Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

51 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Andrew Hawkins? Does it have a Western Sydney Mode too? LOLOLOL..

There are similarities between your car and Brad's car I must say.

327km/h down conrod was delicious to watch

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, ActionDan said:

Fair enough, I think about this a lot as I chip away at my build(s). What do you think is your limit? $$? Until you crash/come close? Until you win at a certain level etc? 



 

I dont actually know yet, as undefined as it is, I think its when the combination of time, effort and $ vs its ability to fulfil my personal drive / challenge to go fast or get better and the want to build and maintain what I consider to be a pretty cool car...tips on the negative

decent crash and Im done dont like it that much to rebuild

 

1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Andrew Hawkins? Does it have a Western Sydney Mode too? LOLOLOL..

There are similarities between your car and Brad's car I must say.

😅 na more of Tassie Mode

Agree though yeah about neo head spec with vct

Yes I have alot of his setup and IP in mine and now his old Rb2.7 billet. He has developed a proven package that just works and actually just gives a sh*t and wants people to go fast

Along with the guys running my car over here now who are awesome its a solid team

Edited by bcozican
  • Like 4
11 hours ago, ActionDan said:

Fair enough, I think about this a lot as I chip away at my build(s). What do you think is your limit? $$? Until you crash/come close? Until you win at a certain level etc? 



 

Dollar limits for myself in projects basis is: spend lots of small amounts over time, never add them up. Therefore cost feels small.

 

Stop when it's not fun. :D

  • Haha 1
On 09/02/2023 at 2:35 PM, bcozican said:

Updating to a Motec M150 GPRP Pro package with all the gear to try and manage this thing moving forward and help a rank amateur like myself to extract the most I can out of this car eventually

this is going to pretty much require a full car rewire but given the first incarnation of the car was 8 years ago with just a basic package you know what its like when you start adding this and splicing that etc everything just gets outdated and messy.

Motec.thumb.jpg.efe255c2004236af9b130c7232fa5b18.jpg

This will go in very soon and be coupled with a new hot side of Artec exh mani and G35 1050 thats been sitting on the shelf for a while 

 

Hey mate, did you get this off Brad? I ordered mine off him today.

  • Like 1
2 hours ago, bcozican said:

Yeop sure did. Awesome sauce glad he had some left!

 

You get level 2 or 3 logging?

 

Had to get 2 for the pro level package, I can't see myself needing more than that. He's a legend to deal with.

Edited by Komdotkom
  • Like 1
  • 3 months later...

The car is getting advanced at a rapidly slow pace but getting there

Now moved to new new hotside to a 6 boob T4 divided flange, with Precision 6780 with 1.15 rear divided T4 flange and 60mm gate

 

and as always - nothing is easy 

 

 because  racecar 🙄

 

Precision.thumb.jpg.b9c8168e8191ec4017dbf6126fcec710.jpgPrecisioncuts.thumb.jpg.0ba9f5f1ef31abdb13263cfecd7c9b8d.jpg

  • Like 6

Didnt get to use the new artec/ garrett combo those invloved with the car preferred to use what has been tried and proven combo for them to get 'x' result

For power, response/ powerband, boost control and emap and be running this higher in the rev range than previously 

Edited by bcozican
  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...

Yeah mate. Right now murray has revalved etc the mca reds similar too / essentially mca gold without remote canisters 

 

But have been through different incarnations of mca reds through the course of the journey.

 

But mostly was playing spring rates over recommended early on

  • Like 2

Proper aero and aero suspension is very specific and different to conventional setups:

Going back to the start of my car build: 

I think MCA reds come out valved too lightly and are valved linearly and with the recommended spring rates are too soft - so people including myself up the spring rates and loose some control trying to balance out the softer valving

MCA Reds out the box I think were 10 or 11 front and 6 or 7 kg rear - was too soft me me even with no aero - even at that for a normal car it was too soft for me I went to 13kg front and 8kg rear pretty quick

As I added Topstage rear wing, then ally front splitter then sideskirts etc ended up at the same valving but 16kg front  with dampners on hard 3/4 and 10 kg rear at dampners hard 3/4 - it didnt handle great/ chewed tyres etc

Then I got my first proper carbon front splitter with good downforce - with the above setup I plowed it into the ground and destroyed it within 2 laps

 

Cue the people that actually know what they are talking about:

 

You cant keep Aero cars up with spring rates - you cant put enough spring in them to keep them up in the first place and then if you can it'll handle like a brick anyway:

 

Without giving IP away:

 

My cars valving is now progressive - soft initially moving to harder with compression

My spring rates are back to the range I started with / a normal car would be recommended

The car sits on a combination of hard packers and progressive poly bump stops after a certain amount of suspension travel that only allows the car to go so low - which what keeps it off the ground 

The suspension travel - droop etc is all limited to a smaller specific range by spring perch/ bump stops and various other things

Essentially trying to get the best of both worlds making it compliant / softer in slow non aero corners for mechanical grip and progressively harder to sit on full hard bump stops to keep it off the ground 

 

  • Like 4

Id say its because as you mentioned

1) for tarmac   

2) because the gold MCA's have a different builder, parts and methodology (ie: valving) around them to all the others produced with the MCA brand

3) because we are trying to keep mine in a max 50mm suspension travel range 🤪

 

  • Like 2

while we're rolling little updates

Car is plumbed up with new hotside

New full car wiring, motec system with keypad etc 90% done / nearly complete - added EGTs along the way this thing has more sensors than the NASA space station

upgraded gear position sensor as couldnt control auto blip good enough

Found Id bent the front subframe - so got new one plus braced + new front LCA/ castor combo  - this was within 4 events of installing and using ABS after it being fine for years so assume its extra braking load

Had to increase the fuel system now going with intake surge with 1 x lift and 3 x pumps walbro

New aero being put on right now

plus a million other things

might even get to drive this thing soon 🙄😅

Id say it should turn a tyre when we turn up the wick but spose the whole point is to not too haha

how all this is going to end up I dont know Im just a guy having a crack at going fast 

Engine Bay.jpg

Edited by bcozican
  • Like 7
4 hours ago, bcozican said:

I think MCA reds come out valved too lightly and are valved linearly and with the recommended spring rates are too soft - so people including myself up the spring rates and loose some control trying to balance out the softer valving

Very good info!

Funny enough, I just did that for my shitbox, with 0 aero. Has 13kg(f) and 7kg(r) in it now, after the advice MCA gave me.

Going out tomorrow to test it out, either I go slower or faster right? lol.

 

Btw... your engine bay is mental, can't fit turbo? cut tub lol.

23 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Very good info!

Funny enough, I just did that for my shitbox, with 0 aero. Has 13kg(f) and 7kg(r) in it now, after the advice MCA gave me.

Going out tomorrow to test it out, either I go slower or faster right? lol.

 

Btw... your engine bay is mental, can't fit turbo? cut tub lol.

interesting to see how it goes.. I may have documented it early in my build thread with only a rear Origin wing (which lets face it does nothing but add drag) I initially  upped the fronts first like you to 13kg left the rear the same - too much understeer still 

upped the spring rate from either 6 or 7 to 8kg from one event to another was only 2 weeks apart - changed literally nothing else in the car picked up 0.75 sec a lap consistently on a 60 sec lap as the balance of car just got better 

Re: engine bay 😆 In WTAC open class terms at least I still have a relative OEM front end most are tube framed - im getting to see why over and above just weight recently ha

 

 

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, bcozican said:

I initially  upped the fronts first like you to 13kg left the rear the same - too much understeer still 

I set the front ARB to the softest setting, assuming the 3kg in rate jump would make it understeer. Find out tomorrow night I suppose :D  

 

1 hour ago, bcozican said:

Re: engine bay 😆 In WTAC open class terms at least I still have a relative OEM front end most are tube framed - im getting to see why over and above just weight recently ha

then next post is, "I did a thing, and tube framed the front" lol.

  • Haha 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
×
×
  • Create New...