Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I currently have an R32 GTR making 310rwkw's @ 18-20psi (98ron) with a Nistune ECU.

For my next stage of modifications I'm looking to get into the high 300rwkws bracket but was hoping to keep my Nistune.

In speaking to my tuner he's sceptical that it will be up to the task, I understand that a Haltech or Link etc. will do the job better/easier but I would've thought the Nistune would still be up to the task?!?

Current mods and mods to undertake:

  • Garrett -7 turbos (rebuilding to -9 spec)
  • Nistune ECU (hoping to keep)
  • Nismo AFMS (hoping to keep)
  • stock airbox (hoping to keep)
  • 660cc injectors (upgrading to 1250cc)
  • Blitz DSBC (hoping to keep)
  • 98ron (upgrading to E85)
  • stock head gasket (upgrading to metal)
  • stock head studs (upgrading to ARP 2000)
  • stock cooler (upgrading to Plazmaman)
  • stock cams (upgrading to Kelford)
  • stock valve springs (upgrading to BC)
  • Walbro 460 (hoping to keep)
  • Extreme HD clutch (upgrading to Nismo twin plate)

…and yes before anyone chimes in I do realise this could be achieved quite easily with a nice single turbo ;)

 

IMG_7902.JPG

The ECU won't be the problem here. The only problem would be whether the AFM's run out of flow.

Given I've literally never read a scenario where someone running -9's has a problem with AFM's running out of flow you will be entirely fine.

The Nistune can do full flex now, as well as run E85 so don't let that one get in the way either if you want to head down that path.

  • Like 1
4 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

The ECU won't be the problem here. The only problem would be whether the AFM's run out of flow.

Given I've literally never read a scenario where someone running -9's has a problem with AFM's running out of flow you will be entirely fine.

The Nistune can do full flex now, as well as run E85 so don't let that one get in the way either if you want to head down that path.

Exactly what my thought process was going into this......

Cheers!

Yuh.  So long as the pulse width and spark can be controlled, there's no reason to not use Nistune.  By the way, that "so long as" condition is entirely rhetorical.  Of course it can.

The limitations starts to come down to things like the CAS, more than the ECU or even the AFMs.  You can upgrade the AFMs easily enough.  But you can't use a better crank trigger against the Nistune.  It would be good for Matt to make a feature pack that allows the ECU to use simpler and more robust trigger patterns though.

  • Like 3
13 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Yuh.  So long as the pulse width and spark can be controlled, there's no reason to not use Nistune.  By the way, that "so long as" condition is entirely rhetorical.  Of course it can.

The limitations starts to come down to things like the CAS, more than the ECU or even the AFMs.  You can upgrade the AFMs easily enough.  But you can't use a better crank trigger against the Nistune.  It would be good for Matt to make a feature pack that allows the ECU to use simpler and more robust trigger patterns though.

Makes plenty of sense to me..... ?

Very interested in the outcome as your before / after have similarities with my current setup and what I intend on upgrading to.

Isn't high 300s optimistic for -9s though? I thought that 350ish was typical for -9s.

You haven't mentioned the exhaust setup but I assume that you have a high flowing large diameter zorst?

27 minutes ago, Robzilla32 said:

Very interested in the outcome as your before / after have similarities with my current setup and what I intend on upgrading to.

Isn't high 300s optimistic for -9s though? I thought that 350ish was typical for -9s.

You haven't mentioned the exhaust setup but I assume that you have a high flowing large diameter zorst?

Hey Rob,

I too thought this initially was probably a little optimistic but I'm basing my build roughly of what ActionDan achieved and from memory he netted around 380rwkws...

Remember this will be E85 and aftermarket cams/valve springs...

My issue is going to be more along the lines of my intake side of things I reckon, I want to retain the standard airbox, intake piping, Nismo AFM's etc... Basically pop the bonnet and it look standard to the untrained eye...

and yes I have a full 3.5" custom exhaust setup...

IMG_4670.JPG

IMG_4671.JPG

Edited by mr_rbman
  • Like 1
5 minutes ago, niZmO_Man said:

Nismo AFM = Z32 guts in standard AFM body IIRC

Not quite.  It's supposed to be 65mm body (same as normal RB26) but with flow vs. voltage curve that is same as Z32.  So the internals aren't "the same as" Z32, because that wouldn't work.  But the combo of the small body and the sensor calibration makes them "look like" a Z32 to an ECU.

  • Like 2

Nice zorst!

I had a good look at ActionDan's build and asked a few follow up questions as he had attained some good numbers all right.

I will be looking at similar mods: Kelford Cams, HPI dumps, custom exhaust, bigger injectors, Plazmaman cooler, AC Delco coilpacks etc. But like you, trying to retain the stock engine bay look with factory airbox / snorkel, piping, Nismo AFMs etc.

Will see how it all goes. I have 308KW at the moment which was fine when the original build was done as the drivetrain was ancient but I now have a brand new gearbox / clutch, recoed tailshaft and the diffs are next so happy to have a bit more torque.

I have similar set up as yours and also getting about ~300rwkw on 17psi with 93 AKI (not sure what that is in RON), so I'm interested to see your new results.

I'm confident Nistune won't be an issue for you, and my tuner had done plenty of +400kw Z32s on Nistune with stock Z32 AFMs so I'm sure your other hardware is up to the task as well.

On 7/6/2018 at 4:53 PM, GTSBoy said:

Not quite.  It's supposed to be 65mm body (same as normal RB26) but with flow vs. voltage curve that is same as Z32.  So the internals aren't "the same as" Z32, because that wouldn't work.  But the combo of the small body and the sensor calibration makes them "look like" a Z32 to an ECU.

Ah right, I read about them a long time ago, guess time degrades memory.

Also I believe MINE's made basically the same thing.

Ah right, I read about them a long time ago, guess time degrades memory.

Also I believe MINE's made basically the same thing.

 

MINE's made the same thing, but with RB25 AFM internals in stock RB26 65mm housing.

 

On 7/10/2018 at 7:17 PM, BakemonoRicer said:

Spending all that extra money you are nuts to retain twins.

Those things were in fashion last century

Seriously, go an EFR! Those things are magic and you wont be wasting your money doing things twice!!

Refer to last line of original post.... ;)

surprised it actually took 16 odd posts for it to be mentioned :-P

  • Haha 1
  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. A 3d wheel alignment is like $120...just take it to the shop. Since theres probably multiple adjustments that need to be made after changing something. Mine has front/rear lower arms, traction rods, tension rods, camber arms, toe arms, front upper arms, hicas kit, sway bars and coilovers. I measure from the edge of the bolt holes on the originals and set the same length on all the adjustable stuff to dial it as close as I could to OEM. Took it straight for alignment; it didnt feel right at all...after alignment, it feels perfect. Similarly i've just changed the springs on another car; and I still needed multiple adjustments to bring it back in spec.
    • A full Veilside kitted JZA80 Supra in Meriken park in Kobe city a few weeks back
    • Its a well known brand in New Zealand; its a rebrand of the Rhino RAV3.  I don't know what the wiring difference *is* between the rev.1 (installed about 15 years ago) and rev.2; but as you say I would think its reasonable that it uses the same immobiliser relay circuits. I had a look but couldnt see a similar harness; but didnt move things around since I didnt want to mess with it   It was one of AVS well known Authorised Installers; I spoke to AVS themselves about it but theyre unsure hence seeking advice more so from the skyline community who are more familiar with the actual car and its wiring. Im in Auckland; but the installer is on the other side of the city so hes very reluctant to come back to even look at it to confirm something isnt connected into the wrong wire.  I dont want to drop the name since they *did* do a really good job for the most part. Everything is very tidy and he fully replaced all the alarm wiring, all the sensors, the wiring to the door motors, installed a switch which was never installed in the first place...really happy with the alarm install itself..just not this one issue. We all make mistakes, if it is the alarm, I just want my fuel pump getting proper switched, fused, power as it was; without having to shell out for an auto electrician to switch a wire and tell me it was the alarm. 
    • Even with the piston at TDC there was room for it to drop, but I don't think it can drop fully into the cylinder, the problem you have is that you need something pushing against the valve to hold it up so you have enough room to put the new stem seal on and the spring etc.  I used compressed air only because putting rope in the cylinder seemed a bit risky to me, I know people have done it countless times before like this. Overall it's a pain in the ass job. Honestly you'd probably be better off taking the head off because the risk of dropping something in the engine and the finicky-ness of it all is very stressful. If you are going to attempt it though i 10000% recommend a 36050 valve spring/keeper tool. I had both the traditional lever type and after doing 1 cylinder it was absolute pain to get those valve keepers in place, even with 2 people. That 36050 is amazing, you do have to push hard to get them in place but it works perfectly almost every time. Back to my actual issue I think my engine is just tired and old and the rings have gone bad. The comp numbers (cold, no oil) were: Cyl 1 -129psi Cyl 2 - 133psi Cyl 3 - 138psi Cyl 4 - 137psi Cyl 5 - 157psi Cyl 6 - 142psi   Cylinder 5 and 6 having the most carbon on them.
    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
×
×
  • Create New...