niZmO_Man

Doubt it's the plug. Take the HICAS computer out and have a look inside, there might be a loose screw or bad solder joints or something. Mine randomly craps out and it's pretty annoying. Makes me wish I bought an R33 GT-R .

Nope, I'd say you need 18" wheels.

Ah yes the master stopper helps with pedal feel (I run a Cusco one, got it through Jesse Streeter). 18x9.5 - 18x10 wheels (the Enkie are very well priced) with 265/35/18 Hankook RS3 tyres will be pretty good

Tyres = the stickier the better. Get something like Advan AD08 or Hankook R-S3 if you can. Not sure if they come in the 225/50/16 size. Wider wheels+tyres will be beneficial. As for brakes, full fluid flush with fresh Super DOT4 (high temp >300deg rated) or DOT5.1 fluid. Pads, try QFM A1RM and new rotors if you need them. Don't bother with drilled rotors (they tend to crack with track use). If you want to upgrade your brakes, you'll have to get bigger wheels (with big brake clearance). I have GT-R Brembo front brakes, stock rear with A1RM pad and they stopped the car pretty well (Eastern Creek South Circuit, so no high speeds), but I have a shit brake master cylinder so I can't say how well they work compared to stockers. The bigger brakes does give you extra heat capacity though (I found the ABS would kick later with the Brembos). Wheels are 18x10 +20 (Nismo LMGT1) with 265/35/18 road tyres (need better tyres). Not sure what suspension setup you have, but I run about -2° camber with 6° caster on the front and -1° camber on the rear (adjustable upper arms, caster rod). The front alignment will have a role on the feel and grip level while turning.

Oh sorry, didn't see that you're in the US. You can perhaps contact the organiser to see if they can get your stuff shipped separately? Unfortunately, there seems to be only the vented style available. Perhaps contact Seibon and see if they can make something up for you?

Do it!

Logic dictates 97RON, you don't want a tune that should be using higher rated fuel than what you're supplying.

Location?

That is awesome.

Yep. My GT-R sounded like the old neighbour's 6cyl BMW. Changed the front pipes to equal length ones (the only mod), bam, awesome GT-R sound.

Since when do you get any spare time? Finished the Stagea yet?

Checked out the group buys?

JB Hi Fi?

Lumley requires you to be over 25.

They have their marital status on there hahahaha.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/84208-wheel-sizes-offsets-for-skylines/

AD08 or RE-11 or R-S3 brooooo

Stop talking to them, for your own good.

Would be funny if after the tech night, a couple of HWP rock up and defect a bunch of Skylines Actually, it wouldn't be funny.

You forgot to mention the turbos are the ones that Ferrari used on their F40 . That IC is massive! (That's what she said), will it fit behind the front bar?

Wash > clay bar > polish > wax

Run 265, roll the guards and don't be afraid of using a bit of neg camber (-0.5°).

Actually, there are a handfull still floating around. Grandpa spec garaged ones, and the SVD versions. OP, since you're new/most likely a P plater, $500-1,000 depending on condition, rego etc. GX is the base pov-spec model. www.r31skylineclub.com

http://www.powerbulbs.com/au/store/category/car-bulbs/fitting/d2r They are genuine bulbs. I bought "genuine" bulbs off ebay, good copy but can just tell the fake bits. They aren't as good as the real deal (seller had no issues refunding me). I used D2S (projector bulbs) so the cutoffs and spread are probably better masked than reflectors between shitty and good bulbs. Also, the D2S is far more popular (more in use) than the reflector ones, so are cheaper ($60-80 compared to $100+ for Philips). Too expensive? Sell your car and buy a Falcadore wagon. You can buy shitty ones off ebay for cheap. Sure they'll do the job and make light, but who knows how long they will last. Also, anything more than 6,000K is ricer, output is reduced and makes the road harder to see. Stick with 4300K if you want to see.