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1 hour ago, ActionDan said:


Accumulators don't address the root cause, they just throw oil back in when the issue is most prevalent. They also fail, have seen spun bearings on cars fitted with them. Nothing is fool proof. This is why we have engine protection....

See above.

 

I agree, I didn't mean get an accumulator and youre sorted - but it is a wonderfully affordable way of giving things a chance, they do work. End of the day, I think its crazy people are willing to drop $1500+ on a billet surge tank and 5 fuel pumps to protect from fuel surge, but not see the value of $500-$1000 to protect from oil surge ?‍♂️

 

 

 

  • Like 4

Certain LS's do have issues with oil starvation, notoriously in long G left handers (like Winton has one of!).

As soon as you go R comp or better (say, slicks in the above example) this is something you just have to be aware of. Gen4 LS's are by far the most notorious for this problem. So much so that GM ship the cars with Drysumps from OEM..

If you go to the track.. really just have to be aware of this no matter what motor you run. Like posted above, feels like an Accumulator on a RB (or any older motor) should be mod #1 before anything power related even begins.

The only motors that seem to be "immune" to it (realistically less prone, not immune) are Renaults and MX5's somehow. Easy to find reports of race series using stock oil control for these motors..

Yet... I want to drive the problem prone one...

  • Like 1
On 15/09/2020 at 4:02 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

didn't put a hole through the block and through the body work.. no IG likes or won't be all over Snapchat

 

The reason I like of like the E90/2 M3 more is because it's rare(?) being a V8, it could potentially be a classic in say 10~15 years time.. who knows right?

 

It's definitely possible. The latter ones are still worth a fair bit but 07-09 got down to around 25k for both manual and dct which is a lot of car for the money.

S65 sounds great but they are finicky and are also torque less wonders ;)

  • Haha 1

Not too sure yet @niZmO_Man been so busy de-cluttering the house getting it ready to get it on the market.

Just picked up stock wheels off my mate and dug out my stock R33 seat.

Heading to out later to swap wheels and seat so the car isn't worth anything, since it's not in a very secure place.

20200920_130714.thumb.jpg.7f904c1b67ea10be78d6c360a9be8ac8.jpg

 

 

On 20/09/2020 at 1:19 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Not too sure yet @niZmO_Man been so busy de-cluttering the house getting it ready to get it on the market.

Just picked up stock wheels off my mate and dug out my stock R33 seat.

Heading to out later to swap wheels and seat so the car isn't worth anything, since it's not in a very secure place.

20200920_130714.thumb.jpg.7f904c1b67ea10be78d6c360a9be8ac8.jpg

Entire Carrot turbo setup for $50 delivered to COVIDbourne? 

  • Haha 1
  • 3 months later...
On 25/10/2018 at 2:00 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Nothing too exciting, however got the Nz Wiring Trigger kit working. Turns out the Haltech Elite patch loom is wired to only receive the 120 degree input from the CAS. Took me a while to work that out with Matt from Haltech and Geoff from NZ Wiring.

How did you end up fixing this?

I am thinking about the same kit to use with my elite 2500, was there much needed to get it working?

4 minutes ago, Tobz said:

How did you end up fixing this?

I am thinking about the same kit to use with my elite 2500, was there much needed to get it working?

Turns out Haltech Support was a bit confused and told me to supply +12V to the reluctor and feed it back to the trigger input. Geoff from NZ Wiring actually was right from the start. You don't use the +12v at all, as the reluctor itself generates a voltage.

So all you need to do is use the Trigger PIN & Sensor GND. Both Home signal & +12V are not connected/used.

The arming voltage table given to you by Geoff at NZ Wiring "should" be able to get the car started, however I found that increasing the values a bit reduced the trigger count errors.

I'll get a screenshot of it soon :)

  • Like 1

@Tobz sorry about the delay, laptop was flat lol

 

Trigger Arming Voltages Below

image.png.5413098a8985f47a0c01398c1fafb177.png

 

Trigger Settings, Note the offset is a bit cooked, but it works and even Geoff from NZ Wiring said what I did was ok

image.png.cb93856f918a10faf676f353a8fe58ba.png

 

 

  • Like 1
On 06/01/2021 at 11:10 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

So all you need to do is use the Trigger PIN & Sensor GND. Both Home signal & +12V are not connected/used.

 

Thanks so much for the tables!  i ordered the kit last night so its in the mail now :)

Also randomly onsong performance released a youtube clip yesterday on the NZ Wiring kit and they reckon all you need to do is re pin 2 wires (i suck at wiring, hate it so much! but he was mentioning something about swapping the cas and cam wires, i need to watch the video again as i didnt quite get it all).  Ill do some research this weekend and im sure it will all make sense.

Depending on your car, you probably don't need to swap anything.

I was running a R34 motor and CAS with R33 wiring. Made things a bit more confusing lol.

If you've ordered the right kit off NZ Wiring it will be pinned correctly to suit the R34 loom. All you need to do is setup the triggering, arming table, then lock your timing, adjust +/- the TDC offset till it is 100% synced.

Then rip skids.

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...

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