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On 21/01/2018 at 7:11 PM, KiwiRS4T said:

Looking good! So what offsets work on the 8 in rims? Different front and rear?

The width is actually 8.5", and the offset is 45. they sit nicely just a smidge behind the guards. The 235/30 tyres are a bit too slim for my liking, so probably will swap to 235/35 down the track. 

Connected my phone to the factory Bluetooth.  Phone controls on the wheel work too. Noticed the voice recognition understands English but you need to know the names of the menus.......  Anyone got more experience? 

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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Installed MCA Street Performance Series coilovers, Driftworks front upper camber arms (approx. -6 deg in front and -5 deg in rear), Garson Deep Racing Ryugi wheels on the front in 18x11 -22 (have to re-lip the rears from 18x12.5 -22 to the same specs as the front before I can run them), painted brake callipers and installed a sub and amp. Nothing too major but its a start on my static VIP-inspired build. 

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Edited by Caleb_M35
  • Like 2
  • 2 weeks later...

Brake upgrade on the front completed, they're only little 8pots, 4pots to go on the rears once bracketry is sorted for diameter and offset. 

And finally able to get new rims fitted now that brakes are done and allow clearances 

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  • Like 4
On 4/3/2018 at 5:19 AM, TukeH said:

 Finaly I got fmic installed. I did not notice the difference

Later have to buy aluminium pipes to.

 

Also I bought bc racing shock cover bags

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You need to up the boost to 10 psi

  • Like 1

Will look much like this just tidied up. I have to clean up the clear lenses to go over the front to seal it. The light bar is custom from my company I had. They are about 4 times brighter than the stock high beam. The strip across the top is daytime running light and indicator in one. The halos are park lights so will come on with the auto headlights. The flashing lights in the sides are just for when the cars on show. 

It is very hard to recreate the mounting points for the stock HID as I have cut 2 of the 3 off to fit the light bar

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18 minutes ago, Long and low said:

Will look much like this just tidied up. I have to clean up the clear lenses to go over the front to seal it. The light bar is custom from my company I had. They are about 4 times brighter than the stock high beam. The strip across the top is daytime running light and indicator in one. The halos are park lights so will come on with the auto headlights. The flashing lights in the sides are just for when the cars on show. 

It is very hard to recreate the mounting points for the stock HID as I have cut 2 of the 3 off to fit the light bar

20180407_154522.jpg

Any link to where to get that day time running light? Looks like its made out of silicon?

Aliexpress 
http://s.aliexpress.com/vmYN7BFJ?fromSns=Copy 

Had to cut holes into the panel to wrought the light. It's too long and to attach you need to buy double sided tape and I drilled holes through to use some wire to make sure it doesn't come off.

 

 

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    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
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