Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

picked up my new ecu a few days ago. already tuned for basic mods, (similar to wat i have), so have installed nd car runs well. going to get spark plugs, injectors, coil packs, fuel pump, nd FMIC, possible Turbo soon nd then get it all tuned properly. see how i go.

1327206274[/url]' post='6199288']

finished the E-manage harness today....nearly time for more POWER again!

just in time hey... couldn't be shown up by a piece of glass!

Pic of the shiny new intake pipe...

post-34363-0-85842700-1327387376_thumb.jpg

Also pulled the Nismo dash out and reseated it. A LOT easier once you remove the indicator and wiper stalks.

Tried to install the cruise control. Unfortunately someone previously has tried to remove the air bag bolts and snapped the head off the right hand side bolt (closest to drivers door). Hopefully good old dad to the rescue either tomorrow night or Thursday morning, to get an easy out onto it and remove it.

Hopefully after that fit the cruise control on Thursday, and do the very exciting job of replacing the wiper blades on the weekend. Might even wash it!

It does bolt to the factory snorkle, so not a huge difference. Will look at going 3" straight through as the next step. Won't max out ID1000s, and with a MAP sensor, what AFM cut? :nyaanyaa:

NSW and VIC await dyno results from Radelaide!

Just in time for our next dyno run!

Who has the HP and is not a dyno queen(AKA Aaron)

VIC on E85 ?

NSW on BP 98(maybe one run on Sunoko GT+) ?

SA on PFFFTTTTT!.....bu bu bu bahhhhh!!!!!

WA cannot find a tuner :(

QLD....anyone heard from them!!! :P

ACT.....thing do move slowly in the public service!

NT.....I know there's one up there...maybe!

TAS.....stop chasing your sister!

lolz

Edited by Jetwreck

Going for the most powerful turbo converted PNM35 in the northside of Sydney.... am I a chance?

Actually that would make a good thread - most powerful C34/RS260/NM35/PM35 - dyno charts and mods

Then some slips from teh 1/4 too...

Then some track times around some of our tracks.

Thoughts, or has it been done?

Well started clening up the shed today ready for the start tomorow. S1 stag s2 rb25 out, neo 25 in with my old goodies attached and a smattering of new ones for good measure and at the same time auto is coming out and the gtr box going in, all fun and games

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
    • The BES920 is like the Toyota Camrys of coffee machines. E61 group head is cool, however the time requirements for home use makes it less desirable. The Toyota Camry coffee machine runs twin boilers and also PID temp control, some say it produces coffees as good as an E61 group head machine.
    • And yes with a full tank it will hit limiter free revving or driving 6B6CDF6E-4094-426D-A9CB-6C553475FE36.mp4
    • One way of putting the fuel surge idea to rest, is that even when in neutral/clutch in or free revving it still has the same issue, it can’t even get to limiter (7800) so to me that says it can’t be g force, I’m not trying to argue I just want to find the f&$king issue 😡
×
×
  • Create New...