boost wound into it. I'm keen to try mine. Stao please send it to OTR ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes the gear for the R33/34 is different, it is red and has a different number of teeth. My part didn't come with that gear though, so I don't know how many teeth are on the red one. You'd have to reuse the 260RS/R33 gear, as long as it's not destroyed.   Haha, as unfortunate as that might be it was working fine for about the first 1500km I've had the car for now.
    • Update all   thanks to the workshop manual, it lead me back to checking fuses as mentioned central locking and door open lights worked when acc was switched on. diagram attached shows two points of power 1. ACC and 2.  Batt with the later being fused (#28) I did check the fuses using a multimeter but I must have stuffed that up also. Went back and checked the batt fuse in interior fuse box and you wouldn’t believe it… a blown fuse. replaced fuse and everything is now working as it should including the climate control   thank you all with your positive insight and knowledge.    
    • Where is the warning "That this thread is super old"   I just went into a 5 year old thread, went to do a reply, and couldn't see anywhere obvious a warning of it being super old
    • Duncan is correct. Pitwork (and Toyota's own cheap brand "Drive Joy") were primarily created as brands to sell other manufacturers car parts. It would be weird if Nissan sold parts for Toyota vehicles with a Nissan logo on it, so they created Pitwork to sell parts for other brans Toyota, Honda etc. They are not the same as Nissan genuine parts, although they *do* meet Nissan's standards for replacement parts. They aren't supposed to be a substitute for genuine parts, but a cheaper alternative that is better than Ebay fake parts from you-know-where.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, much easier to work with it now it's free!  
×
×
  • Create New...