Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Apologies, I know there are probably loads of threads about this. A search brings up a stack of results but nothing that specifically answering my question.

My stock turbo popped on my R33 GTST (I think its series 1.5). There is slight shaft play and the impeller is touching the housing. 

Question is, should I recon it and have the ceramic wheel replaced with a metal one or change the turbo? 

My end goal is 400-450hp. The plan was to do injectors, MAF etc. before the turbo but i have to change that around now.

If I change the turbo, what are the suggestions for something which will be a straight swop or close to it?

The car is basically stock with just a milteck exhaust. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473250-suggested-turbo-on-a-stock-rb25/
Share on other sites

I used he atr45 externally gated from hypergear turbo on my 33 on 98 and made 300kw atw. Great bang for buck. I had all supporting mods 750cc injectors haltech etc if you Have more money to play with gtx3076r gen 1 or 2 is also a great responsive turbo.

 

Another vote for GTX3071 here. 

OP mentioned he was thinking about injectors and AFM etc, so this is a turbo that will make the most out of that. GTX3071 may be not THE_BEST_EVER for outright performance on stock RB25, but it is by far the simplest way to get 99% of the performance anyone is going to ever need given what you've said just now.

 

I have an Rb25neo with an ATR45 and a mate with a GTX 3071 Gen 2 also on an Rb25neo making roughly around the same power.

 

Cept my ATR45 is laggy as and you really feel the boost kick in. GTX 3071 Gen 2 is linear and happy days.

High mount, twin scroll, twin gates or one massive single gate and a modern turbo.

Keep the exhaust pressure down and the motor will live. 

Food for thought, stock motors will happily crank out ~370kW at the wheels for days if you don't abuse them like a wh0re on the track.

  • Like 2

Atr43g3sat with external gate from hypergear looks to be the goods, best response for that power from what ive read and also for the right price

Surprised by all the gtx3071 votes, lots of people talk about using that turbo but ive not really seen too many that do (dyno graphs that is)

21 minutes ago, Findlay said:

Atr43g3sat with external gate from hypergear looks to be the goods, best response for that power from what ive read and also for the right price

Surprised by all the gtx3071 votes, lots of people talk about using that turbo but ive not really seen too many that do (dyno graphs that is)

Not sure if there are many results on the GTX 3071 Gen 2 on an RB25 but here is one:

Its a built motor though, but it also has alot of restrictions. 

 

IMG_1135.thumb.jpg.5ae85b5138d9733d2513845dbca6efd3.jpg
 

 

 

 

For a internally gated setup the flow of the engine system is strongly dependent on the exhaust, so in a common scenario it will be what ever an 3 inches exhaust can flow, and that is usually up to around 400HP wheels. Anything rated to higher power levels is recommended to work with an external gate unless can run a big straight pipe to ground. 

Far as power and response, I recommend our latest Ball bearing ATR43SAT series.  ATR45SAT (Note: ATR45 (3582) and ATR45SAT are very different turbos) is capable of making alot more power if externally gated is in mind.

ATR43G3SAT CBB Power 317rwkws P98 fuel internally gated

ATR43G3SAT CBB Boost 317rwkws P98 fuel internally gated

 

19 hours ago, Die$eL said:

The car is basically stock. 

There's a lot of recommendations made that are going to require a $10k minimum spend to make the car capable of running reliably.  They're not bad ideas, just failing to acknowledge the financials.

Until OP is prepared/able to pony up for all the regular associated upgrades - ECU, cooler, proper exhaust, fuel system, clutch, rubber, brakes, suspension I'd say he's best to stick with a small close to stock sized replacement running low boost eg 10psi and keep motoring until the funds are there.

  • Like 1
44 minutes ago, Dale FZ1 said:

There's a lot of recommendations made that are going to require a $10k minimum spend to make the car capable of running reliably.  They're not bad ideas, just failing to acknowledge the financials.

Until OP is prepared/able to pony up for all the regular associated upgrades - ECU, cooler, proper exhaust, fuel system, clutch, rubber, brakes, suspension I'd say he's best to stick with a small close to stock sized replacement running low boost eg 10psi and keep motoring until the funds are there.

 

Well, if you want to be sensible about it, it doesn't make any sense to buy the "wrong" turbo for his end goal now, just so it won't overrun his injectors and AFM.  Piggie's original recommendation (and mine) implied that he would buy the turbo he wanted AND make sure he had the fuel and management also, although I'll admit that we didn't make that real clear.

Needless to say, the whole exercise is probably best reconsidered.  What the OP really needs is a 2nd hand stock R33 turbo to throw back onto the car until he is actually ready to do the needful.

  • Like 1

But it's SAU, when does anyone listen to sensible recommendations?

My pick would be:

  • Top feed conversion
  • External FPR
  • Wallah bro 460
  • Splitfires
  • Nistune with Feature Pack
  • Continental Flex Sensor
  • EBC of some sort
  • HG G3 Highflow
  • Decent FMIC
  • Decent TBE
  • 1.5/2 way LSD
  • Decent coilovers
  • Traction Rods, Rear camber arms, castor rods, HICAS eliminator
  • Intima SR brake pads all round

Call it a day, 300kW street beast.

5 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

But it's SAU, when does anyone listen to sensible recommendations?

My pick would be:

  • Top feed conversion
  • External FPR
  • Wallah bro 460
  • Splitfires
  • Nistune with Feature Pack
  • Continental Flex Sensor
  • EBC of some sort
  • HG G3 Highflow
  • Decent FMIC
  • Decent TBE
  • 1.5/2 way LSD
  • Decent coilovers
  • Traction Rods, Rear camber arms, castor rods, HICAS eliminator
  • Intima SR brake pads all round

Call it a day, 300kW street beast.

Pretty much just described my car, almost. Can confirm its an awesome setup on E85.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From my youth: GTi-R clutch change is a massive pain. The gearboxes are fragile? But the car is super cool and I want one 😢 
    • Remember this is 1988 tech.
    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
×
×
  • Create New...