Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I’m planning my RB28 build since the engine now isn’t at the condition I want it to be at.

I will only use this car mostly for street and occasionally track days, therefore I want it to be responsive and stealth. My target is around 700whp .

Here is my wish list,

N1 Block
Borg Warner EFR 8374 1.05a/r hotside
Garage Whifbitz T4 Twin wastegate Twin Scroll Manifold
Twin Turbosmart Compgate 40mm external Wastegates
NITTO's RB26DETT 2.8Ltr Stroker Kit
Tomei 1.2mm Headgasket
Tomei Oil Pump
King Bearings
ARP Custom Age 625 Plus Head Stuts
Tomei Procam 260Degree 10.8mm Lift Intake
Tomei Procam 270Degree 10.8mm Lift Exhaust
Tomei Adjustable Cam Wheel
Tomei Type B Valve Springs
Tomei Type B Titanium Retainers
Tomei Bronze Valve Guides
Twin Walbro 450 Fuel Pump with Frenchys Performance Garage Twin Pump In-Tank Fuel System Kit

Earl’s Pro-Lite Ultra Hose -8 AN Feed & -6 AN Return Fuel Line
Plazmaman Fuel Rail
Fuelab Fuel Pressure Regulator
ASNU 1400cc 14 Holes Injectors
Ross Performance Crank Cam Trigger Kit
Haltech Platinum Pro Plug-in ECU
Greddy/Trust Intercooler
Greddy/Trust Radiator
ATS Twin Plate Carbon Clutch
Tomei EXPREME Ti Exhaust

Edited by etang789

Don't get Tomei valve springs, they're made out of a child's faeces, get BC or Supertech.

Don't get Procams, where's @Piggaz? Lol

Don't get a Ross trigger kit, get the Platinum Racing one.

Don't get the Platinum Pro, go Elite 2000 or 2500 (more features and inputs/outputs)

  • Like 1
16 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Don't get Tomei valve springs, they're made out of a child's faeces, get BC or Supertech.

Don't get Procams, where's @Piggaz? Lol

Don't get a Ross trigger kit, get the Platinum Racing one.

Don't get the Platinum Pro, go Elite 2000 or 2500 (more features and inputs/outputs)

I was thinking Ferrea valve springs and valves before.

Which cams would you suggest then?

I prefer the Ross over Platinum Racing because the sensor mount looks more stock and the wiring isn’t just sticking towards front of the car

I already have the Haltech Platinum Pro Plug-In for running a few years already.

1 hour ago, r32-25t said:

Cause it does everything better 

not wrong but a 2.6 is still going to rip lol

23 minutes ago, Dale FZ1 said:

Indeed.  When 3.4 is a tried and tested option.

dont forget to add a billet block to the list

10 hours ago, etang789 said:

I was thinking Ferrea valve springs and valves before.

Which cams would you suggest then?

I prefer the Ross over Platinum Racing because the sensor mount looks more stock and the wiring isn’t just sticking towards front of the car

I already have the Haltech Platinum Pro Plug-In for running a few years already.

Yeah go with those springs OR BC or Supertech, the Tomei rubbish will give you nothing but issues when you start feeding in boost.

CAMS, give Kelford a call/e-mail and tell them what you're doing - I have no faith in those brappy Tomei cams, many have ended up putting in stock cams and/or switched to much lower duration cams so power band is much more usable.

Looks don't mean much, however the PRP kits use cherry sensors and can be fitted to any crank damper/pulley unlike the Ross kits.

Also if you decide to get the PRP you can't use the Haltech Platinum Pro as you can't unlock the trigger settings haha..


Lastly,  why Tomei pump when a Nitto pump can be had? Since you're going Nitto most things, might as well get a Nitto pump.

I noticed the word "Tomei" often repeated in that list as well as GReddy/TRUST way too many times ???

 

7 minutes ago, Leroy Peterson said:

Need Tomei for dat Speedhunters feature

http://www.speedhunters.com/2018/04/project-gt-r-gets-bigger-turbos/

LOL EVEN BIGGER twins, for that crisp lag

Refer back to :

http://www.speedhunters.com/2013/05/project-gtr-and-the-road-to-new-lungs/

  • Like 3
7 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

"Since this first step is all about low-end torque and throttle response, I thought the HKS route would be the best option."

 

Riiiiiightttt :D

 

1 hour ago, WantGTR said:

not wrong but a 2.6 is still going to rip lol

Yes it will but if you ever get to drive a 2.8 you’ll agree that it’s money well spent 

 

if mine lets go the first thing on the shopping list will be a stroker kit

  • Like 1
47 minutes ago, Lithium said:

"Since this first step is all about low-end torque and throttle response, I thought the HKS route would be the best option."

 

Riiiiiightttt :D

 

He probably got discounted shit, just an advertising platform.
You can't go that fast in car parks anyway.

  • Haha 1
3 hours ago, r32-25t said:

Yes it will but if you ever get to drive a 2.8 you’ll agree that it’s money well spent 

 

if mine lets go the first thing on the shopping list will be a stroker kit

Budget Supercar went 9.92 with a stock bottom end. 2.8 or not, thats moving.

I never said it can’t be done but it doesn’t make it the best way to do it or make it a better street car 

there’s a reason maatouks, crd and etc up the capacity, cause it’s better 

9 minutes ago, r32-25t said:

I never said it can’t be done but it doesn’t make it the best way to do it or make it a better street car 

there’s a reason maatouks, crd and etc up the capacity, cause it’s better 

no replacement for displacement :)

(inserts disclaimer about variable CR, cam timing, lift, TS, DI)

5 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Yeah go with those springs OR BC or Supertech, the Tomei rubbish will give you nothing but issues when you start feeding in boost.

CAMS, give Kelford a call/e-mail and tell them what you're doing - I have no faith in those brappy Tomei cams, many have ended up putting in stock cams and/or switched to much lower duration cams so power band is much more usable.

Looks don't mean much, however the PRP kits use cherry sensors and can be fitted to any crank damper/pulley unlike the Ross kits.

Also if you decide to get the PRP you can't use the Haltech Platinum Pro as you can't unlock the trigger settings haha..


Lastly,  why Tomei pump when a Nitto pump can be had? Since you're going Nitto most things, might as well get a Nitto pump.

I noticed the word "Tomei" often repeated in that list as well as GReddy/TRUST way too many times ???

 

Yea I have emailed Kelford already waiting for their reply.

I guess I have to stick with Ross kit unless I switch ECU then

Yea been thinking either Tomei or Nitto for oil pump. Seems more people have used Tomei that’s all.

Reason for Tomei Exhaust is seems like they are the biggest size exhaust that’s off the shelf avaliable and decently priced. Local exhaust shop here is crap so custom make one isn’t an option, can’t accept those Workmanship on my car.

Reason for quite some Greddy/Trust parts is because I bought the car with everything Greddy/Trust installed and unless it’s critical I guess I will keep them.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...