Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I notice the handling more with these than with the sway bars.

Yes ive run just sway bars, just braces, both brace and bars and just front sway bar. (Whiteline, superpro & unnamed adjustable front bar). So this isnt just a 'ive thrown the bars on and thats the answer it should be' kinda answer.

Just got the chance to finally take the 35 out following the 2nd 2nd brace install. Very impressed with the way the rear of the car is now tight in and out of cornering. Noticed more traction and control delivery and almost nil body roll. Very happy

  • Like 1

Todays job was replacing the rear door. (As you can see by the photos nissan dont paint the section where the rear door hinges are so rush accumulates). For all those saying you are 'no rust' i doubt it.1e5c2fa9f60418ff66a2acf10bae28cc.jpg7dd3648b027635b73edb3f7dd2d27b8f.jpge77a1a16705966f3e1f3345bfd7379e6.jpgc6c464692f9397b71e0499339b67cca8.jpg8310ae655b28e1b304b101156e3812bd.jpg457cc47d2c220e2c3ff8a98e4cd1a400.jpg

You should cut out the electric lock, button switch , and rear wiper motor and keep for spares.

I have a spare tailgate, I think you have to cut the composite to get to them.

Edited by conan7772
added info
You should cut out the electric lock, button switch , and rear wiper motor and keep for spares.

I have a spare tailgate, I think you have to cut the composite to get to them.

I currently have up for sale the spare rear glass, latch motor, door button, hatch seal rubber & latch motor control box. Far ahead of you.

And no you dont need to cut anything to get them out. Just undo the bolts and get them on the right angles and they will come out. I also plan on deleting the rear wiper just need to find a delete plug im happy with.

Did this a few months ago but only just getting around to posting. Is it just me that gets lazy during winter?

Started with a cracked radiator which I tried and failed to fix with J-B Weld to try and keep me on the road.

2016-05-22 22.40.23.jpg

Radiator was way past it's used by date so I got a thicker factory replacement.

2016-05-22 22.40.04.jpg

2016-05-25 17.23.42.jpg

While the coolant was drained I thought I'd have a crack at my own take on the coolant bypass mod.

2016-05-25 18.06.37.jpg2016-05-25 19.19.41.jpg

2016-05-25 19.33.30.jpg

A few joins but no leaks so far after a few months. Summer will be the big test.

 

  • Like 3

Used my sucker to go pick up the latest toy purchase other day.

I love my Stag.  Fast and versatile!

 

IMAG0377.jpg

IMAG0378.jpg

  • Like 4
15 hours ago, datmoo said:

Did this a few months ago but only just getting around to posting. Is it just me that gets lazy during winter?

Started with a cracked radiator which I tried and failed to fix with J-B Weld to try and keep me on the road.

 

Radiator was way past it's used by date so I got a thicker factory replacement.

 

2016-05-25 17.23.42.jpg

While the coolant was drained I thought I'd have a crack at my own take on the coolant bypass mod.

 

WTF is that how thin these Radiators are? The factory replacement, is that from Scotty?

8 hours ago, Cowboy1600 said:

Used my sucker to go pick up the latest toy purchase other day.

I love my Stag.  Fast and versatile!

 

IMAG0377.jpg

IMAG0378.jpg

Love it, what sort of condition is it in? Good ones are pretty much impossible to find these days

9 hours ago, Cowboy1600 said:

Used my sucker to go pick up the latest toy purchase other day.

I love my Stag.  Fast and versatile!

Awesome to see another 1600 saved! Maybe we should start up a Stagea and 1600 owners forum. I think there's a few of us out there.

  • Like 2
2 hours ago, Duncan said:

Love it, what sort of condition is it in? Good ones are pretty much impossible to find these days

Really good condition.  Very little rust.  I thought it must have been resto'ed at some point in it's life but the guy I bought it from has owned it for over 30 years and it hasn't been.

It's got an L20 running straight LPG and a T03.  5 speed stumpy, alloy flywheel and custom built clutch, R180 LSD, disc rear, adjustable rear trailing arms, front volvo 2 spot and 298mm discs, bilsteins all round, front and rear sway bars.  Lots or good stuff.  Needs some panel damaged fixed, the few rust spots taken care of, a ton of rewiring done and a good clean.  Once that's done I'll get the gas bottle recertified or replaced, remove the turbo and get it running on straight gas then get it through rego.  After that the turbo will go back on.  It's currently 180ish rwhp with NA like response which is plenty for me.  I don't want massive HP.  I think you lose the essence of what these things are when you push big HP through them.

  • Like 3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...