Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Unfortunately the new custom sump was modelled on an R33 and it didn't clear the swaybar enough when we put it in last week.

Because of this we missed out at PI on the weekend. I had brand new rubber on the thing and was ready to go but no such luck...

Turns out that the whiteline sway bar that is on my car was a prototype from years ago and they don't sell them anymore so pretty unique situation. The bend is very close to the sump so that's what has caused the issue. I think that a new 27mm sway bar with a better option that pulling the sump off again! Custom one being investigated now. Hope it makes the 21st!!

  • 2 weeks later...

time for another update...

New 27mm swaybar has just arrived to solve the sump clearance issues. I currently have a loan 24mm until I get a chance to fit the 27mm. Might try both on the weekend if I can as a comparison.

Fulcrum suspension have sorted out the bar for me.

I've extended the wing end plates as the old ones were a little small and the bigger ones should hopefully stop a bit of the spill over the sides.

post-10715-0-12315400-1342526396_thumb.jpg

The splitter has come a long way. I'm still testing as it's all a bit new to me still. I'm really just copying what the fast guys do and following basic principles and advice I'm getting along the way.

I'll be logging the data at Philip Island this weekend to see if straight line speed is sacrificed and if corner speed is increased. As a bare minimum I'm expecting more downforce from just the splitter seperating the air and minimising air flow under the car.

If it all works the plan is to make the parts out of carbon fibre down the track. It's all trial and error at the moment.

post-10715-0-15594600-1342526630_thumb.jpg

post-10715-0-67829500-1342526762_thumb.jpg

post-10715-0-83309300-1342526985_thumb.jpg

loving the alloy canards. i made some about 3 years ago and was laughed at. been hesitant to make any new ones.

i seen in a build thread for an american R35 time attack car they made canards out of alloy. they were far easier and cheaper and did the same job.

are the uprights for your wing an off the shelf item?

Yeah the ally is pretty light except for the splitter. It's damn heavy. CF would be so much better

are the uprights for your wing an off the shelf item?

Nah they were made by superleggera carbon fibre in sydney. They're pretty hard core!

Yeah the ally is pretty light except for the splitter. It's damn heavy. CF would be so much better

Nah they were made by superleggera carbon fibre in sydney. They're pretty hard core!

oh they look like a production type thing.

do you have any bracing under the boot lid? i may have missed it.

Hope you don't mind Russ. Most people probably know what happened already!

Russmans R32 GTST blasting around PI in it's last shakedown before WTAC!

For the full article check out Autocult -> CLICK HERE!

7629603330_b9209c015b_b.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, there's a very minor drift left that happens a few seconds after letting go of the steering wheel, but not enough to bother me. Enjoying the car still!
    • Got you mate. Check your email!
    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
×
×
  • Create New...