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V28VX37

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Everything posted by V28VX37

  1. I've got this guys, going full custom steampipe manifold too Not sure if Turbosmart have anything off-the-shelf for this though
  2. Well, they do - at the manufacturer. One of the RDA's I installed recently had a nice straight 'slot' cut on the outer rim of the disc at one single spot, whilst the other rotor didn't - I am 99% certain it's to balance it. The pair was less $200 so pretty cheap compared to mucking around with rusted rotors. Also re machining rotors on hubs, it's a good option but some guys only do plain ones, the one my shop uses wouldn't touch my slotted DBA's on the car. When re/installing rotors make sure you check run out and oscillation: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/448613-r34-gtt-brake-improvement-without-breaking-the-bank/?do=findComment&comment=7803377 As others have said you definitely want to check the condition of those calipers. Rebuilding them at a workshop will cost a bit (my GTT fronts rebuild was around $400 drive in/drive out), but brakes is one of those things that you need to be pretty confident in what you're doing to DIY. Also: If that's what your rotors and suspension looks like, what the rest of the underbody like??
  3. 1 month off road for me so far, getting groceries without a car is starting to get old. I have been exploring a rebuild option for my Neo and realistically there is no change whatsoever from 5k, for even the most basic rebuild. I have marked my bores too plus suspect a crack in the block so in practice it will well beyond 5k. Replacement engine is my preferred choice, just very hard to source at the moment. Given where 32/33/34 prices are at the moment (GT-R's notwithstanding) you must be willing to spend the cost of the car or thereabouts if chasing a properly done big power RB engine build IMHO.
  4. I like where you guys are heading with this. Also considering:
  5. You get 10/10 for effort for killing the turbo too! How do the head and valves look? I just read your latest piece on Trak-Life, we are pretty much in the same boat (pun)... Not being able to source a good engine is driving me bonkers, exploring all options: RB25DE conversion (well why not) RB26DETT conversion RB30DET conversion LS1 conversion Sell as a roller (gasp) Other, please specify: __________ I do want to get it back running for under 5k...
  6. I'm finding it very difficult to find a decent replacement Neo engine anywhere in Australia. I have inspected two locally in Melbourne, one was clean and the other one less so, however both had one cylinder down in standard comp test. I've called 10+ wreckers all over the country and no one has anything. There's none on eBay and one on Gumtree but the guy is away. So yeah if anyone has any leads I'm all ears. ... In other news, my original engine is out and the head is off, cylinders 3, 5 and 6 ain't looking too happy. Ring damage, rings are still complete just fused together so in theory the head and turbo are still ok. However, they have marked the bores, so it's a bore and hone job + oversize pistons at a minimum from what I gather, so not a cheap rebuild. Bill and I still can't work out why it kept on pushing all that coolant, so I am suspicious of the block and whether there's a crack in there somewhere.
  7. Can someone run ER34-027324 for me please?
  8. I'm with GTSBoy in that it won't do much without airflow, especially is butted against the floor ppan . you'll definitely need a scoop which will add height and complexity. Suggestion: how about just a bigger capacity fuel pump with good large gauge rewire? Theoretically it would run at less capacity and cooler & quieter. Safer too compared to an external cooling core. I've got a small Walbro 270 and it's noisy as anything on a track day but does calm down afterwards. I'm assuming 040 is of a similar capacity. Try Walbro 460 or something perhaps?
  9. It's exactly the same as mine then, an awesome LSD for that type of use! I shaved 4.5 seconds off my PB at Sandown two weeks ago and I reckon some fraction of that came down to this diff. I've finally managed to get it to behave a little better on the street too, the trick is to have enough throttle to lock it, it's at its worst when just coasting around a tight corner with the clutch out...
  10. Pro or standard? I had the standard Nismo 1.5-way put into mine last year, based on the total sample of 1 track day, it's awesome on the track. Less so on the street, I hope yours is not a daily in suburban traffic
  11. Sorry not sure but I can confirm that what was sold to me as a 2door rack did not fit my 4door, different length bolts or something. Recommend checking that too before you buy.
  12. Oooo would love to do Broadford it's meant to be fun ... just need an engine
  13. Wow that's one interesting slotting and drilling pattern on the rotors, outside the pad area too, never seen that before. I've hope they've been checked for balance afterwards?
  14. Cheers mate. Yet to be pulled apart, will keep youse posted.
  15. You may have seen that I took the car to Sandown last month and blew the bottom end: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468826-blown-neo-bottom-end-next-steps/ Now, judging by the symptoms it's been a long time coming and really just a matter of time. I was checking the catch can between sessions and there was barely anything until the second last session, after which it had perhaps 10mm oil in. However, after the last session (which eventually led to losing compression on 3 cylinders), I had heaps of crankcase pressure building and pushing oil and smoke out of the breather hose ends, the one running across the rocker covers. It also popped of the PCV hose on the intake cam cover. I pulled the catch can at this point and it was just over half fun. The question is, whilst it most likely wasn't the root cause, do you think the catch can may have contributed to the demise of this engine?
  16. There's some recent catch can conversation here: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/193576-do-i-need-a-catch-can/?page=2 Re atmo venting, it's not legal, hence the avoidance. From memory, I also read somewhere that it can cause oil residue in the engine bay.
  17. My top 3 least favourite DIY's on the car: Removing steel sleeved bushes Sorting electrical gremlins Painting parts I've done 2 sets of wheels (Just Don't Do It) and my roof and boot lip wings and they're never perfect. I reckon beyond what others have said above, you really need an enclosed indoor space with minimal dust and airflow to get a decent finish. I've done most of my painting outside and the amount of dust and bugs and crap in the air is just amazing, not really conducive to a great result. Also body shops use ovens to cure the paint at the correct temperature, to achieve a good finish and seal especially for the clear coat. Very hard to do at home.
  18. Wow that's a crazy good result! E85 I'm guessing?
  19. Trident mentions cams so I'm guessing 98. Cracking 300 is so much easier on jungle juice but your range will be like 200km. Not really feasible for a multipurpose car, unless you go flex like Johnny keeps on preaching... though it's a costly exercise if you're paying rack rates for your tunes
  20. Except in a 4door apparently, lol Also if OP is looking a for true 'achievement unlocked' level stuff, go a 26/30 hybrid, that'd be fun finding parts for in Canada
  21. LAUNCH BOOST ... my kinda switches right there!! Nice work Duncan
  22. #enginehunting Please let me know if you have an honest Neo or know of one: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/index.php?/topic/468837-WTB%3A-RB25DET-Neo-engine-from-R34-GTT-Stagea-%5BVIC%5D
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