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V28VX37

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Everything posted by V28VX37

  1. How much are you budgeting for the conversion? I'd hazard a guess that it won't be far off the GTT vs GT price differential, especially since you're likely to need a gearbox too. The GT manual box at least is a lot weaker than the GTT box and won't be able to take the power. You'll also need to rejig your exhaust, possibly intake, and get an intercooler from somewhere. Then you're up for upgrading your undersized GT brakes, swaybars, and so on. IMHO it's just not worth it, even if you're DIY'ing everything. Ask @Kinkstaah he should be able to talk you out of it. Edit: I've just checked Carsales for you, cheapest GT (sedan) is 6.5k and GTT is 8k. There's no way whatsoever to be able to convert GT to GTT for 1.5k. Just sell your GT and spend a bit of time looking for the right GTT (perhaps something like mine?)
  2. $100 if you come and pick it this weekend or next week, I need the space back. I will even leave the sump and oil pick up on for you, so it should be good for those, crank, rods, engine mount brackets and perhaps the oil pump. Neo goodness cheap cheap!
  3. The car has just had a replacement Neo engine installed, which is being run in, with about 129k on it. I have excluded some parts from the sale and adjusted the reference price to $22,900. Reasonable offers are welcome. An updated version of the full ad is here: http://bit.ly/4doorad – Photos: http://bit.ly/4doorpics
  4. Two mates daily their Evo X's with no issues, one is tracked very regularly too. It's certainly a lot more modern platform than my R34.
  5. ^^^ Uber self-driving bots getting out of control?
  6. @Kinkstaah I can see a sedan! On the track! Not smoking! That's amazing Looks like a great day, Broadford is definitely on my todo list
  7. I'm sorry but 'track' and 'reliable' and 'registered' and 'under 10k' cannot co-exist in the same vehicle, at least in anything with forced induction. I'm happy to be proven otherwise but please have a scan of my105/Tracksales/Carsales/Gumtree/Ebay and report back on what you find
  8. You mean where the intake connects to the turbo front housing? Not recently, I will have a look
  9. Good question, I'm actually not sure. However I never had this issue before late last year and I just can't work out if it's engine related (blowby) or turbo related (oil feed or internal)... ... In other news, my old bottom end is for sale: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469657-fs-rb25det-neo-stock-bottom-end-needs-inspection-and-rebuild/
  10. Hi all, I've got my blown RB25DET Neo stock bottom end for sale: Cylinders 3, 5 and 6 have lost compression and it appears that the rings are fused, however still rotates Two of the bores (5 and 6) are scratched deep enough to feel when you run your finger over the bore, there are less severe scratches on other cylinders too When the engine went it first started pushing a lot of coolant and finally went up heaps in crank case pressure and started blowing oil and smoke from the breathers There are some burn marks near the water galleries on the recently changed head gasket (Oct 2016, included with the engine) but we're not sure if these were there before, during or after the bottom end went I am not 100% certain of the root cause of the engine failure and there may be other damage to the block besides the bores This engine is off my 1998 R34 GTT sedan and was at 156,565km when pulled out, with the last 30,000 kms at around 275rwkw. The car was still movable when the engine was pulled but ran quite rough. Please let me know if you need any other information. The engine is currently at my mechanic in Melbourne south east, pick up only. What's included: Engine block, rotating assembly, head gasket, couple of other random gaskets. Possibly sump and oil pickup. I will keep the water pump. Asking $150 but open to offers. Note I will need buyer's driver license number for the receipt. Absolutely no warranty other than this might make a very awkward coffee table Thanks guys
  11. Ok the replacement engine is in, my mechanic did a very tidy job with it. I'm currently in the process of ironing out a couple of niggles, one of them being the drop of oil still collecting at the bottom of the turbo front housing. The working theory was that it might have been leaking from the turbo oil feed but my mechanic pulled out the fitting and it seemed all good. One of the housing front housing bolt threads wasn't holding so we've replaced the bolt with a longer one that now tightens properly. We've also left out the catch can for the time being. Does anyone have any other ideas on where the heck that oil might be coming from? Like Tao said there are no oil galleries in the comp cover so it doesn't make a lot of sense to me...
  12. Hey Bill that's interesting about the Type D's, I had a similar experience with my previous cheapo Remsa pads where the first lap was ok, second lap was shocking (no bite), and then they started biting really well. The Intima SR's are definitely better than the Remsas all around. How do the Type D's compare to the SR since you've had both? Are they scary on the street when cold?
  13. I just sold mine recently but check Gumtree, there's one for sale in Fremantle at the moment. About $60 to courier with e-go just make the seller packages it properly.
  14. Please go and drive (or at least be a passenger) a 1.5-way before deciding, especially if it's a daily driven car. Do slow speed and sharp corners too, the usual suburban stuff. People have very different views on what's 'streetable' and 'livable', I certainly wouldn't drive my car with the 1.5-way as a daily. Yes, soft, I know.
  15. Holy crap Bill that second clip!!!! That's my worst fear at Sandown! Good save, very lucky... That's an amazing PB too, well done! Sounds like your ratio of dramas-vs-track-time is getting up there also...
  16. I'd cast a strong vote for Option C, especially at 300kw. You'd want good pads and fluid too so 1k might be a stretch, but those are easy to add in later. Good DIY by Johnny here: http://www.trak-life.com/diy-350z-brembo-brakes-conversion-nissan-skyline-r33-gts-t-gts-gts-4/ Re Option A, I had a Nismo 1.5-way put in last year, it's lovely on the track but I wouldn't daily it. It's 'livable' but not fun in suburban traffic. Plus, the Pro is about 1.5k new from Japan + installation so you're looking at more like 2k+ if new and you're not installing it yourself.
  17. This was the main reason holding me back from going E85, a range of ~200km is frankly ridiculous. I know that flex fuel would address that but I'm too cheap to pay for all the required tuning. It's crazy days when a Tesla is quicker off the mark and has better range than our cars ... once they address the weight and price, see you later. 5-10 years max.
  18. Nah mate it'll be fine. Perhaps the gearbox.
  19. If Estonia is anything like Finland (and I believe Germany too) they do annual roadworthy testing. Not bad if you have a stock car but pretty hopeless if you do... Could you not just go to the authorities with the make and model and spec sheet, and get some advice before buying?
  20. Ouch. Any particular reason the first rebuild failed?
  21. Whereabouts in Europe mate? From the little that I've read there's absolutely no chance running anything modified in Belgium for instance, but Poland for example is a different story.
  22. Awesome result! You could try posting a link here or sharing directly on FB on the SAU group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/skylinesaustralia/
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