Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

I have been to broke to do anything to the GTR the last few weeks hence the lack of updates, but finally getting a few items picked up this weekend hopefully.

I am currently looking into how I am going to restore the bolts and nuts, brackets etc used around the whole car, namely suspension at this stage.

My plan of attack is currently to purchase a vibratory tumbler and zinc plating setup. I also have access to a small sand blaster for items that won't fit within the tumbler.

Vibratory Tumblers, also known as case tumblers are available at gun shops so will pick one up in town for $95 in the coming weeks. Much like the one below on ebay.

At this stage I believe a walnut media will be suitable for getting the right finish on the hardware. If anyone has experience with tumbling bolts etc some advice would be sweet.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Max-clean-3-5l-Electronic-Brass-Case-Tumbler-Reloading-Media-Cleaning-Case-Clean/183475533028?epid=22026939511&hash=item2ab7fe74e4:g:Df8AAOSwZw1buslt

 https://www.caswellplating.com.au/store/store.php/products/copy-cad-or-zinc-plating-kit-6-litre

Once zinc plating is completed, I am thinking that using a black chromate on them will be an awesome final touch.

https://www.caswellplating.com.au/store/store.php/products/black-chromate-concentrate

an example of a zinc then chromated bolt is attached. Much better than painting.

 

Hopefully on monday I will pick up the front rolling gear. I would start stripping this straight away to prepare for resto but I actually need to take the car to a fabrication workshop in the next month or so for some work to get done on the frame rails (classic dented in 32 things i'm sure you are all aware of haha). 

So unfortunately I will be putting the front subframe, suspension etc in the car at this stage. I will also be putting in the rear subframe out of the red gtst just so it rolls and can get on the trailer to go to the workshop. 

Also picking up something for the eventual engine tomorrow, 10 hr drive ahead of me.

chromate.jpg

Edited by Tenny

Alrighty, so this weekend was mega expensive and im feeling it haha.

Ended up taking a 10 hr round trip to bundaberg to pick up some 26 covers. Was a decent price so can't complain. 

Then yesterday i went to jdm autoparts in brissy to get: 

Front subframe, body loom, attessa ecu, attessa res, subframe mounting bracket thingies, speedo cable, etc.

Then, last night i decided to order a brand new front lip off justjap because nismo heritage has more than doubled the price. RIP. Justjap had some for $600.

Also thought id order the front bar and indicators from kudos which is another $900.

Will get those in the next few weeks but will be storing for a long time yet ha.

Next on the agenga will be to get the car rolling so its ready to go to brissy for some work on the rails.

 

20190505_111153.jpg

20190505_111608.jpg

20190505_111623.jpg

20190505_111835.jpg

20190505_112029.jpg

20190505_112118.jpg

20190505_112139.jpg

20190505_112209.jpg

20 minutes ago, Robzilla32 said:
26 minutes ago, jmknights93 said:
The front lip price jump is very annoying and shame on Nissan for doing that... They've been available for years...

Tell me about it. The price on Kudos has doubled.

got on my nerves a little bit. Totally a cash grab. hence Im getting the front bar..before it goes up too.

11 hours ago, Tenny said:

got on my nerves a little bit. Totally a cash grab. hence Im getting the front bar..before it goes up too.

The "N1" bar totally not worth the extra coin considering the vent holes look as though they've been cut by a 5 year old with a die grinder. I've attached a great reference image that I found on the forum a few years ago in case you were going that route?

486253328_N1VentAlingment(9).thumb.jpg.0cc7c9cab2e9629667228fac0444e7e2.jpg

2 hours ago, jmknights93 said:

The "N1" bar totally not worth the extra coin considering the vent holes look as though they've been cut by a 5 year old with a die grinder. I've attached a great reference image that I found on the forum a few years ago in case you were going that route?

486253328_N1VentAlingment(9).thumb.jpg.0cc7c9cab2e9629667228fac0444e7e2.jpg

Yeah, not getting the N1 bar, just normal GTR. My gtst has a genuine N1 bar on it which I bought brand new in 2015 - $250 haha. I also have a genuine N1 reo i bought at the same time for $250 thru nissan as well.

If I can't find a 32 gtr front reo for a decent price, I may steal the N1 from my gtst. The normal GTR bar will fit fine on that.

 

 

  • Like 1

Going price for front reo bar used at the moment is around $700 - $1000, USED !!!! That was everywhere I've checked as I was after one, but fk that ! Good pic of the N1 cutouts too, just about to do it myself.

  • Like 1
2 minutes ago, r32-25t said:

You can get a brand new r33 one for 580 and is same as a 32 n1 reo apart from where the mounting holes are drilled, with a bit of measuring can easily be redrilled to fit 

Did see that. pretty cool trick.

16 hours ago, Tenny said:

Just jap was $15 to ship from Sydney to Toowoomba..

Ah well that has changed significantly.  I had another look and the freight is now down to less than $100.  So I guess what Iw ould have paid in freight now goes on the part.

Did you get enough bolts with the lip to attach it or just a handful or do you have to order them separate?

13 minutes ago, djr81 said:

Ah well that has changed significantly.  I had another look and the freight is now down to less than $100.  So I guess what Iw ould have paid in freight now goes on the part.

Did you get enough bolts with the lip to attach it or just a handful or do you have to order them separate?

Not too sure didn't have a proper look. But id say it would be enough to mount it properly. It just came with the lip i didn't order anything separately.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Got around to picking up rear subframe and put them both in this arvo so it will roll on the trailer for rail / sandblast work.

 

Its still a shelf at the moment unfortunately but hope to get some pallet racking or similar soon to make better use of the area. About to lose over half my shed to new home owners :(

Does anyone bave reccomendstions for a good vlaster in brissy / seqld area that can do the engine bay, boot floor and window trims etc?

20190601_161445.jpg

20190601_135807.jpg

20190601_161537.jpg

  • 2 months later...

Don't have much of an update unfortunately.

In the process of buying a house so time and money has been elsewhere recently. I have sold all my other cars (green r32 and r31) so i only have the gtr to focus on now once im setup in the new place. 

Renovations are needed at the house too so im sure this will slow down even more unfortunately :(

Thought i might chuck up a few photos just to show that nothing has changed ?

 

20190818_195215.jpg

20190818_195648.jpg

20190818_203727.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...