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Another BK R32 GTR money pit...


BK
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On 30/08/2022 at 11:57 AM, BK said:

Nah not factory, I mentioned earlier the car was originally KH2 gunmetal grey and looks to have been changed to 326 Crystal white in Japan. I'm glad,  I hate KH2. I think the KH2 grey is a terribly cheap looking colour - we had it on a previous R32 GTR I owned. We resprayed it again early last year when the side sills were being replaced.

Going for a drive now for a couple of hundred k to just check everything.

Sorry I've forgotten more that I've read on this site than i remember 🤣

Enjoy the drive you lucky bastard!!

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On 30/08/2022 at 3:01 PM, Shoota_77 said:

Sorry I've forgotten more that I've read on this site than i remember 🤣

Enjoy the drive you lucky bastard!!

👍

Car was flawless. Dad drove it down to Stuarts well with me following in the Hilux just in case,  we swapped on the way back...

Being in the NT with out very loose 130kph speed limit I tested it out a bit. All sensors functioning normally - no leaks or smoke, fuel system PWM works great, max 82 coolant, 39 fuel temp at 65% pump speed duty, intake temps at 26, about 48psi fuel and 60psi oil pressure at 3500rpm at 130kph, oil temp 80 at up to 200kph on Penrite 15w-40 run in mineral oil. Pulls about 0.5psi boost at 3500rpm on 130kph cruising speed using about 430cc - 450cc per minute of 98. It feels great at 130 - 150kph overtaking speeds and is completely effortless, even passing a cop or two with a wave 👋 

WRX and GTR group hug afterwards 

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On 1/8/2021 at 7:51 AM, BK said:

I have a solution...

 

IMG_20201212_111948_9.jpg

IMG_20201212_111939_2.jpg

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Brand new outer sills from Japan. Not cheap at $2300 delivered incl. Tax

Hot damn those are lovely. Trying to get a pair myself but it seems like no spot anywhere has any.

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Hi there. It seems one side was discontinued a month or so after I got them. Keep your eye out though as they do pop up at shops occasionally. I saw a new pair at Vega motorsports advertised.

Failing that Yahoo Japan auctions will probably be the last option, as nearly anything you can think of discontinued is still generally being sold.

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So with the racing done and no major issues or failures, time to start fine tuning things. A big shout out to Paul @Piggaz and Brett @r32-25tfor helping me out with a couple of parts to get this car on the road and racing in time 👍

After discovering the timing issue with the existing crank angle sensor retarding the whole map by about 15 degrees the 6466 on the 2.6 kicks arse. 6466 T4 1.00 a/r is not too big for a stock cammed 2.6 litre with 8.5:1 CR. Actually, I'd go so far as to say this is the smallest single turbo I'd recommend for an upgrade path on an RB26 and will definitely be sticking with Precision turbos as they just perform so damn good. Other things I liked about the car was the stock rebuilt gearbox is smooth, the ATS twin carbon clutch is excellent, unknown rear diff centre performs well (only part of the car we haven't touched so far) and the HKS Hipermax III coilovers are actually really, really good.

So the next things to obtain and fit to improve the car will be:

-NZ cam trigger kit. Crank angle sensors are so shit and unreliable, but won't be doing a full crank trigger at this stage.

-Adjustable rear upper control arms. Need to dial out some camber as we all know.

-Frenchys interior clock fix. I can't handle things in the interior not working.

-Strip off the bubbling rear window tint without stuffing up the rear window demister.

When have some cash to splash on this car the Splitfires will make way for R35 coilpacks, 1000cc Denso injectors to be swapped with Bosch 1650cc's, PWR or Plazmaman intercooler upgrade and piss off the Xforce Varex muffler for a decent unrestricted AES one. Until then I'll continue to road tune before heading back to Morpowa next year to flex fuel tune it and send it on E85.

At this stage its good to not have any broken GT-R's anymore ! 👌

Complete current specs of the expensive restoration / budget performance build 32...

 

NOVEMBER 1989 NISSAN BNR32 SKYLINE GT-R – BNR32-003217

 

 

·        ENGINE – SHORT

·  R33 RB26 long nose crankshaft – standard size bearing journals (Thanks Brett 👍)

·  Spool drag pro forged 4340 steel 121.5mm I-beam conrods

·  ARP 2000 7/16” rod bolts

·  CP forged 2618 aluminium 86.5mm pistons – 8.5:1 comp ratio (top ring 1.2mm, 2nd ring 1.5mm)

·  ACL race main + conrod bearings -HX 0.025mm extra clearance 0.001”

·  Nitto RB high pressure / high volume oil pump

·  Nissan 05U R33 RB26 block – 86.5mm bore

·  Tomei triple layer metal head gasket 1.2mm / 87mm

·  Nitto 1.1mm head to block oil restrictor

·  ARP 8740 main studs

·  ARP 2000 head studs – 12mm

·  Gates racing timing belt

·  Nissan / Pitwork aircon, power steer and alternator belts

·  Ross performance hi-tensile lower timing gear and shield kit

·  ARP crankshaft balancer bolt – M18

·  Standard Nissan OEM R32 GTR harmonic balancer

·  Standard Nissan OEM R32 GTR standard 8 blade water pump

·  Ross performance heat exchanger delete plate

·  Standard Nissan OEM 76c thermostat

·  Hi octane racing cast alloy 8.5 - 9 litre capacity sump, swing gated baffles

 

·        ENGINE – HEAD AND TURBO

·  Precision Gen2 CEA PT6466 1.00 a/r divided T4 turbocharger

·  Trust divided T4 single gate T78 turbo manifold

·  GCG hi-tensile M8 manifold and M10 turbo flange studs

·  HKS metal exhaust manifold gaskets, ECS copper lock nuts M8

·  Permaseal 5 layer stainless divided T4 flange gasket, ECS copper lock nuts M10 x 1.25

·  Turbosmart 50mm Progate gen4 external wastegate

·  Turbosmart 6mm reinforced silicone gate to boost control vacuum lines

·  Blitz DD super sound blow off valves x 2

·  Aeroflow 4” carbon series pod air filter

·  Turbosmart ORP40 oil pressure supply regulator w/ AN4 Speedflow 200 lines – return direct to Hi octane racing sump

·  Taarks / EFI solutions AN4 turbo oil supply inline filter

·  Standard OEM RB26 valve guides and 05U valves

·  Standard OEM RB26 camshafts

·  Standard OEM RB26 cam cap bolts

·  Supertech viton valve stem seals

·  Supertech M1007S single 70 lbs valve springs with titanium retainers

·  HKS metal throttle body gaskets

·  Tomei metal intake manifold gasket

·  Tomei adjustable camshaft gears

 

·        ENGINE-OTHER

·  Custom aluminium catch can w/ AN10 breather lines – PCV valve deleted

·  Franklin engineering head breather / drain kit with 100 series AN10 braided line to rear block turbo oil return

·  HKS 80mm cast alloy intercooler hard piping kit

·  Standard OEM R32 GTR 60mm intercooler

·  HKS 12 row oil cooler and filter relocation kit - 70c thermostat, Nismo oil filter

·  Standard Nissan OEM R32 GTR radiator, fan shroud and viscous fan

·  JJR silicone heater and radiator hoses

·  R134A aircon conversion

·  R33 charcoal canister

 

·        EXHAUST

·  3.5”/ 90mm mild steel front pipe

·  Venom 316 stainless 5” body 100cpi cat converter

·  50mm wastegate outlet plumbed into system with 304 stainless 2”pipe

·  3.5” / 90mm cat back mild steel section to stainless Xforce varex muffler

 

·        ENGINE MANAGEMENT / ELECTRICAL

·  Haltech ELITE 2000 ECU

·  Haltech GTR elite plug and play harness

·  Haltech WB1 wideband kit with Bosch LSU 4.9 sensor

·  Haltech flex fuel / temp sensor

·  Haltech 4 bar MAP sensor

·  Haltech 150psi fuel pressure sensor

·  Haltech 3 port MAC valve boost control solenoid

·  Haltech GM air temp sensor

·  Bosch 10bar / 140deg oil pressure and temp sensor

·  Standard OEM RB26 crank angle sensor

·  Standard Nissan OEM 90A alternator

·  Hitachi RB starter motor

·  Splitfire DIS-001 coilpacks

·  NGK Iridium IX spark plugs BCPR7EIX  – 0.8mm gap

·  Supercharge GOLD plus MF55B24 battery

 

·        FUEL SYSTEM

·  Haltech 100A Kudom SY4086 SSR mounted on aluminium heatsink under HICAS unit for PWM pump speed control

·  2 x 40A Narva backup relays for full time fuel pump control in case of SSR failure

·  6 x Sard / Denso low impedance 1000cc at 3bar injectors

·  Denso high guide injector connector plug conversion

·  Turbosmart FPR1200 adjustable fuel pressure regulator

·  Turbosmart 38mm 100 psi fuel pressure gauge

·  Sard 11mm twin entry fuel rail

·  Speedflow 200 single AN8 to twin AN6 braided lines pump to rail feeds. Single AN8 return line.

·  Gates submersible 3/8” 100psi hose in-tank fuel lines

·  1 x Walbro 525lph F90000285 E85 in tank fuel pump – PWM speed controlled via SSR

·  10mm2  fuel pump supply cabling, 30A maxi blade fuse and holder in engine bay – 13.8v at pump

·  Speedflow 602, AN8 40 micron supply fuel filter

·        DRIVELINE

· Standard FS5R30A R32 GTR transmission rebuilt – early synchro type

· Transfer case rebuilt and modified to 10 plate clutchpack

· Nismo push type chromoly release fork pivot ball

· ATS spec 1 carbon twin plate push type clutch, 1350kg pressure plate, 6.5kg Chromoly flywheel

· Standard OEM Nissan 3/4” push clutch slave cylinder

· Nismo transmission mount

· Superpro polyurethane transmission crossmember bushes

· HEL performance braided direct clutch line to slave

· Standard front open differential

· GKtech rear subframe aluminium collars

· Whiteline rear polyurethane diff mount bushes

· Unknown brand rear limited slip differential, but it locks hard

 

·        BRAKES AND SUSPENSION

· Front calliper – Standard R32 GTR Sumitomo 4 piston w/ QFM pads

· Front rotor – Project Mu SCR slotted and ventilated rotors

· Rear calliper – Standard R32 GTR Sumitomo twin piston w/ QFM pads

· Rear rotor – RDA ventilated rotors

· BM50 1” ABS master cylinder

· Superpro polyurethane steering rack bushes

· GKtech polyurethane steering shaft bushing

· Standard R32 GTR front and rear swaybars

· Prospec front aluminium strut tower brace with integral master cylinder stopper

· Cusco spherical joint adjustable front castor tension rods

· Nismo front upper control arms

· HKS Hipermax III full height 30 way damper adjustable coilover suspension - 7kg front / 6kg rear spring rates

·        WHEELS AND TYRES

· Standard R32 GTR wheels 16” x 8” offset +30

· 225/50R16 crappy no name china tyres

· Rays engineering security wheel nuts

(Currently fitted with standard 33 GTR 17 x 9 +30 wheels on 245/45R17 Hankook Ventus RS4 tyres)

 

·        INTERIOR

· 2 x R33 GTR series 1 seats

· Blitz billet alloy gearshift knob

· Sony 4 x 50w CD head unit, Alpine speakers

· Nismo 260km/h speedometer gauge

· Haltech 52mm GaugeArt canbus gauge

· ART fire extinguisher CAMS approved bracket + 1kg Chubb ABE extinguisher

· Sparco sports steering wheel

· HKB ON-110 steering wheel boss adapter

 

·        EXTERIOR

· Respray to 326 Crystal white (original KH2 gunmetal grey)

· Genuine R32 GTR series 2 full ABS plastic bodykit

· R32 N1 front reinforcement bar with genuine N1 bumper intake ducts

· FRP vented bonnet – unknown make, looks cool

· Series 1 projector headlights with H3C low beam / H3 high beam Phillips 55w crystal vision 4300k globes

· H4 headlight relay harness conversion

 

·        OILS AND FLUIDS

· Engine oil – Castrol Edge 10w-60

· Coolant – Nulon type A green stuff concentrate 40/60 mix

· Brake fluid – Castrol React performance Dot 4

· Power steering – Castrol ATF Dex III

· ATTESA hydraulics – Castrol ATF Dex III

· Transmission – Castrol VMX-M 75w-85 gl-4

· Transfer case – Castrol Transmax Z

· Front diff – Motul Gear competition 75w-140

· Rear diff – Motul Gear competition 75w-140

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On 9/13/2022 at 10:34 PM, BK said:

So with the racing done and no major issues or failures, time to start fine tuning things. A big shout out to Paul @Piggaz and Brett @r32-25tfor helping me out with a couple of parts to get this car on the road and racing in time 👍

After discovering the timing issue with the existing crank angle sensor retarding the whole map by about 15 degrees the 6466 on the 2.6 kicks arse. 6466 T4 1.00 a/r is not too big for a stock cammed 2.6 litre with 8.5:1 CR. Actually, I'd go so far as to say this is the smallest single turbo I'd recommend for an upgrade path on an RB26 and will definitely be sticking with Precision turbos as they just perform so damn good. Other things I liked about the car was the stock rebuilt gearbox is smooth, the ATS twin carbon clutch is excellent, unknown rear diff centre performs well (only part of the car we haven't touched so far) and the HKS Hipermax III coilovers are actually really, really good.

So the next things to obtain and fit to improve the car will be:

-NZ cam trigger kit. Crank angle sensors are so shit and unreliable, but won't be doing a full crank trigger at this stage.

-Adjustable rear upper control arms. Need to dial out some camber as we all know.

-Frenchys interior clock fix. I can't handle things in the interior not working.

-Strip off the bubbling rear window tint without stuffing up the rear window demister.

When have some cash to splash on this car the Splitfires will make way for R35 coilpacks, 1000cc Denso injectors to be swapped with Bosch 1650cc's, PWR or Plazmaman intercooler upgrade and piss off the Xforce Varex muffler for a decent unrestricted AES one. Until then I'll continue to road tune before heading back to Morpowa next year to flex fuel tune it and send it on E85.

At this stage its good to not have any broken GT-R's anymore ! 👌

Complete current specs of the expensive restoration / budget performance build 32...

 

NOVEMBER 1989 NISSAN BNR32 SKYLINE GT-R – BNR32-003217

 

 

·        ENGINE – SHORT

·  R33 RB26 long nose crankshaft – standard size bearing journals (Thanks Brett 👍)

·  Spool drag pro forged 4340 steel 121.5mm I-beam conrods

·  ARP 2000 7/16” rod bolts

·  CP forged 2618 aluminium 86.5mm pistons – 8.5:1 comp ratio (top ring 1.2mm, 2nd ring 1.5mm)

·  ACL race main + conrod bearings -HX 0.025mm extra clearance 0.001”

·  Nitto RB high pressure / high volume oil pump

·  Nissan 05U R33 RB26 block – 86.5mm bore

·  Tomei triple layer metal head gasket 1.2mm / 87mm

·  Nitto 1.1mm head to block oil restrictor

·  ARP 8740 main studs

·  ARP 2000 head studs – 12mm

·  Gates racing timing belt

·  Nissan / Pitwork aircon, power steer and alternator belts

·  Ross performance hi-tensile lower timing gear and shield kit

·  ARP crankshaft balancer bolt – M18

·  Standard Nissan OEM R32 GTR harmonic balancer

·  Standard Nissan OEM R32 GTR standard 8 blade water pump

·  Ross performance heat exchanger delete plate

·  Standard Nissan OEM 76c thermostat

·  Hi octane racing cast alloy 8.5 - 9 litre capacity sump, swing gated baffles

 

·        ENGINE – HEAD AND TURBO

·  Precision Gen2 CEA PT6466 1.00 a/r divided T4 turbocharger

·  Trust divided T4 single gate T78 turbo manifold

·  GCG hi-tensile M8 manifold and M10 turbo flange studs

·  HKS metal exhaust manifold gaskets, ECS copper lock nuts M8

·  Permaseal 5 layer stainless divided T4 flange gasket, ECS copper lock nuts M10 x 1.25

·  Turbosmart 50mm Progate gen4 external wastegate

·  Turbosmart 6mm reinforced silicone gate to boost control vacuum lines

·  Blitz DD super sound blow off valves x 2

·  Aeroflow 4” carbon series pod air filter

·  Turbosmart ORP40 oil pressure supply regulator w/ AN4 Speedflow 200 lines – return direct to Hi octane racing sump

·  Taarks / EFI solutions AN4 turbo oil supply inline filter

·  Standard OEM RB26 valve guides and 05U valves

·  Standard OEM RB26 camshafts

·  Standard OEM RB26 cam cap bolts

·  Supertech viton valve stem seals

·  Supertech M1007S single 70 lbs valve springs with titanium retainers

·  HKS metal throttle body gaskets

·  Tomei metal intake manifold gasket

·  Tomei adjustable camshaft gears

 

·        ENGINE-OTHER

·  Custom aluminium catch can w/ AN10 breather lines – PCV valve deleted

·  Franklin engineering head breather / drain kit with 100 series AN10 braided line to rear block turbo oil return

·  HKS 80mm cast alloy intercooler hard piping kit

·  Standard OEM R32 GTR 60mm intercooler

·  HKS 12 row oil cooler and filter relocation kit - 70c thermostat, Nismo oil filter

·  Standard Nissan OEM R32 GTR radiator, fan shroud and viscous fan

·  JJR silicone heater and radiator hoses

·  R134A aircon conversion

·  R33 charcoal canister

 

·        EXHAUST

·  3.5”/ 90mm mild steel front pipe

·  Venom 316 stainless 5” body 100cpi cat converter

·  50mm wastegate outlet plumbed into system with 304 stainless 2”pipe

·  3.5” / 90mm cat back mild steel section to stainless Xforce varex muffler

 

·        ENGINE MANAGEMENT / ELECTRICAL

·  Haltech ELITE 2000 ECU

·  Haltech GTR elite plug and play harness

·  Haltech WB1 wideband kit with Bosch LSU 4.9 sensor

·  Haltech flex fuel / temp sensor

·  Haltech 4 bar MAP sensor

·  Haltech 150psi fuel pressure sensor

·  Haltech 3 port MAC valve boost control solenoid

·  Haltech GM air temp sensor

·  Bosch 10bar / 140deg oil pressure and temp sensor

·  Standard OEM RB26 crank angle sensor

·  Standard Nissan OEM 90A alternator

·  Hitachi RB starter motor

·  Splitfire DIS-001 coilpacks

·  NGK Iridium IX spark plugs BCPR7EIX  – 0.8mm gap

·  Supercharge GOLD plus MF55B24 battery

 

·        FUEL SYSTEM

·  Haltech 100A Kudom SY4086 SSR mounted on aluminium heatsink under HICAS unit for PWM pump speed control

·  2 x 40A Narva backup relays for full time fuel pump control in case of SSR failure

·  6 x Sard / Denso low impedance 1000cc at 3bar injectors

·  Denso high guide injector connector plug conversion

·  Turbosmart FPR1200 adjustable fuel pressure regulator

·  Turbosmart 38mm 100 psi fuel pressure gauge

·  Sard 11mm twin entry fuel rail

·  Speedflow 200 single AN8 to twin AN6 braided lines pump to rail feeds. Single AN8 return line.

·  Gates submersible 3/8” 100psi hose in-tank fuel lines

·  1 x Walbro 525lph F90000285 E85 in tank fuel pump – PWM speed controlled via SSR

·  10mm2  fuel pump supply cabling, 30A maxi blade fuse and holder in engine bay – 13.8v at pump

·  Speedflow 602, AN8 40 micron supply fuel filter

·        DRIVELINE

· Standard FS5R30A R32 GTR transmission rebuilt – early synchro type

· Transfer case rebuilt and modified to 10 plate clutchpack

· Nismo push type chromoly release fork pivot ball

· ATS spec 1 carbon twin plate push type clutch, 1350kg pressure plate, 6.5kg Chromoly flywheel

· Standard OEM Nissan 3/4” push clutch slave cylinder

· Nismo transmission mount

· Superpro polyurethane transmission crossmember bushes

· HEL performance braided direct clutch line to slave

· Standard front open differential

· GKtech rear subframe aluminium collars

· Whiteline rear polyurethane diff mount bushes

· Unknown brand rear limited slip differential, but it locks hard

 

·        BRAKES AND SUSPENSION

· Front calliper – Standard R32 GTR Sumitomo 4 piston w/ QFM pads

· Front rotor – Project Mu SCR slotted and ventilated rotors

· Rear calliper – Standard R32 GTR Sumitomo twin piston w/ QFM pads

· Rear rotor – RDA ventilated rotors

· BM50 1” ABS master cylinder

· Superpro polyurethane steering rack bushes

· GKtech polyurethane steering shaft bushing

· Standard R32 GTR front and rear swaybars

· Prospec front aluminium strut tower brace with integral master cylinder stopper

· Cusco spherical joint adjustable front castor tension rods

· Nismo front upper control arms

· HKS Hipermax III full height 30 way damper adjustable coilover suspension - 7kg front / 6kg rear spring rates

·        WHEELS AND TYRES

· Standard R32 GTR wheels 16” x 8” offset +30

· 225/50R16 crappy no name china tyres

· Rays engineering security wheel nuts

(Currently fitted with standard 33 GTR 17 x 9 +30 wheels on 245/45R17 Hankook Ventus RS4 tyres)

 

·        INTERIOR

· 2 x R33 GTR series 1 seats

· Blitz billet alloy gearshift knob

· Sony 4 x 50w CD head unit, Alpine speakers

· Nismo 260km/h speedometer gauge

· Haltech 52mm GaugeArt canbus gauge

· ART fire extinguisher CAMS approved bracket + 1kg Chubb ABE extinguisher

· Sparco sports steering wheel

· HKB ON-110 steering wheel boss adapter

 

·        EXTERIOR

· Respray to 326 Crystal white (original KH2 gunmetal grey)

· Genuine R32 GTR series 2 full ABS plastic bodykit

· R32 N1 front reinforcement bar with genuine N1 bumper intake ducts

· FRP vented bonnet – unknown make, looks cool

· Series 1 projector headlights with H3C low beam / H3 high beam Phillips 55w crystal vision 4300k globes

· H4 headlight relay harness conversion

 

·        OILS AND FLUIDS

· Engine oil – Castrol Edge 10w-60

· Coolant – Nulon type A green stuff concentrate 40/60 mix

· Brake fluid – Castrol React performance Dot 4

· Power steering – Castrol ATF Dex III

· ATTESA hydraulics – Castrol ATF Dex III

· Transmission – Castrol VMX-M 75w-85 gl-4

· Transfer case – Castrol Transmax Z

· Front diff – Motul Gear competition 75w-140

· Rear diff – Motul Gear competition 75w-140

When do you see full boost with the 6466?

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No idea about when full boost is exactly as I've had the eyes on the road rather than looking at gauges, but by the arse dyno says its pretty moving at 4k onwards. I'll will be doing some more extensive data logging and road tuning in the future so I'll know more then. One thing that was very noticeable now was how fast the engine revs up with the ATS 6kg flywheel compared to the stock one, so boost comes on very quickly with the fast rising revs.

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  • 3 months later...

Got to fix a few problems on the car since the September race meeting. Fixed the interior clock issue with Kevin from Frenchys who was fantastic to deal with. Managed to fix the clocks out of both 32s so now I even have a working spare - yay !

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Had some dramas with the injectors on low load. Existing ones are Denso 1000cc EV1 from Sard and were having trouble holding a good afr at idle. Would go hunting around from 12 - 16:1 while fuel pressure was a rock solid 40psi and -10psi vacuum, so decided to change to some modified Bosch 040 1200cc @ 3 bar long reach EV14 injectors. Really wanted to go the 333 1550cc at 3 bar ones like in the other 32, but price was a factor here and think the 1200cc ones should be big enough for the end power target of this engine combo. Had to change connectors back to the EV1 stock type as they were changed to be the Denso hi guide style. As they are high impedance injectors it also meant I could piss off the factory injector resistor pack, so win win there. Setup all the relevant info in the Elite and boom, injector problem solved. Idles like a factory car and revs cleanly through to 8500rpm, so very impressed with their operation.

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Then got onto installing the NZ cam trigger setup on the Elite. Sussed out the wiring easy enough as I was using DT connectors and the setup seemed to be pretty straight forward. Started it cold and seemed to be running well while driving, pulling through to redline smoothly with no trigger errors. I did notice when I removed the existing crispy cas wiring connector that one of the signal wires was holding on literally by one strand, so was probably what was causing majority of the previous trigger issues.

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After a few weeks I started to notice a really annoying thing - the car would refuse to start when warmed up. I previously not noticed this as I'd obviously never shut the car down hot and tried to restart it straight away. You could leave it for say 15 - 20 minutes after it wouldn't hot start and then it would just fire like when it was cold - WTF?!

Since then I've been delving more into this issue am coming to really hate this thing now. It is such a piece of shit I think I'm going to go back to the CAS.

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3 hours ago, Duncan said:

When trying to restart warm, is it cranking at full speed or slower? Could just be a starter motor issue, I just changed the one in the Stagea and realised how slow  it had been cranking compared to normal

Nah mate, nothing to do with starter as cranking speed is fine. I realise the lower the cranking speed the less voltage is generated by the reluctor, so I looked at my arming voltage table specifically in the crank area. As mentioned my starting settings are this and work fine cold:

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I've tried lowering it, putting filters on the trigger- nothing works. Thought it was to do with my cranking fuel coolant corrections or pulse width settings as it is definitely temp related, but nope - all I managed to achieve was to foul the plugs.

It's definitely all to do with this piece of shit reluctor setup. Not related to gap as I have under 0.5mm and no shims installed, so I can't get a smaller gap anyway. I noticed when it won't start the rpm reading is inconsistent in the ECU so I'll have to scope the signal, but I know the trigger signal will look all choppy from just what the rpm is saying when the problem occurs.

It is exactly like mentioned here on the Link forum and is apparently not that uncommon for the NZ wiring setup with the Bosch VR reluctor.

https://forums.linkecu.com/topic/15471-r33-gtr-nz-wiring-trigger-kit-problem/

f*kn piece of... arrrgh !

I'll sell it cheap if anyone wants it.

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1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Very odd, I have none of these issues with the NZ Wiring kit.

And I've been using it for a while too!

Was waiting to see your input. You mentioned you were having starting issues but that was just down to having your arming voltage at cranking rpm too high, correct ?

So you've never encountered the hot start issue ? I'll look into it further before I bin the NZ wiring kit, but short of having a grounding issue that occurs once hot I'm running out of ideas. We have discussed this before but exact pins are you using ? I'm using pins 1 and 4 on the CAS loom direct with a DT connector, which is terminated on an Elite 2000/2500 as:

CAS pin 1 at Trigger + ECU pin B1

CAS pin 4 at Signal ground ECU pin B14.

There is a pin B5 on the ECU specifically for TRIGGER -, but I haven't heard of that needing to be used.

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I'll do some more testing with the meter and I'll do some signal scoping. I might even try as per Adam from Link suggesting to ground the neg side of the reluctor, but I'll see what the sensor back to ECU resistance is like first.

I'm wondering why in the f**k they didn't just use a Hall effect sensor like a GT101 - more forgiving with gap, not dicking around with sub 0.5v signals or trigger arming voltages etc.

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Just throwing this in here in case... fwiw, never run into issues with one of these kits though apparently some people have with G4x setups, but G4x aren't the most well behaved of ECUs at times regardless of what is trying to talk to them

image.thumb.png.d432d7e0b0c12bfa398fcc3a0e657abb.png

Edited by Lithium
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7 minutes ago, Lithium said:

Just throwing this in here in case... fwiw, never run into issues with one of these kits though apparently some people have with G4x setups, but G4x aren't the most well behaved of ECUs at times regardless of what is trying to talk to them

image.thumb.png.d432d7e0b0c12bfa398fcc3a0e657abb.png

Yeah mate, if I have a signal ground issue you might be onto something as I mentioned possibly using B5 Trigger- and disable ground reference.

It's gotta be a signal ground reference issue that is affecting purely the very low cranking arming voltages, as the car runs fine when engine is actually running. Why it only does it when it's hot can only be a caused slight increase in ground resistance which would have a big impact at 0.5v or lower cranking signals.

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Yep this is what I'm going to try tonight after work. Use what would be the existing Home + at CAS loom end as the dedicated signal ground conductor back to the ECU and then use that HOME + wire from ECU pin B2 and connect that in ECU pin B5 which will be TRIGGER - and disable the ground reference. This way the trigger signal ground should not be shared with any other signal grounds. Other trigger settings are pretty basic though:

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If this dosen't work.......

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33 minutes ago, BK said:

Yeah mate, if I have a signal ground issue you might be onto something as I mentioned possibly using B5 Trigger- and disable ground reference.

It's gotta be a signal ground reference issue that is affecting purely the very low cranking arming voltages, as the car runs fine when engine is actually running. Why it only does it when it's hot can only be a caused slight increase in ground resistance which would have a big impact at 0.5v or lower cranking signals.

Yeah for sure, I figured seeing as you were on that track I might throw this in just in case you hadn't seen it - be nice if it all wraps up as being this kind of thing.  Fingers crossed for you either way as it seems like a kient of an issue.

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3 hours ago, Lithium said:

Just throwing this in here in case... fwiw, never run into issues with one of these kits though apparently some people have with G4x setups, but G4x aren't the most well behaved of ECUs at times regardless of what is trying to talk to them

image.thumb.png.d432d7e0b0c12bfa398fcc3a0e657abb.png

oh yay 🙃 the ECU and trigger kit i now have, haha

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8 hours ago, Lithium said:

Yeah for sure, I figured seeing as you were on that track I might throw this in just in case you hadn't seen it - be nice if it all wraps up as being this kind of thing.  Fingers crossed for you either way as it seems like a kient of an issue.

Done the change exactly as I mentioned tonight, no work. Thought I'd nailed it as it fired straight up, idled great, drove great, restarted a couple of times fine and then wouldn't start again after engine up to temp for awhile.

I checked the B14 signal ground before changing it and it was under well 1 ohm so it's been making me think there was never any ground issue. So the only constant now that hasn't ever been changed is that the signal + is still the same CAS pin 1 going to ECU pin B1 which is Trigger + and possibly becoming faulty when hot. Not confident but I will try it with using the signal + CAS pin 2 home + core that is originally at ECU pin B2 as my trigger + core at ECU pin B1 and revert back to using ECU pin B14 signal ground on the CAS pin 4 core. I'll check continuity is good obviously.

Failing that working, the CAS goes back on and then it gets a proper Ross hall effect crank trigger next year like the blue 32.

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