V28VX37

Correct, one theory is that there a was an underlying piston/ring issue and that the HG was ok-ish all along. The HG issue was always really difficult to diagnose as on the street the car was fine, on the dyno it was mostly fine, and only on the track did it start chucking coolant – which occurred again on Thursday even after the head refresh, new HG and head studs. It was comp tested before the HG change and returned reasonable figures so the bottom end was deemed ok. Also powerwise it ran pretty much the original numbers on the dyno after the new HG so I thought it was all a-ok now... But yeah it's an RB so who knows really.

WTB: RB25DET Neo engine from R34 GTT/Stagea [VIC] My engine decided to pack it in so I'm looking for a replacement one. If you have one available – or know someone else who does – please PM through photos from every side, engine number, approximate kms and what type of car it came from etc. Here's what I'm after: Short or long RB25DET Neo turbo engine 1998 onwards Clean and in good condition, with even compression across all cylinders Preferably under 100,000 kms Preferably from a stock donor car (ideally grandpa's auto R34 GTT sedan lol) Ancillaries optional, I can swap over mine. Turbo not required If the head has been pulled I'll need a receipt for what was done in terms of refresh, head gasket, studs etc. I will need some paperwork on where the engine came from (preferably with a chassis VIN), and also a written receipt for the sale so that the swap can be registered with VicRoads I'm keen to find the engine in Vic so it can be thoroughly inspected before purchase; if it can be viewed running, even better. I am fairly thorough and will ask a million questions so if you're selling from the back of a van I'd rather not waste your time. Contact details for decent Melbourne wreckers are welcome, too. Thanks guys!

Following parts still for sale, Melbourne pick up only: 1. R34 GTT brake booster with BM50 master cylinder – $100 2. R34 GT brake booster with BM44 master cylinder – $100 3. Leaky Driftworks braided oil cooler hoses with crimped AN10 fittings, for spares – $30 4. R34/R33 transmission parts – $80

Well Thursday was my first experience with them, can't really recommend it, way oversubscribed. There were 99 drivers listed on Natsoft and they split the 6th open wheeler group into two (!) so ended up having 7 groups, unreal. Also it was self-scrutineered which was way strange, never seen that before. The highlight of the day was a white GT3 Cup Car, he was pretty much doing a lap and a half for eveyone else's one ... quickest car for the day by far at 1:12.7. Anyhow, I scored several PB's but killed my bottom end in the process so kinda bittersweet. If anyone has a decent Neo DET lying around please let me know

^^^ Re last line, yep that's what I'm thinking too. I'll keep looking for an engine. There's a decent looking block in the FS section but I have no idea how much more work it'd be to mate the existing head onto that, compared to a straight engine swap. Probably lots. With this option I'm also wondering if I can reuse my recently installed OEM HG and ARP head studs, or are they disposable items?

Show us the block and pistons Johnny!

Thanks guys. One more option is to get the engine fixed up and at the same time put it back to stock as much as possible, and sell as a running stock car + separate turbo/exhaust/intercooler/intake/oil cooler/gauges/diff etc. Just trying to work out which option will minimise further loss of $$, thoughts? I've had a look around the usual suspects eBay and Gumtree and there's basically nothing at the moment in terms of Neos, so might need to start calling through the wreckers on Monday. Can you check engine numbers on FAST? Is there a way to confirm year/type of an RB25 block/full engine based on the engine number? I need to find a 2WD Neo unit, so that there's no further mucking around.

Blown Neo bottom end - Next steps? Welcome to the continuation thread to Blown Neo head gasket - Next steps https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/467066-blown-neo-head-gasket-next-steps/ Soooooo another track day, another drama. Did Sandown yesterday, first session went well but started having more and more issues as the day wore on. The engine starting pushing coolant again and had boiling coolant in the overflow despite checking and re-bleeding the system (thanks once again for lending a hand Bill!!). In the last slow session it decided to blow off the PCV hose and push oil + smoke from rocker cover breathers. Sounded like a Rex too. I got it towed to the workshop and the verdict came in this afternoon, bottom end is gone. It's lost compression on cylinders 3, 5 and 6, and I'm guessing that's probably the root cause for the originally presumed head gasket issues too, so all that expense is likely to have been in vain. If 2016 was the year of dead celebrities looks like 2017 is the year of dead RB25's (hi Johnny)... This one lasted about 150k and ~10 track days @ 275 rwkw so there you go. Silver lining: My last Sandown PB was 1:34.06 from December 2015 (!) because I was s__t and/or #becausedrama every single time in 2016 ... I only got some 20 laps in yesterday but did grab a string of PB's: 1:32.36 1:32.17 1:31.81 1:30.73 1:29.58 So at least this Neo died in style. Sidenote: The RDA rotors worked wonders with the Intima SR's & brake air guides, and the Nismo 1.5-way is absolute magic on the track. Anyhow, onto the next steps: I think it's time to get out whilst winning and stop throwing good money after bad. Other than the engine, it's a good sorted car with a 5-page long mod list. The options are: Find a replacement engine, get it swapped over and sell is as a sorted, running & regoed street and track car Buy a replacement block, get the freshened up head transferred onto it, then as above Stop spending stupid money, pull out all the parts worth anything, and unload as a rolling shell Something else, you tell me? Cost of options 1 & 2 will probably be in the 3-5k range (workshop labour) but you'll also get more in selling a proper running car. Flip side, second hand engines or blocks rarely come with warranty. Having spent hundreds and hundreds of hours and many many more $$$ on this car I was kinda hoping to sell it as a turnkey street & track package for someone else to enjoy, so would really hate to part it out... Plus I don't think it's worth much that way, and you'd end up dealing with a whole heap of tyre kickers. What do you guys reckon?

I looked into the R33 brake ducts recently, you probably know this already but they work together with the air guides that mount on the castor rods, so you'll need both:

Yes I was very surprised too, turns out it can be a significant restriction. Don't know about decat it's a street car Ebay mate

FWIW I've been happy with Chasers and Paul's always done a good job with my tune. Check that cat, my car picked up about 25 rwkw going from X force 'high flow' to a proper Venom 100cell. Edit: Mine's a 34 with Nistune not PowerFC

Yes, I have a 40cm LED strip brake light mounted at the top of the rear window in my 34 sedan: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/231913157584?rmvSB=true I hooked this up after covering the original one on the boot with the boot lip spoiler. Works well and no issues so far (bar a few dead LEDs), this is in Vic.

It's more like a 'twice-weekly' than a daily but the R34 is our only car and has a Nismo 1.5-way in it. Hmm.... I'm learning to live with it but the diff is not great cold, or in the suburban shuffle in general. Some more impressions here: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466340-nismo-gt-vs-gt-pro-run-in-time/?do=findComment&comment=7779277

Different car but on my R34 sedan the drop on King Springs was ~33mm front and ~38mm rear. The rear was super low.

*bonnet haha

It's a RB25DET Neo mate. I've got the same bonner sticker stating 'RB25-DE', which is incorrect, must be from the same compliance shop. If you want the full specs on your car try here http://nissan.epc-data.com or post your VIN here: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128496-vins-you-want-fasted/ The non-turbo RB25DE has a completely different crossover pipe and throttle body-to-plenum arrangement:

It did thanks to Bill, with an OEM joiner that fits like a glove. What you really want is a 66mm to 60mm (ID) reducer that is at least 100mm long – the GK Tech one is a little large, and and a little short. If anyone knows where to get the OEM joiners at a decent price please let us know, I'm sure someone else will be looking for a replacement before long!

I've just installed a simple catch can setup and I'm still getting a drop of oil collecting at the bottom rear edge of the comp cover, it's really strange. I've previously tightened all oil and coolant lines and the turbo core section seems dry as far as I can tell from above and below. I'm still getting good boost, so the turbo is definitely working. Any other suggestions on what else could be causing a minor leak at the comp cover?

I wiped the comp cover 100% clean last night and went for a longer drive today, there's a drop of oil in there again. It doesn't look like the simple catch can has made any difference so I'm with you now Greg, I'm not convinced it's the breather either. Anyone got suggestions on what could be causing a leak at the comp cover? I've tightened all oil and coolant lines and the turbo core section seems dry as far as I can tell from above and below without pulling stuff out. Cheers mate, aluminium flat bar is pretty friendly to work with I was actually eyeing off that charcoal canister spot, would have been sweet. I'm sure that mine is 100% non-functional after some 150k on car.

Went for a quick test drive, car runs well but there's something curious going on with the heater hose, there's like this fine white dust on the outer surface. It's kinda like talcum powder, similar to what you often see on the inside of brand new rubber hose. I did flush the inside of the hose with hot water before installing but I'm wondering if the powder used in manufacture to keep the layers separate is coming through the hose skin with (some) pressure and heat? I'm guessing this won't impact performance but somewhat odd still. I've wiped the hoses clean and will keep an eye on them. EDIT: Sounds like it's mold release, pretty standard with new rubber hoses, should be ok.

Oh wow someone's combined a (turbo) MX-5 and an open wheeler: http://jalopnik.com/driving-a-stripped-down-turbo-miata-kit-car-doors-are-1791238438 You basically move your NA/NB running gear over to a tube chassis and lose about 1/3 weight in the process. Looks like heaps fun. The Exocet kits start at $7k US, which is actually pretty good. No idea whether something like this could be engineered in Aus. Great idea nonetheless!

Came up ok for a $90 setup. Surprisingly tight to run the 5/8" hose across the engine, especially with bonnet and fan clearance. I have no idea how people run 1 or 2 litre catch cans with a stock-ish engine bay arrangement, not much space...

Probably worth testing then before spending big $$ on a new unit. I'm guessing a standard boost leak tester would work fine, with some pressurised air and a cap at the other end of the cooler?

I'd go a ride in a car with RSR/RSRR before deciding, from all I've read they're cheap and stick well but very noisy. Some have compared the noise to the KU36, which I run, and that's certainly a noisy tyre. RS3's are meant to have a good balance between price/grip/wear/noise.