Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

fark that's bad

whats considerably worse than the holocaust is a flashing airbag light

autoelecs attempt and fail, recommend replace items that aren't broken (replaced anyway)

Nissan workshop manual is inconclusive and provides not-possible diagnostic results

google fails

sau fails

genocide is preferable

Did your airbags pop in your ditch kiss?

Or was the impact angle not right to trigger them?

No, it was at very low speed and hit it at the rear... and this is an entirely different car now..

Door button trick doesn't do anything. (wont go from 'user mode' to 'diagnostic mode')

Nissan say that it wont go from user mode to diagnostic mode if battery voltage is under 9V.

Battery voltage is 12.5v.

There's also a god damned mystery yellow plug behind where the head unit goes. There's nowhere to plug this in. Anyone? lol.

fark that's bad

whats considerably worse than the holocaust is a flashing airbag light

autoelecs attempt and fail, recommend replace items that aren't broken (replaced anyway)

Nissan workshop manual is inconclusive and provides not-possible diagnostic results

google fails

sau fails

genocide is preferable

While I'm not sure about this holocaust humor

I had same problem with air bag light .. Do you have neons in the footwell? Or similar ?

Edited by alr33x

in all seriousness holocaust stuff isn't funny, its only funny because of how absurd and so on it is, and its that absurdity that is the funny part

anyhow,

Airbag wasn't triggering on car prior to it receiving my original engine and transmission and ECU's.

It is now. However, the SRS system is supposedly a self-contained system/unit with its own sensors, wires, and so on. Changing an engine shouldn't trigger it from what I can see going by the workshop manual.

Everything is that distinctive yellow, and there's a plug where the stock audio is, except this one is bright yellow. However it terminates short and there's nothing obvious to plug it into. Unsure if unfortunately coloured or god knows what.

Dunno if its even for the airbag, but its suspicious because nothing else was altered and the system won't even enter diagnostic mode to give me flashing lights to find out whats wrong with it all. Given this mystery plug is behind the head unit figured someone may have seen it before when they do something like... change a head unit which is pretty much done in every single skyline in australia

Well if it helps mine was flashing non stop auto elec tried looked everywhere turned out autobarn slightly snipped wire in passenger footwell that was causing the light on dash to flash so they fixed that and problem forever solved

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...