Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

4 hours ago, brian_s30z said:

Nah, I doubt it. I already see the meme of the disappointed kid looking at paper (car meme is dyno sheet). “Spends $4k to improve response by 1,000rpm+, only gets 400rpm difference.” 

 

You're not sprinkling fairy dust on it, they're mechanical modifications that are proven to work. The variable turbo side of it isn't proven as a specific product yet but the concept is to make it a smaller turbo (which is well proven to add response) until you need it to be a bigger turbo once its spooled up.

Even if it was "only" 400 rpm lower in the rev range that will make a massive difference to your response. Arse dyno can definitely feel the difference! 

i have a set of the borgwarner VTV housings if anyone is wanting to do a similar setup.  They did not work well for me in twinscroll configuration, despite my initial expectation.  I hope turbosource has got it figured out, but it definitely does work in open volute/singlescroll 

Here's my 7670 with a little more boost added in. We are at 129K now. Pretty much going to leave it where it is now. 

Highest power I have seen here in Oz is 418kw ALL IN (on an evo too) that power was made on 235s. My car runs 265s and I have actually back to back tested my car from 235s to a 265 on the exact same tyre (Hankook RS4's) and I lost almost 15kw between the 2 sizes lol.  

20201030_174351.jpg

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, R32 TT said:

Surely the bigger number is the 9180...  (but yes, that could be wrong).      I bet the 8474 must be different to drive though.

8474 flows more than the 9180 lol 🤷‍♂️

Red line is 9180, Blue line 8474.   From limited street driving I can't tell a real difference at all in most conditions, no turbo is the clear winner but im inclined to feel the 9180 better suits my engine so far.  I'll do some more testing with high lift cams and a 9280
 

Edited by RB335
On 30/10/2020 at 12:40 AM, RB335 said:

My EFR9180 and EFR8474 on 2.8 with Vcam Step II / ex HKS 272 8.7

Absolutely visceral to drive 

 

 

20201014_182343.jpg

At what turbine speeds? Both of those look far from “all in”. Considering an 8374 will piss in 600 whp, why are a 8474 and 9180 which flow far more only touching those numbers? 

Have you you got a decent exhaust on it yet or does it still have that 2.1 inch thing you said was on it a while ago? If that has not been addressed you are wasting your time.

  • Like 1

So Benny carried out a turbine housing touch test. After a 20 minute drive he touched the compressor housing, that was cool enough and then dropped a finger on the turbine housing. Even the 1.05 T4 was hot. This was the result. 
 

🤣

4BD860AC-3BDF-4F85-B998-C9D78EDEF6D7.jpeg

D615E90F-D8C2-4093-85D5-2E6C6C879C2D.jpeg

  • 4 weeks later...

Semi off topic, but Geoff. Is there any way if getting some of the EFR 3D models that I have been seeing used (SEMA shows, Papadakis exhaust manifold video etc) I have searched, but found nothing really. 

 

I have no commercial interest with it, I'd just love to print one :)

14 minutes ago, taijohnsen said:

Semi off topic, but Geoff. Is there any way if getting some of the EFR 3D models that I have been seeing used (SEMA shows, Papadakis exhaust manifold video etc) I have searched, but found nothing really. 

 

I have no commercial interest with it, I'd just love to print one :)

you've been watching the latest papadakis manifold vid havent you!

  • 1 month later...

@Timmaz300 looking really good so far, keep up the good work!

 

@all: A friend of mine is collecting parts at the moment to go for about 600 (engine) hp and has snacked up a 8374 IWG.

What are the options for the wastegate actuator on the IWG EFRs?

Electronic actuator (with supra parts) as suggested in this thread in late August will probably be too expensive for him (500+ $/€ ?), because he just spent loads of money on parts. Are there even any complete kits available now or is it still "do it yourself"-style?

The OEM actuator on the EFRs are the known weakpoint on the IWG EFRs, at least thats what this thread and similar threads on other forums suggest. So I wouldn't recommend this to him. If he does go this route, he will definetely need the high boost canister, because otherwise he wouldn't even be able to reach around 15 psi?!

This leaves us with conventional aftermarket actuators, for example from turbosmart.

Twin Port is probably the way to go here, because the price difference is not that big. Right?

What about the position sensor? Is this necessary on a road car or similar to the BW turbo speed sensor (not a must, but very nice to have) or not necessary at all?

Is there a noable difference in performance between the GenV and the IWG-75 twin port turbosmart actuator?

Thanks guys 🙂

And regards from Germany!

Edited by MotHot

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
    • Sounds good, we will aim to be there! @The Bogan I'll give you a shout if you are heading up to campbelltown for the meet too.
    • Before I get to the test day, just to finish off the android head unit. This is a demo from car start up....the standard/host system takes a few seconds to boot (same as all v37) but Android comes up quickly. In this vid I'm using the delivered launcher but have set the default to Agami since which is easier to navigate when if use primarily 5 apps. You can see the host system still takes over when required eg putting it in reverse, and you can switch between Android and not by holding the back button 3 sec. It is pretty responsive (fast) but you can see I had to press harder than expected a couple of times.  I still have the phone connected to the stock system, and that also seamlessly takes over Android music playing. v37-android-demo.mp4 The bigger reason that I put this in though is so that I can use Ecutek directly on the head unit. That gives me a dash with logging (up to 20MB only), high and low value warnings on any parameter etc etc. I've run a USB cable from the Ecutek OBD dongle to a USB input on the unit, easy. v37-ecutek-demo.mp4   The unit did freeze on the launcher the other day, I think Agami was trying to verify the license when it didn't have a data connection...will monitor and report back if there are any other problems but so far I'm very happy with the upgrade.
    • Nah that is just crappy GPS mapping, I did have a small excursion (cold tyres, damp track, surprise!), will post up that when I get a chance.
×
×
  • Create New...