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V28VX37

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Everything posted by V28VX37

  1. V28VX37
    Thanks mate! Yeah looking at the prices the DW is probably ~$100 more than the Walbro 460. I'll probably rewire again with large gauge cable so current should be ok, however the fuel heating is of potential concern - does that happen when a high capacity pump is running at just a fraction of its capacity (ie. recirculating back into fuel tank)? Re keeping the car, there are no takers at the moment so I'm thinking 'just one more mod' - famous last words haha. Plus maybe it'll sell better at 300+rwkw?
  2. V28VX37
    Awesome thanks guys, great input! A new pump it is then. Are there any other options besides the Walbro 460LPH you might recommend? I had a quick look but couldn't work out if Bosch makes an in-tank one.
  3. V28VX37
    G'day fellas, a few questions about fuel pumps. I am currently running about 275rwkw @ PULP with Hypergear ATR43SS2 at 20psi. I am thinking of retuning for E85, aiming for somewhere around 300rwkw. Here's the current fueling setup, it's pretty basic: Walbro 255LPH fuel pump Deatschwerks 800cc injectors Fuel pump rewire The injectors have been used with E85 previously and I am confident they have enough flow for the task. Questions: What's the chances the Walbro 255 would flow enough for E85 at ~300rwkw? I don't think the Walbro is specifically listed as 'E85 safe' – has anyone run their Walbro 255 with E85 reliably? If I need to upgrade the fuel pump, what are the in-tank recommendations for this application? The Walbro 460 seems really popular but is it an overkill? Are there any downsides to running an 'oversized' fuel pump? Ebay is full of pump labelled 'genuine', but how can you really know that it's authentic? Thanks guys.
  4. V28VX37
    Great driving and photos Bill, good work!! Good to hear about the brake setup, too
  5. V28VX37
    Depends on the viscosity, lightweight is intended for old boxes that are still ok, heavy is more for stuffed synchros and such. Or so I've read.
  6. V28VX37
    Great photos and amazing driving Bill, that's an unreal time! Impressive how well the car is holding up too, with so much track work.
  7. V28VX37
    Mine has been fine with Redline since I installed the breather hose and filter back in 2014. From memory, I've replaced the oil once since.
  8. V28VX37
    Hi Michael, if you're not overly fussed about the number of doors I've got a well built R34 for sale here: http://bit.ly/4doorad – Photos: http://bit.ly/4doorpics . Happy to chat. SAU thread:
  9. V28VX37
    Long time bump, following parts still for sale, Melbourne pick up only: 1. R34 GTT brake booster with BM50 master cylinder – $80 2. R34 GT brake booster with BM44 master cylinder – $80 3. Leaky Driftworks braided oil cooler hoses with crimped AN10 fittings, for spares – $20 4. R34/R33 transmission parts – $80
  10. V28VX37
    Harbourtown early bird is $10 is you're willing to tram it. I'm 99% confident it's in the free tram zone.
  11. V28VX37
    So, CVT next? GLWS mate!
  12. V28VX37
    'Knock knock' 'Who's there?' 'Opportunity.' 'Opportunity who?' 'Opportunity to make it Indestructible.'
  13. V28VX37
    For sale thread here: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/471783-fs-well-balanced-r34-gtt-sedan-for-street-and-track-vic/ Mods please feel free to close this EOI one.
  14. V28VX37
    Mild bump. Now listed on Carsales/My105/Gumtree too so get in quick if you're keen
  15. V28VX37
    Hello SAU, long time no see! This R34 GTT sedan for street and track is now for sale, asking $20k. The car has a fresh engine and rego. Please see the full ad for details. Full ad: http://bit.ly/4doorad – Photos: http://bit.ly/4doorpics
  16. V28VX37
    So you've got space for mine tomorrow then?
  17. V28VX37
    Back to $100. A bit like the share market.
  18. V28VX37
    ^^^ Awesome, looking great Chris!! Did you check for runout & oscillation using a dial indicator when installing? I'm a convert now
  19. V28VX37
    There is a rubber lining on the underside edge, whether you can get a replacement without changing the whole cover I'm not sure. Just ditch the cover, your coil packs will thank you for running cooler.
  20. V28VX37
    Straight pipes -> problem solved
  21. V28VX37
    Buy over build easy, if you're looking at it from a financial perspective. Actually, buy mine http://bitly.com/4doorad
  22. V28VX37
    $50 to save it from scrap metal!
  23. V28VX37
    Also WD40 all your exhaust hangers just to be sure
  24. V28VX37
    Almost a mission impossible, so many possible causes. We were just chasing a weird squeak on my car after replacing the engine, sounded like a frog pond?! It turned out to be a heater hose clamp scuffing the firewall, doh. Another thing that drove me nuts back in the day was a clear clunk when braking, which turned out to be aftermarket castor rod bush ID not matching the OEM bolt OD. Pro tip: Measure the bush ID of all suspension parts before throwing them in to make sure that it matches the original. Also anything with a rose joint (i.e. most aftermarket suspension parts) will be noisy, compared to an OEM rubber bush. And let's not even start on the mechanical diff...
  25. V28VX37
    Of all the possible things they steal your cluster?! Pr___s! I hope you get it back & they didn't damage too many other things. Unbelievable.
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