Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 21/10/2016 at 10:35 AM, White_Stag said:

Hi guys does anyone have parts numbers for Rocker cover gaskets and seal for back of oil cooler. I'm having slight oil leaks.

 

Thank you!

The part numbers for both rocker cover gaskets is in the first post of this thread.

 

Did you even try looking before posting?

  • 2 months later...

Hi there, nice thread!  I have been having a look through.. and in another thread here, regards bodywork. I got the impression many of the body parts are interchangeable. My 2003 nm35 ARX suffered a ram from a commodore the other day. I am looking for a replacement rear bump/bar and reinforcing rail and want to check that a series 2 will fit on my series 1 or if any M35 rear bumpers WONT fit on the AR-X?

Cheers!

  • 2 weeks later...
Hi there, nice thread!  I have been having a look through.. and in another thread here, regards bodywork. I got the impression many of the body parts are interchangeable. My 2003 nm35 ARX suffered a ram from a commodore the other day. I am looking for a replacement rear bump/bar and reinforcing rail and want to check that a series 2 will fit on my series 1 or if any M35 rear bumpers WONT fit on the AR-X?
Cheers!

There is a ARX kit for sale on facebook and i have a spare rear reinforcement bar (currently wrecking a m35)

Thanks for the 2 responses above! I'm in New Zealand, we don't get very many of the ARX VQ25DET here! I have been ill so fixing this is still a work in progress. 

While on the subject of the backend of a VQ25DET, I  thought to raise the question on tow bars. I am guessing this is possible for the vehicle with a standard factory turbo setting?  I must admit I  get a bit out of my depth there, was wondering if the fixings may require a special reinforcing bar on the off chance. At which I may look into setting this up while doing the repair.

thanks again for the replies and this awesome thread.

Username is surname with an S at the end, also an anagram of Stagea. Love my badge haha.

Edited by Agates
  • 5 weeks later...

If it's a help to anyone, the official Nissan M35 Aircon condenser assembly (with receiver/dryer tank) part no. is 92100-AL570 (replaces original part no 92100-AL500).

The same condenser/tank assembly fits the following models:

STAGEA GH-M35, GH-NM35, GH-HM35,

STAGEA CBA-PM35, CBA-PNM35,

SKYLINE GH-V35, GH-HV35, GH-NV35,

SKYLINE CBA-CPV35, CBA-PV35

SKYLINE UA-CPV35, UA-PV35

So there.

 

Condenser Assy 153_276_3887104.jpg

  • Thanks 1
  • 1 month later...

P0110 CEL

 

nm35s are known for killing airflow meters. 

It appears the problem is not the airflow meter itself just simply the attached thermistor. 

I have tracked down the correct part a repaired 2 of my previously failed 5. 

I wish I had of known this originally. The thermister is simply clipped into place and develops a resistance based on temperature. This tells the ecu what the intake air temperature is. 

If you are having this error code come up the part required is;

http://www.newark.com/honeywell/135-202fag-j01/ntc-thermistor/dp/10M5322?CMP=AFF-CJ-3196515-Newark+Product+Catalog&source=CJ

 

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

anyone know if the m35 shares CV's with any other car? 2-3 years ago I had torn boot and fixed it. now its happened again and they got plenty of play in them.

would make it easier if they were shared with another make..

  • 2 weeks later...
On Monday, April 03, 2017 at 0:27 AM, m35stagea said:

P0110 CEL

 

nm35s are known for killing airflow meters. 

It appears the problem is not the airflow meter itself just simply the attached thermistor. 

I have tracked down the correct part a repaired 2 of my previously failed 5. 

I wish I had of known this originally. The thermister is simply clipped into place and develops a resistance based on temperature. This tells the ecu what the intake air temperature is. 

If you are having this error code come up the part required is;

http://www.newark.com/honeywell/135-202fag-j01/ntc-thermistor/dp/10M5322?CMP=AFF-CJ-3196515-Newark+Product+Catalog&source=CJ

 

Wow! If this is true, you really should post a topic on this. So many people have had issues with this. I am on my 4th maf sensor. I will try it out on one of the faulty ones. Thank you! L

  • 2 months later...

Does anyone have the part number(s) for a seal kit for the front brake calipers?

I rang nissan up and they quoted a part number: AY600NS013.  This is 2-3 weeks from Japan!  Surely this should be the same seal kit as the 350Z?

Another website was quoting 41120-AL525, but I have been told this is for a Nissan Juke.

 

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

if your blowing up AFM's I'd be looking at your air filters. Especially if they are an oil type Like K&N or BMC etc etc.

(no reason why they wont last 120,000km / 15 years)

  • 1 month later...

The info in the first post re: front wheel bearing on NM35 being the same as J32 Maxima is incorrect.

I ordered an aftermarket J32 Maxima bearing and hub assy from Bursons and attempted to fit it, but found the bearing carrier to be too large to fit the stub axle.

The CORRECT part number for an aftermarket bearing is NJ137KIT - this is a CBC part number, and should be available from most bearing places.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
7 hours ago, Deceiver said:

The info in the first post re: front wheel bearing on NM35 being the same as J32 Maxima is incorrect.

I ordered an aftermarket J32 Maxima bearing and hub assy from Bursons and attempted to fit it, but found the bearing carrier to be too large to fit the stub axle.

The CORRECT part number for an aftermarket bearing is NJ137KIT - this is a CBC part number, and should be available from most bearing places.

Thanks - i've updated the front page with your info.

  • 1 month later...

RHR Lower Door Seal:
82838-AQ01A
List Price: $99.06+

LHF Lower Door Seal:
80839-AC50B
List Price: $95.15+

Required Clips:
80897-AQ000
x11 to do one front, one rear door


image.thumb.png.99c3865a83c9864af46a17b8ef49796e.png

  • 5 weeks later...

Couldn't be bothered searching to see if this is known;

VQ35 starter motor is a direct replacement for VQ25DET.

I have just fitted one after mine cooked itself. Bolts straight in with no modifications at all and no clearance issues. They share the same solenoid as well. 

Edited by Sack87
Spelling mistake
  • Like 3
  • 6 months later...
Quote

Rear rotors and pads are the same as the 350z touring/V35 Skyline/X-trail
The rear pads & rotors for the 350z or v35 will not fit without modification

Can someone clarify what this means form the first post. I've read the whole thread a few time but can't find deets on the

modifications (if any) are required to rear pads and or rotors/

  • 2 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...