Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Payment cleared yesterday, sent yesterday, received today, can't describe how impressed I am with the turn-over time. Can't wait to install them tomorrow and will hopefully (fingers crossed) be writing very positive feedback sometime this week.

Cheers!!

This.

Also want to say a massive thanks to you, as now i have my car for the long weekend !

& for saving me $600 on my mechanic's price for OEM nissan items !

rofl.gif

  • Replies 217
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

This.

Also want to say a massive thanks to you, as now i have my car for the long weekend !

& for saving me $600 on my mechanic's price for OEM nissan items !

rofl.gif

No probs at all :cheers:

  • 1 month later...

Yoyo

I sent a email using your website but i thought i would post in here aswell.

I bought some coil packs for my r34 in september, and 1 has failed on me.

Was wondering what i can do to get it replaced?

im running a stock coilpack in place of it at the moment.

Yoyo

I sent a email using your website but i thought i would post in here aswell.

I bought some coil packs for my r34 in september, and 1 has failed on me.

Was wondering what i can do to get it replaced?

im running a stock coilpack in place of it at the moment.

Email sent. :cheers:

  • 1 month later...

hey,

Do you have a set of 6 coil packs to suit a 96 r33 gtst series 2 in stock?

If so how much posted to canberra? PM me the details on price and how to pay etc.

thanks

hey,

Do you have a set of 6 coil packs to suit a 96 r33 gtst series 2 in stock?

If so how much posted to canberra? PM me the details on price and how to pay etc.

thanks

Ive got heaps in stock. Price is $410 delivered via express post. PM sent. :cheers:

  • 1 month later...

Hey,

I'm after a set for 2000 R34 Gtt can you pm me if you have any sets available and details on how to order

Thanks

You can order from my site here - http://performance-wise.com/userimages/procart28.htm

The part you number you need is YJ-RB2025-N and I have heaps in stock and will send via express post.

PM sent :cheers:

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...

Hi Paul, regretfully one of my spit fire coils has died. I realise my warranty period has expired as I purchased them three years to the day.... In saying that my car has had limited Km's on them 9523 km's to be exact. I would hope they should last a lot longer than that! Up until now these have performed beautifully every bit as good as the pricier (competitors name withheld)ones I was tempted to purchase initially.

My car is a Nissan Turbo Stagea 04/97 model, rock stock & never been boosted /raced etc....I will if requested send the dead unit to you for R&D or clarification.

Hopefully you could arrange some sort of refund/exchange or discount on a replacement of this failed unit as I would hate to have to go with another brand.

Sorry for the long post & hope to here favourable feed back from you or your customer service dept.

Cheers Shane

Hi Paul, you might not necessarily be the best person to ask as you are selling the product ;) , but i was wondering what are the symptoms of needing the coils replaced? My 97 R33 GTS-T in certain situations is having a problem with jerky acceleration. I particularly notice it in 3rd gear going up a hill about 55-60km/h and trying to gently accelerate. Sorta feels like the car is pulling back if that makes sense.

My mechanic said he suspects the coils, as they have done a number of other things to try and fix it, with it only partly improving.

Appreciate your thoughts?

Thanks

Hi Paul, you might not necessarily be the best person to ask as you are selling the product ;) , but i was wondering what are the symptoms of needing the coils replaced? My 97 R33 GTS-T in certain situations is having a problem with jerky acceleration. I particularly notice it in 3rd gear going up a hill about 55-60km/h and trying to gently accelerate. Sorta feels like the car is pulling back if that makes sense.

My mechanic said he suspects the coils, as they have done a number of other things to try and fix it, with it only partly improving.

Appreciate your thoughts?

Thanks

Heres a check list which should help:

- Ensure that the coils are mounted and plugged in properly and the rubber boots are seated correctly.

- Check the springs inside the coils are contacting with the plugs correctly.

- Wiring loom may be faulty,

- Spark Plugs may need replacing.

- CAS (crank angle sensor) may be faulty,

If it is a faulty coil then heres a way of testing them:

Keep the car idling and disconnect the coil packs 1 by 1. When there's no noticable change with a particular one unplugged, you've possibly found the faulty one.

Now swap it with a known working coil then go back and try the above method again. If the same coil pack is missing, you've confirmed it's dodgy,

If you have noticed slight improvements when trying to fix the coils then I suspect that it is your coils.

Hope this info helps.

Thanks mate, that is indeed helpful. Will give it a go, and let you know if i need to buy some new ones off ya.

  • 2 weeks later...

Just put an order through for a set for R33 series 2 :cheers:

Thanks very much. I will express post them out to you first thing tomorrow morning. :cheers:




  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...