Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1 hour ago, thenixtone said:

Hey guys,

 

So I was defected tonight lol, for my 50/50 blow off valve and carbon fiber bonnet.

How easy is it to fix the bov problem / what would i need? I have no idea..

 

Cheers..

How a out a stock blow off valve ?

man I am smart. Why are you confused?

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, thenixtone said:

I'm making like 19psi, arent the stock ones rated to 8psi or something??

Well no, the stock one isn't rated. But have you considered swapping stuff to get the defect off then putting it back on after?

I think it has been done before, a cheeky little trick car guys do.

  • Like 1

"

3 hours ago, thenixtone said:

 what would i need? I have no idea..

loooool...you don't have ANY ideas? not even one? like putting fkn stock parts back on to clear the defect??

I know, i'm a genius, a real out of the box thinker.

 

Only really 2 options

1. Easy cheap fix

Stututututu

2. More expensive fix with the added benifit of reliability = LS swap 

Seriously, if you have maaaaad pipe work and "stuff" post a pick of what you have so people know what you are dealing with

 

Go option 1 

 

14 hours ago, thenixtone said:

Hey guys,

 

So I was defected tonight lol, for my 50/50 blow off valve and carbon fiber bonnet.

How easy is it to fix the bov problem / what would i need? I have no idea..

 

Cheers..

Hello thenixtone,

I think some places do full recirculation blow off valves. I think they got you on venting to atmosphere. Have a quick look at turbosmart webpage. 

And maybe visit a wrecker to get your hands on a factory bonnet. 

Sounds like you got a lot of leniency, count your blessings bruv.

13 hours ago, thenixtone said:

I'm making like 19psi, arent the stock ones rated to 8psi or something??

Are you talking about your BOV or your wastegate?  I think you have the two confused.

A std BOV will work for your setup just as easy as some aftermarket setup, just won't look as bling!!!

2 hours ago, Ben C34 said:

Anyway good work, acting dumb can help with cops, good work staying committed.

I don't have any stock parts as the car came like this, so rather than waste money on stock parts that aren't good enough, I'd want to get the right thing. 9k posts and shitting on people with less experience, gotta love the community, not the first time you've been a tosswank on here though is it

So what is your actual question? The Problem you can't figure out? You want to find a plumback blow off valve to suit 18psi?have you tried at all or just hoping others will read your mind and tell you exactly what to do.

 

Your post really doesn't say much, certainly doesn't imply you want to fix things properly and not just do a stock swap over.

If this is your first time with a defect get ready for a world of pain on inspection.

55 minutes ago, thenixtone said:

I don't have any stock parts as the car came like this, so rather than waste money on stock parts that aren't good enough, I'd want to get the right thing. 9k posts and shitting on people with less experience, gotta love the community, not the first time you've been a tosswank on here though is it

So what is your question?  Is it will a stock bov work with the tune and/or boost level you have?

If the answer is more than your boost level then get a stock item.

If the answer if vague and or lower then in the olden days people used BOV's from GT-R's which can look pretty stock.

I dont know the answer as I have no clue what motor you have.

I suspect that the bonnet and the bov will be the tip of an unhappy iceberg when the car gets properly inspected, however.

While I dont disagree with your point above it helps to give some context to your questions.  This being th einternet things can get misconstrued and more information helps make it look like whoever is asking the question will make an effort to follow through with a solution.

1 hour ago, thenixtone said:

I don't have any stock parts as the car came like this, so rather than waste money on stock parts that aren't good enough, I'd want to get the right thing. 9k posts and shitting on people with less experience, gotta love the community, not the first time you've been a tosswank on here though is it

You want help ask sensible questions and listen to the answers.

Stock bov is good enough.

Metal bonnet is good enough. Carbon fibre bonnets are considered a danger (do the research to find out why). 

2 hours ago, thenixtone said:

I don't have any stock parts as the car came like this, so rather than waste money on stock parts that aren't good enough, I'd want to get the right thing. 

that's somewhat fair enough, but it's best to do some research and try to help yourself first though. It's not a 'new guy' thing though, plenty of newbies on here get good help n advice. 

And if you drive a modified car, getting pulled off by the cops (off the road, i mean) is always a risk. Check over your car, see what mods it has, check the NCOP and see if you need to change it or get a mod plate, or run the risk and accept the consequences. 

The Turbosmart plumb back Kompact Bov for a RB25 is what you want.


Alternatively, swapping a stock one on for the inspection is an issue. If you want 'performance' over the stock BOV and the ability to never worry again about legalities, at the cost of 'wooshy sounds' the kompact plumb back is what you want,

 

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
    • That's some really horrible design with the way it's cut/shaped! Is there much damage to the box that failed in? IE, new fork and you can go again, or is it a total rebuild again? Id be trying to build that piece from scratch, and getting some reliefs added in the corner to hopefully stop breakage, and then swapping boxes ASAP, and then doing the same to the currently good working box. I'm assuming hard shifts have not been friendly to it!
×
×
  • Create New...