Murray_Calavera

Add a turbo to make use of all the extra fuel

My local Nissan dealership is actually really good, no issues with getting parts in... but it's pretty rare I end up ordering anything through there https://jp-carparts.com Getting parts from Japan has always been below cost price from the local dealership, obviously they can't sell something below cost price so any big purchase is coming from Japan and I'll wait the extra few days for the parts. I also use Kudos and Justjap, but for big purchases sometimes it's worth waiting a few extra days

Depends on how much 'common sense' you want to apply. So you can start with the easy one, it will be cheaper to buy a turbo car rather then converting yours. So that leaves it to, how much do you love your current car? My swift is on it's, 3rd engine rebuild, 7th gearbox, etc... you get the idea. It does not make financial sense to do this but I love it and won't let it go. I'm sentimental about cars, my vote is convert it - but go full mental when you do. Eg when you drop the motor in, make sure its forged. When you upgrade the brakes, throw on some 6 pot fronts and 4 pot rears. Try to avoid using any stock turbo skyline parts and go to what the turbo guys are upgrading to and skip the middle step.

I'm not prepared to give up on the anti lag dream. Also, I tune my car myself and it's something I want to learn to setup. I'm not saying I'm going to hit the anti lag at every set of lights, it's going to be used sparingly with common sense in mind.

Hi all, I did a bit of googling and couldn't find anything about when it makes sense to update the exhaust valves to Inconel? My engine build is quickly getting out of hand with all of the, 'while I'm at it I'll also do...' I'm thinking of putting in a set of Supertech valves because I'd like the option of running anti-lag and want it to be as safe as possible. I'm thinking those valves will do a better job of handling the higher exhaust temps. I'm already doing new springs, cams, lifters, all service items - should I add new valves to the list as well? They aren't cheap at around $1,200, so I want to be confident it's money well spent. Cheers.

jp-carparts.com

What spring are you planning to swap to and what max boost are you chasing?

If there are zero other issues, I wouldn't change it.

Plynx, do you have a catch can hidden under there? Looks super sexy. I need to sort out my catch can setup

ooo details on the oil catch can/intake cover please

I never said anything bad about Plastigauge. I'd like to for example, check the bores for size, roundness and taper. I can't see me doing that with anything other then a bore gauge. Decent bore gauges go for around $600ish? Then I'll need a set of mic's, so another $400ish? It's starting to add up real quick. Say I want to use a rod bolt stretch gauge, that's another $350ish? I'd call these tools specialist tools, along with ring cutters, angle gauges, magnetic deck bridge, magnetic base dial gauge etc etc. Some of these are quite affordable but it all adds up. Maybe they aren't 'specialist tools' but that's the sort of thing I'm referring to. Hopefully you can see where I'm coming from and tool hire would make a lot more sense for me in this position. I guess I'll keep sniffing around for a hire shop, if not I'll make do with what I have.

I did a bit of googling and couldn't find any place in Sydney that hire out specialist engine building tools. If someone knows of a company that does that I'd be keen.

Looking forward to seeing the cage in the car

Hi all, I was wondering what peoples experience is with the mechanic checking the machine shop's work after sending the engine off for machining? After chatting with a few machine shops, seems it's pretty common practice that the engine is assembled by the mechanic without any of the clearances or other work performed being checked? I'm in the process of putting my rb25 together and I'm wondering if I just trust the machine shop, or do I drop something like $2,000 in bore gauges/mics/etc and check everything myself. Note I'm not a mechanic so these specialist tools will spend a lot of time gathering dust

Slap has invented the world's first mechanical air fuel ratio gauge. Think of the cost savings, never having to replace another sensor again

Google closed loop and open loop control systems. Get on YouTube if you still can't work out what an open/closed loop control system is. It is very clear you do not understand what each term means. Regarding your 'load map', there are high load areas on the fuel and timing maps, I've never seen a separate map specifically for when the engine is on high load. I hope such a thing doesn't exist because it would be a pain to tune, constantly swapping between multiple maps. While your googling, Google fuel map and have a look on the images, you'll see the maps cover the entire rpm and load range the engine operates in. I was serious about the English as a second language question, do you speak another language?

Slap, is English your second language? What your saying doesn't make any sense...

Ok, I'll bite. What are these 'load maps' you speak of? I've heard of fuel maps, timing maps, but not 'load maps' - please enlighten me.

You can still buy the old dinosaur DW injectors brand new new. When I say they are old, I mean old design. As in, they are side feed injectors that are essentially milled stock injectors. Modern injectors are a much better design. On the plus side, your mixtures don't look bad on those runs. If your car is making 300hp, I can't believe your spark plug gap even came up in discussion. I would bet there are many people running around on factory spec plugs without any issues at all at that power level. Please post back with results after you have replaced your coils.

FPR is a fuel pressure regulator. I just quickly re-read your posts again, you mentioned that your AFR is around 14-15 on 'load'. Originally I interpreted that as light cruise, is that what you meant or is it 14-15 AFR on full boost? Re your injectors, yes you have terrible injectors by today's standards, if your not running E85, that explains your idle mixtures. Have you fitted the new coil packs yet? If it is the case that your mixtures are extremely lean, (14-15 AFR on 'load'), you are approaching the realm of lean misfires. While I wouldn't expect a lean misfire at 15 AFR, a mixture of 16 AFR wouldn't surprise me that it was backfiring/misfiring. I think the primary concern at this stage is the state of tune, til that's answered it's hard to know where the real problem is. You asked should you be driving this car? Well if it's running that lean I wouldn't drive it. Also, what are the odds you'd be able to upload your ECU's map? Would only take me about 20 seconds to tell you if the tune is so bad that it's a tune issue rather then a coil issue.

He might not be able to get a nice idle at 14.7 if he is using large old school injectors. Cruising around at 14.7 would be easier to tune as the injectors are out of the low slope range. Eric, what injectors are you running?

Once you have swapped your bonnet and BOV to stock and have the car inspected, please reply to this thread and let us know how that went!

I agree. After you break something, the replacement cost could have been used to buy a modern ECU. Do it once, do it right?

I'm in a similar boat as you, I spoke with Supertech recently and they advised that around that power level their 4032 forged pistons would need about 4 and a half thou of clearance. I'm still looking into other options... I was hoping to run less clearance if I was going to be using 4032 pistons

Nice, makes me wish I had a back seat again lol