Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You could be retarded like me and buy a standalone ECU for the gearbox..

Or be like my current better half who just learned to drive manual

Ur right dose pipe you can pigy back tho has to b a good stand alone tho i did hear you can use a r34 computer and go nistune to how true this is im unsure

R34 like S2 Stagea has a different plug. People usually just get something like a Greddy Emanage, HKS F Con or even a Link and interrupt the appropriate wires.

Adaptronic e420d are cheaper in the long run and Tao has the best price in Australia. Msg Tao and ask him how much.

The greddy is old tech and you need to buy a whole lot of add ons to get to where the adaptronic is.

Tao, my early 2012 SS2 appears to have done a compressor seal. When I pressurized the manifold it leaked out almost the whole way round the seal.

What's it gonna cost to fix that and any upgrades you would recommend?

The seals in turbos steel C clips. They are not an liquid tight seals. Unless there are measurable back n forward play, those seals won't wear, and if its also not leaking when the engine is running its most likely to be alright.

Most of turbo drain system relays on gravity. When crank case pressure is applied, oil will be forced out of both compressor and turbine seals.

If there is an measurable back n forward play it would require an rebuild. Assume all it needs is an bearing kit, I will charge you $100 to carry out.

The current SS2 is very different to what it was, it makes a lot more power without losing response, specially for externally gated application. But that will require a new build and I'm happy to look after you on the pricing.

Ah good, there is no play in it, just weeping air out the seal when compressor was pressurized. Wasn't leaking enough to hear but could see when spraying soapy water on it.

Found 7 boost leaks and 1 vacuum leak on the car so hopefully it's a completely different beast now.

Thanks for the offer but I'm quite happy with its performance and will stick with it.

Edit- and the crankcase circuit wasn't pressurized so the oil seals are fine :)

Alrighty update time, I've installed the new revised SS2 with the Ceramic Ball Bearing CHRA... and... holy fuark me it's amazing.

I was too lazy to touch up the tune but it's rich enough to be thrashed *cough* I mean tested lol.

I'm now able to get nearly 1.4 bar in 2nd gear! where with the old circa 2012 SS2 it would barely get 1.2 bar in 2nd. In 3rd shit just gets silly, I'm getting nearly all 1.6bar in around 4200rpm according to the inaccurate OEM tachometer.

I'll plug in the laptop for some logs soon for those data junkies.

A few things with the new CHRA, it's so much easier to install as you're able to bolt up the turbo without needing to remove the front cover like the old SS2. However the turbo sits lower so I need to cut my dump and weld it back up also the oil return need a slight bend to line up other than that it's nearly plug and play.

  • Like 2

Drifting video from Jason.F's R31 Wagon. This particular project has a very unique CBB turbo build on getting most reponsive 320rwkws out of none VVTI 1JZ. It has been a challenge dealing with back pressure and took a few try to get working.

  • Like 4

Alrighty update time, I've installed the new revised SS2 with the Ceramic Ball Bearing CHRA... and... holy fuark me it's amazing.

I was too lazy to touch up the tune but it's rich enough to be thrashed *cough* I mean tested lol.

I'm now able to get nearly 1.4 bar in 2nd gear! where with the old circa 2012 SS2 it would barely get 1.2 bar in 2nd. In 3rd shit just gets silly, I'm getting nearly all 1.6bar in around 4200rpm according to the inaccurate OEM tachometer.

I'll plug in the laptop for some logs soon for those data junkies.

A few things with the new CHRA, it's so much easier to install as you're able to bolt up the turbo without needing to remove the front cover like the old SS2. However the turbo sits lower so I need to cut my dump and weld it back up also the oil return need a slight bend to line up other than that it's nearly plug and play.

Sounds awesome, glad someones havin some fun...

Vids of skids and teh su.. su.. su.. sututututuutut...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...