Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

My track car is getting its engine removed int the next month or so.

The plan was to do a rb25/30.

use my

6boost, Hta3076r, and all the other bits and pieces. injectors, plazamanam plenum, etc etc

But after going for a cruise in my mates FG typhoon turbo and seeing the prices of the engine i was wondering what would be needed and how much of a hassle it would be to shove one in the 33 instead?

Has anyone done this?

What was needed?

How hard was it?

Im also looking at a 2 speed power glide to go with it

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/465206-fg-barra-motors/
Share on other sites

i believe it is more or less the same, just changes internally.

nd as far as being gay lol, well i was going to but an rb30 in it but might as well go for the much newer 3l?

And links to where you have seen it done??

they're a 4.0L

I would prefer a 2JZ-GTE with VVT-i

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/465206-fg-barra-motors/#findComment-7741572
Share on other sites

They're fantastic engines, the rods, oil pumps and valve springs are they're weak point but they are very easy to find upgraded parts that don't break,

On 98 with the factory fg xr6 turbo the limit it about 320kw and with the ba/bf and fg f6 turbo you're look at about 390kw add some e85 and of corse they'll happily do more

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/465206-fg-barra-motors/#findComment-7741592
Share on other sites

They're fantastic engines, the rods, oil pumps and valve springs are they're weak point but they are very easy to find upgraded parts that don't break,

On 98 with the factory fg xr6 turbo the limit it about 320kw and with the ba/bf and fg f6 turbo you're look at about 390kw add some e85 and of corse they'll happily do more

exactly what i was thinking. i already run 395kws in my rb25.

it just seems a decent budget build sort of thing. being a track only to helps.

it just all comes down to how hard, what needs to be modified etc etc

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/465206-fg-barra-motors/#findComment-7741599
Share on other sites

I realise that this thread is about Barra motors, but I tend to think that once you get to the point of putting in a completely different manufacturer's motor, with all the mounting/wiring/etc hassle associated - and especially as we're talking about a track car so legalities don't seem to be an issue - why are we talking about dropping in a heavy, tall lump of an engine like the Ford 6? Go to that much effort and you should lift your sights to an LS1 or LS2.

I also realise that the point of it is that the Ford 6 is available cheap.....but really, the cost of the engine soon disappears in everything else you have to do/buy for such a swap. Both swaps have their difficulties that add cost you might not expect.

Put in V8 with antisocial exhaust and open inlet tract and a tune and enjoy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/465206-fg-barra-motors/#findComment-7741656
Share on other sites

Except the ford turbo 6 will spank and ls1/2 engine every day of the week

Maybe in taxi sized cars. Have you considered the benefits of an NA power curve in a lighter car like a Skyline? I think the Barra will just light up the tyres and it will be goodnight nurse. Then on top of that, I reckon for equal power, the LS will still be circulating around the track many many laps after the Ford motor has shat itself.

And there is no arguing that the addition of a small amount of boost on top of the LS will then shatter any hope of the Ford keeping up (traction issues notwithstanding!)

Just sayin' is all. The effort spent on putting in Grandfather's axe could be better spent putting in a lighter alloy engine that actually sounds half reasonable. I think you'd get a smile from both, but I'd bank on the V8 smile being bigger and more readily accessed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/465206-fg-barra-motors/#findComment-7741667
Share on other sites

if going barra why retain the skyline?

i cant imagine telling people you run a 2 speed powerglided, 4L barra skyline would be an enjoyable experience. skyline is lighter? just get a VL m8

or just get anything lighter than both and whack it in.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/465206-fg-barra-motors/#findComment-7741687
Share on other sites

Or the next most reasonable suggestion. Again I realise that the basis of the thread is the availability of low priced Barra motors. But, now that 350/370Z trannies are becoming more available......VQ30DET transplants into R32s have to be looking more and more sensible. Back to the original idea of RB25/30, but with better weight and balance, plus much newer, still Nissan, blah blah blah. And they make the whoosh noises.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/465206-fg-barra-motors/#findComment-7741690
Share on other sites

good feedback....

I have just got bored of the rb25 at 393kws....

The engine is coming out and the first idea was to go 30/25 in which i have a 30 and some parts already....

The next option is the fg engine. lights mods and go from there...

And then scrap the 25 gearbox and go powerglide on each.

I already have the r33 with rollcage stripped fuel set up for e85 slicks that fit etc etc thats why im keeping the 33....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/465206-fg-barra-motors/#findComment-7741704
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty this is your red flag. In MAP based ECU's the Manifold pressure X RPM calculation is how the engine knows it is actually...running/going through ANY load. You are confusing the term 'base map' with your base VE/Fuel table. When most people say 'base map' they mean the stock entire tune shipped with the ECU, hopefully aimed at a specific car/setup to use as a base for beginning to tune your specific car. Haltech has a lot of documentation (or at least they used to, I expect it to be better now). Read it voraciously.
    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
×
×
  • Create New...