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Bit more progress happening on the wiring now. Need to order some more heatshrink so I can keep going. 

Laid up the trans harness first. 23 wires total, 5 filler wires. Started on the shifter, LCD and mode switch today and got most of that done and terminated. Just need that shrink to finish it off and terminate back on the TCU.

Home reno - got the garage epoxy coated on Tuesday and laundry cabinetry installed on Wednesday. Kitchen goes in next Tuesday and hopefully benchtops wont be too far off. 

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  • Like 4
6 hours ago, robbo_rb180 said:

That garage floor looks great. What did you use?

Good work on the loom, I've brought the hpa motorsport wiring course and keen do some fancy stuff on the new car.

Not sure what product it is, got someone to do it for me. 

Thanks mate, which course did you get? Definitely worth the money, I did the pro course but I'd like to do the club level one too so I can improve my non twisted harnesses.

  • Like 2

Good call on the floor, we've got the same in the new garage and it's working very well for durability, oil downs etc etc even with parking the tractor on it. We also got it done professionally because I wanted it done right not DIY. Been down about 5 years, what worries me is how do I redo it later if needed....

  • Like 1

The motorsport one, I had all the others already. Clubsport one is a bit dry but still great for learning. 

I'm having a shed built next month and been looking at coating the floor. Was price reasonable to get done? I've done a small area myself before and it was time consuming but lasted 6 years with no issues. 

  • Like 1
6 hours ago, robbo_rb180 said:

The motorsport one, I had all the others already. Clubsport one is a bit dry but still great for learning. 

I'm having a shed built next month and been looking at coating the floor. Was price reasonable to get done? I've done a small area myself before and it was time consuming but lasted 6 years with no issues. 

Yeah it wasn't too bad. Was about 21m² $1650incl. I've been thinking about doing the shed as well but gonna wait until everything else it done before i decide

6 hours ago, Duncan said:

Good call on the floor, we've got the same in the new garage and it's working very well for durability, oil downs etc etc even with parking the tractor on it. We also got it done professionally because I wanted it done right not DIY. Been down about 5 years, what worries me is how do I redo it later if needed....

I think you could just epoxy over it and seal it again. If not would be a full grind down and redo. Definitely worth the extra money to get someone to do it. If you do a shit job yourself youre gonna call em to come do it again anyway 🤣

  • Haha 1

Slowly chipping away while I had some spare time in between other jobs. Popped the Domiworks oil adapter onto the box and changed the trans mount bolts to slightly shorter ones. Need to get some -8 hardline and I can start making up the cooler lines. Will be challenging to keep it away from the dump but will do my best and probably have to run some heat tubing on it as well and possibly make up a shield. 

Pulled the stock rear ARB out and put in the new whiteline ARB. Theres a lot of adjustment on the link so im not sure what sort of height im meant to set it at. Set it on the softest setting (furtherest hole away from mount) but the link is on a big angle which doesn't look good.. anyone have any insight on it? 

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  • 8 months later...

Have been flat out with work, family and renos lately and slack in the skyline department. All this stuff is from a few months back now. Finally got stock on the printer I wanted. Wasn't long until I whipped up a custom logo and tested it out. I finished the harness bar a couple little bits and pieces. Really happy with how its come up. 

Finally picked up my motor and started cracking on it. Gave the intake a clean up and polish. Ordered a new hypertune 4-1 coolant pipe which will make things easier. Only stupid thing is that they made it a 1.5" hose instead of a factory 34mm... would have been great to be able to pop a coolant temp sensor 34-34mm thing in there, but oh well.

This afternoon me and the son went out and pulled the gearbox and dummy block out to make way for the new donk. Hopefully have some time in the coming weeks to start making some decent progress.

 

Other than that renos have been kicking along, got the tiles done while we were up at Fraser which came up mint. Now that the new front door is in he can finish off the remainder there, and also jack the old tiles in the toilet up and put new ones down and I can finish painting the walls and new skirting.

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  • Like 2
4 hours ago, nicr4wks said:

The looms are 👌real good looking work!

Do you know which part number timing belt you're running? I couldn't for the life of me get mine fitting without using 2 tensioners.

Thanks mate. 

Yeah its a Gates T291

Got some more done yesterday arvo. Powered the TCU up and noticed the shifter wasnt on. Checked the pinout and rectified a couple of things and got it all working. The vid shows me scrolling through the map switch can see all the codes on the bottom of the screen as well. Didnt have the mechatronics unit plugged into the valvebody, so I was getting open circuit valve codes. Plugged it in and only code was code 33 which is no can comms.

Went ahead and filled the board and popped the cover on and got it ready for assembly. So hopefully this arvo I'll get the valvebody back into the box and have it ready to go. 

Put some more bits and pieces on the motor. Need to pull the covers and dial the cams in to kelford recommended specs and then she can be popped into the bay.

Whats everyones thoughts on a PTE6870 vs a Garrett G40-1150?

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  • Like 2
14 hours ago, klutched said:

Yes mate

With running the ZF 8 speed, what are you going to use to talk to the gearbox and run it?

Do you have an off the shelf aftermarket box that will pretend to be the ecu etc, or are you programming this into your ECU to actually handle it?

 

Curious on these parts as it may solve a problem for a race car I know of....

  • 2 weeks later...

Slowly getting there. Got the cams dialled in last week and covers back on. Picked up a brand new Gen 2 6870 yesterday that I couldn't resist for the price. Has a ceramic coated 1.0 T4 twin scroll rear which will be too small so I'll try and source a 1.32.

Started getting the shifter drop box made up, came up half decent without a panbrake. Will get it welded up when I get the new turbo hot side welded up.

Opened the boot yesterday and forgot about the mess I left in there 🤣 I'll need to have a decent crack at cleaning it up and then spray it all black and put it back together with a new ply floor to make it nicer/more useable.

Have ordered a new lower timing cover and bolts/rubber washers. Once all that is here I can put it all together and get it in the car!

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  • Like 5

During the week I tacked on my lower timing cover extension and gave it a lick of paint. New rubber washer and upper timing cover bolt kit arrived so I popped the front assembly on. Had a few hours on the car today. Picked up a new turbo oil feed fitting and hose clamps for the hypertune silicone hose as well as a 3" donut and 3-3.5" reducer so I can mate up to the existing cooler piping. Got the balancer on and torqued up. Popped the viscous fan on and installed the alternator belt. Pulled the motor off the stand and bolted the adapter and flex plate up. Did a check over to make sure nothing crucial was missing and dropped her into the bay 🙌🙌

Still have a fair bit to do on her. Ill try and get some time this week and put her on the stands and get the box in with wiring so I can heatshrink the rubber grommet in place. While it's up I'll do whatever else I can that's easier from underneath. Need to have a look at fitting the front swaybar up as well. Had an issue fitting it with the lowered motor and big ASR sump. I think I'll have to get some custom sway bar spacers made up. Need to get some more brake cleaner so I can start cleaning out all the lines/hoses and start plumbing it all back up. 

Need to get my injectors serviced this week as well, which should allow me to finish the cold side.

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  • Like 4
  • 4 weeks later...

Been slowly chipping away at it when I've got time. Tried to get the box in with the converter but worked out that the flexplate isn't the correct thickness and the converter pulls out off the pump too much (about 8mm). The flexplate for some reason was setup to use the secondary holes on the converter which had a press in nut to bolt to. I worked with Adamat performance the guys who manufacture the kits and they revised the design and made it suit the factory converter holes and milled up a new one for me and is currently on its way over. Can see the differences between the two compared to the orignal design which is in the post above. Once that's here the box can go in for good. I dummy'd it back up to get tailshaft length and is currently with Hardy Spicer to sort that out. Unfortunately won't get it back until late Jan :(

Have been working in the boot lately getting it all a bit nicer and useable. Painted it with sound deadener and cut out a new boot floor from 18mm MDF so I can put a pram or my tool bag in the back. Have marine carpet coming to stick onto that and then also cut a piece to cover the battery. Once ive stuck the carpet in and all cleaned up ill pop the fuel system back in. Need to order 2 new Walbro 525s to replace the 3x 460s. Should be enough fuel for the new setup and run a bit cooler as well having more volume in the surge tank and less heat. 

Have also ordered some sound deadener to put under the carpet. That should be here next week and I'll start putting it down on the floor, doors and roof. Hoping all this effort will make it a nice streeter with ability to daily if I want to.

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  • Like 2

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    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
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