Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day ppl could I get pointers on a full rebuild of anRB@% GTST Series II engine for 500 to 1000 hp. I'm after horsepower and reliability together I dont want to be breaking somthing all the time lol. How much roughly could the rebuild cost aswell rough figures of what other ppl have spent and the ideas aswell would be helpfull. Im also south of brissy qld so any shop recommendations would be greatfull to.

For a start go to the Forced Induction section and look at the RB25 turbo upgrade thread. You will see what people have done to their cars to get more power. Start at the end to avoid a load of outdated gear.

And there is a huge difference both in power and in money between 500 and 1000hp so have a think about how much power you really want.

  • Like 1

Estimate at $40k to get everything going reliably 

im guessing u will be paying a workshop as u if you knew what u were doing u wouldn’t be asking such a vague question 

LOL, reliability for what use?

Dyno queen

Street car

Track hack

Sprints

You need lots of cubes, lots of strong parts, and some boost.

What transmission and drivetrain you using, that stuff can start eating itself at 400hp, let alone being reliable at 500-1000hp, for "some" reliability I would budget around 60-80k, easy, maybe more.

Your also going to need a "spare stash of cash" for when your "reliable setup" breaks.

And it will.

  • Like 2
On 5/28/2020 at 4:53 PM, Ben C34 said:

What can you do? Cmon man, this thread is ultra vague!

Well at the moment mate I'm rebuilding a LS3 engine out of a senator from ground up and my skyline is my next project I was just seeing what other people thoughts were hoping there was people on here to throw out ideas I might not have thought of

On 5/28/2020 at 5:26 PM, mlr said:

LOL, reliability for what use?

Dyno queen

Street car

Track hack

Sprints

You need lots of cubes, lots of strong parts, and some boost.

What transmission and drivetrain you using, that stuff can start eating itself at 400hp, let alone being reliable at 500-1000hp, for "some" reliability I would budget around 60-80k, easy, maybe more.

Your also going to need a "spare stash of cash" for when your "reliable setup" breaks.

And it will.

Cheers bro I'm setting up for street n track I been researching and I'm just going to aim for 500hp I'm going to run a 6 speed manual transmission and I can apparently get a 9 inch diff made 

23 minutes ago, MrSINNER said:

Cheers bro I'm setting up for street n track I been researching and I'm just going to aim for 500hp I'm going to run a 6 speed manual transmission and I can apparently get a 9 inch diff made 

Nothing wrong with the RB diff.

50 minutes ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Nothing wrong with the RB diff.

Really mate I haven't really had much to do with the RB parts as a whole I been into more V8's but I am really loving the RB's. I have seen the limited slip upgrade for them is that the better way to go?

33 minutes ago, MrSINNER said:

Really mate I haven't really had much to do with the RB parts as a whole I been into more V8's but I am really loving the RB's. I have seen the limited slip upgrade for them is that the better way to go?

Kaaz 2-way into the centre and off you go :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HFM BM57 has a "bad" knee point, IIRC. It's not the same thing as the later R chassis MC.
    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
×
×
  • Create New...