Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Chasing up a dyno sheet so we can do a little more analysis.

reality is I need stronger wastegates, but the car is just a response monster and it pulls like a freight train, I really don’t need the extra power just yet...especially when a C63 AMG couldn’t hold a candle to this don mega build....

1 hour ago, BakemonoRicer said:

Ben, yes Nismo R1 turbos on the car.

Everyone says they're akin to -7's but that makes no sense, I'm making 30kw more than what people estimated.

They certainly didn't let the Nissan out in this build Benny, because they built it with mostly stock engine components. ProSTOCK build. Even stock ECU ?‍♂️

  • Like 1

Well they put the fruit in the head. But I wish the bottom end was more fruity...

I'm suprised the owner didn't pay the little bit extra to run a set of forged rods......

Scott did laugh at the tune. The japs just love to throw a lot of fuel into it and be done with it.

 

That's about normal boost response for those size of turbos I thought? Especially when you have a half decent head. Remember manifold pressure does not equal lb/min of flow, it just means the turbos have pressurised the intake to that level. What's more important is rear wheel torque at 3900pm or wherever you're wanting to measure from. 

My head was stock, but I had cams and gears and  it made about 20psi at 38-3900 rpm on it's way to 24-25psi, which it almost held to redline. As per my opther comments, the turbos were at their limit and being outflowed, just like yours (mine were newer spec -9s with the better centre cartridge). 

Traffic light grand prix is fun, just don't blow 3rd :D

785nm of torque mate.
Don't want to take anything away from the result but it aint 785nm. Dyno was not set to derived torque which is the accurate at wheel reading on mainlines. Its more like 550-570nm which is still pretty stout.
On 14/07/2019 at 6:17 PM, BakemonoRicer said:

Ben, yes Nismo R1 turbos on the car.

Everyone says they're akin to -7's but that makes no sense, I'm making 30kw more than what people estimated.

You absolutely sure they are Nismo R1 then ? Output of over 350kw at only 20psi on 98ron seems very high does it not ? Also can you tell me how is R1 different than -7 turbos ? The specs supplied look identical to me. If I am missing something enlighten me as I am curious. Also your derived torque is on the bottom graph of your dyno sheet which is clearly under 600Nm as mentioned.

Nismo R1 Turbo: (Specs from RHD Japan)

Compressor Housing: T3 (A/R 0.42)
Compressor Wheel: T3 (Trim 55)
Bearing: Ball Bearing
Turbine Housing: T25 (A/R 0.64)
Turbine Wheel: GT25 (Trim 62)

Max. efficiency: 73%
Max. air pressure ratio (at boost pressure): 103% (1.35kg/cm2)


Garrett 707160-7 Turbo: (specs from Garrett)

Compressor Housing: T3 (A/R 0.42)
Compressor Wheel: T3 (Trim 55) - Ind: 44.5mm - Exd: 60.0mm
Bearing: Ball Bearing
Turbine Housing: T25 (A/R 0.64)
Turbine Wheel: GT25 (Trim 62) - Wheel Dia: 53.8mm

As abov Benny, Derived Torque is different. 

Here's an earlier graph before we finished tuning the car (it only ended up going to 380) and as you can see, and knowing the setup, there's no way it was making a genuine 1000Nm lol 

It was "zippy" but I wouldn't have called it a torque monster, it was only a 2.6 in the end. 

20170522_201505.jpg.305f37c5f5378da8355f9b640c5ba425.jpg

12 hours ago, admS15 said:
13 hours ago, BakemonoRicer said:
785nm of torque mate.

Don't want to take anything away from the result but it aint 785nm. Dyno was not set to derived torque which is the accurate at wheel reading on mainlines. Its more like 550-570nm which is still pretty stout.

am i missing something, it says derived torque on the dyno sheet?

yeah that's right it does show derived torque, just not at 785nm . Dunno where 785nm come from as the derived torque graph clearly shows increments of 50nm vertical blocks, and is labelled as such with 200 at 4th block, 400 at 8th block and has 11 blocks shown. So just under top of 11th block is about 540nm, similar to around what admS15 mentioned. I'm still intrigued at the 356.4kw at wheels on 20psi with 98. I have GT-SS turbos on my 33 which are almost the same turbo as -7 / R1 except with a larger compressor trim of 56 (vs R1 with 55 trim) and I can't get near that.

Usually it dynos at 310 - 330kw on 98ron at 22psi. Runs mid 11s at anywhere between 116 and 120mph.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...