Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

7 minutes ago, Nismo 3.2ish said:

I reckon,  go one down for the street or find a slope to get it going ? 

You need to go in a "normal spec" GTR after your own sometime, and realise that maybe what you're trying to build isn't a GTR at all :P

  • Like 2
11 minutes ago, Lithium said:

You need to go in a "normal spec" GTR after your own sometime, and realise that maybe what you're trying to build isn't a GTR at all :P

From what I have heard, your right. I only drove 1 car from the getgo, built motor and a T78 , why wouldn't I try to change it , it was crap on the street , no, it was the worst car I have ever owned , not the cars fault, it was mine for not knowing anything about modified cars, silly me , lol.

The other  GTRs I have been in were great but worked over so I had never been in a stock car, but I have not seen any "stock" GTRs on this site or anyother sites that have not changed something on their car to make it better.

Now I have a car "I" like to drive ,  lots of help from SAU blokes  :) 

Not sure what to call it after your statement, maybe GTRRRRRRRRRSTEFR

I ended up going up a size to the 8374, and while I will be happy with it I also think I would have been quite happy with a 7670 aswell. Maybe even more so for day to day driving.
i need to pull my finger out and fix the niggly issues and get it tuned on full boost and E85 though

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, Piggaz said:

Any ETA for the tune pete?

A high comp 2.8 doesn't need a 7670. Needed a 8374/1.05! 

THAT!^^^ You haven't even driven the thing properly lol so dont comment till its sorted ?

9 hours ago, Lithium said:

Cheers for the updates - that is actually even laggier than I expected, but of the ilk.  Glad you are at least not having issues building higher boost levels.... is the higher boost/E85 tune still being done today?

641+whp on 91 on a Mustang dyno isn't kidding around, that will be very interesting with E85 in it :O

 

The car was a dog under 4k rpms before and that hasn't changed now. However, it feels like a better drive overall, especially shifting gears. It doesnt seem like the boost really ever drops which feels fan-f**king-tastic. I don't have the dyno for e85 on me (will post tomorrow) but it made 758 on e85 tuned semi-conservatively, which after driving I am pretty happy with. Will have more updates to follow tomorrow.

Sounds not too bad all things considered!  So was there any reason why it's tuned conservatively or not pushed as hard as it initially sounded like you would?  They should have HEAPS in reserve.


Keen to see the dyno plots and the further updates you mentioned :)

No tune for a few more weeks still.
Got 3.5" exhaust made up and moved the pod filter off of the turbo over to the old washer bottle spot so it can suck in air from the guard at least, so nothing really left to do apart form track down a very small oil leak (turbo drain i think) and a idle noise that started up (possibly new exhaust?)

Went for a drive over nebo. Car wasnt exactly coming from a good palce for that but dayum its not half bad now... and will only get better with E85.

Certainly don't think the 7670 would have been better enough to justify the 60+kw drop on the top end.

  • Like 2

Hey guys I'm a bit late to the party!

anyone running a 9174 on their 26 or 30 yet? The evo boys seem to be making good numbers out of them but haven't heard much from the GTR community

and what are people's thoughts on cast vs alloy housings?

  • Like 1

Will be looking forward to see how it goes!

what size housing did you get and what power/ goals are you aiming for?

I only recently found out that the alloy housing is an option, cost to me isn't a factor I guess if reliability isn't a sacfrifice then I'll opt for the alloy one. (I will be water cooling regardless)



The car was a dog under 4k rpms before and that hasn't changed now. However, it feels like a better drive overall, especially shifting gears. It doesnt seem like the boost really ever drops which feels fan-f**king-tastic. I don't have the dyno for e85 on me (will post tomorrow) but it made 758 on e85 tuned semi-conservatively, which after driving I am pretty happy with. Will have more updates to follow tomorrow.


Have you you tried inducing overlap in the cams a bit? May car (granted on 8374 .92 IWG) spooled 5-600 rpms sooner and made 30 more ft-lbs of tq when I rolled the cams in. HUGE difference on boost threshold and mid range. I did lose 10 hp on top but the car overall is def faster and easier to drive

the 9174's have been very popular lately, for 2 reasons:

-borgwarner has the most bizarre production methodology ever, and they are spititng out 9174s only  (not 8374, not 9180)

-the 9174 has an internal pricing error causing it to be the least expensive of B2 frame EFRs. 

we get shipments of 9174 with iron and alloy bearing housing.  The main factor for consideration if you will use alloy  is that watercooling is mandatory.  the iron turbos are not nearly as picky.  however the alloy turbos are crazy lightweight, its a 7lb difference

Edited by Full-Race Geoff
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

I was amazed how light the alloy ones are. 

Why is the 9174 so cheap? That part reason why I got it. 

I still haven't got a rear housing yet . Got stuffed around by Sparesbox. 

Was waiting til gcg got them in stock as shipping from overseas was a killer.

13 hours ago, 3LGODZILA said:

Will be looking forward to see how it goes!

what size housing did you get and what power/ goals are you aiming for?

I only recently found out that the alloy housing is an option, cost to me isn't a factor I guess if reliability isn't a sacfrifice then I'll opt for the alloy one. (I will be water cooling regardless)

Will be using 1.05. don't have any power goals, whatever it makes on 26 -30 psi on e85.

On 9/1/2017 at 7:35 AM, HarrisRacing said:


 

 


Have you you tried inducing overlap in the cams a bit? May car (granted on 8374 .92 IWG) spooled 5-600 rpms sooner and made 30 more ft-lbs of tq when I rolled the cams in. HUGE difference on boost threshold and mid range. I did lose 10 hp on top but the car overall is def faster and easier to drive

 

I am not sure and I don't personally know how to check. I would have to ask the tuner. I also think that would require a retune as well. The shop is remote from me so it's not easy to make changes unless I go elsewhere.

On 8/28/2017 at 3:54 PM, Lithium said:

Sounds not too bad all things considered!  So was there any reason why it's tuned conservatively or not pushed as hard as it initially sounded like you would?  They should have HEAPS in reserve.


Keen to see the dyno plots and the further updates you mentioned :)

After speaking with the tuner further, I believe that 750 was all he could get out of the setup. If they can do more, I don't know what other changes could be made to extract more power.

On 03/09/2017 at 3:40 AM, minesskyline said:

After speaking with the tuner further, I believe that 750 was all he could get out of the setup. If they can do more, I don't know what other changes could be made to extract more power.

Interesting - I would have expected more than that!    Still, must be pretty solid even with that?

On 03/09/2017 at 3:42 AM, minesskyline said:

@Full-Race Geoff Do you know why the wastegates would allow small amounts of oil to be blown out from them? I have the turbosmart wastegates from your site.

That doesn't sound great :/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...