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V28VX37

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Everything posted by V28VX37

  1. V28VX37
    Bill and I were wracking our brains at Sandown about this and we reckon it's actually the oil feed line on the top of the core, leaking under the fitting that connects the braided line to the core. That sprays oil onto the rear of the front housing, which then drips down to the comp cover as above. The fitting under the oil line in the top left corner below: Apparently there's a copper washer under that fitting and it's important that it's annealed before installation (?). Tao, any pointers on where I could get a replacement fitting and copper washer for this turbo (ATR43SS2 late 2013)? Cheers
  2. V28VX37
    Oh no not another one I hope it's not this: http://www.theage.com.au/victoria/man-flees-on-foot-after-crashing-allegedly-stolen-car-in-berwick-20170206-gu6mlk.html
  3. V28VX37
    M156 in the front and LS1 in the back, everyone's happy
  4. V28VX37
    I've never used an aftermarket dash but seeing videos of Racepaks/exotics/Android based setups, most of them seem to display digital readings, which I imagine at speed would surely take a few milliseconds longer by the brain to process than an analog gauge? Call me old fashioned but seeing the general direction of a needle at a glance is much more important than knowing that your oil temp is exactly 117.6 degrees Celcius... Anyhow I've gone full boy racer with some old school Defis: I like them but they still didn't prevent me from blowing the engine. Also in the scheme of things, a modern integrated single solution like Defi ZD or Racepak is probably cheaper to set up from scratch, too.
  5. V28VX37
    Nice! Wouldn't see many of those around on the road from Bangkok to Phuket I'm guessing? Fingers crossed it's just air in the system. I had the same last year, diagnosed as a blown head gasket, replaced at a great cost. Then a last month the same symptoms again and the bottom end went, now looking for a replacement engine...
  6. V28VX37
    Looks good mate, what kind of price was is all up, roughly?
  7. V28VX37
    Mark @ Lucky Wheels and Tyres in West Melbourne. He used to run TyrePower North Melbourne, has done my alignments for the past couple of years now, recommended. EDIT: I would also avoid your run of the mill wheel and tyre joints. I had a really bad experience with a place in Fawkner who couldn't find 'R34 GTT' in their alignment machine's database and decided to use some random 70's Skyline settings instead, it was all over the shop.
  8. V28VX37
    Bump
  9. V28VX37
    Mine didn't, cracked the sads
  10. V28VX37
    I too am stuck at high 200's (275rwkw at last count, virtually identical to your result) but I thought I'd share my Trust turnflow setup as it's fairly rare: Results and supporting mods: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55845-rb25-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/?do=findComment&comment=7370873 Some more photos: https://www.flickr.com/photos/v28vx37/albums/72157644273574294DIY DIY thread: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348655-r34-gtt-front-mount-intercooler-installation/ I'm not sure what's the current limiting factor in my setup but at one point changing the cat picked up almost 20rwkw. Also, a question: Why do you want 300rwkw? In practical terms there's very little difference between ~270 and ~300 rwkw, and in fact I would pick the lower number any day if it's more responsive than the higher powered setup. (I've just killed my bottom end too, so even at my lowly power level these things aren't bullet proof...)
  11. V28VX37
    Are you going to run stock shocks? 50mm drop is significant, your stock shocks will struggle and start leaking before long (mine did). I had King Springs (can't remember exact code) on my R34 sedan and the drop was ~33mm front and ~38mm rear. The rear was super low, to the level that it was annoying. Also with a 50mm drop you will end up with heaps of negative camber so will have worse traction and chew tyres. The OEM adjustment is not enough to fix that. Two choices: you can go eccentric bushes to get some relief (I did this first, the installation sucks), then realise that it's not enough, and go full adjustable arms (I ended up with this). I'm afraid it is. Due to the suspension design on these cars, to drop them properly means coilovers and a full set of adjustable arms (front camber arms, front castor rods, rear camber arms, rear tension/traction rods, ideally HICAS lock bar/delete). It's a minimum 2k job, typically more.
  12. V28VX37
    Gosh that front lip / front bar setup looks intense, awesome work!! Looking forward to hearing how it goes on the track.
  13. V28VX37
    60k?!? Wow should be pretty mint, I remember not long ago when that was good R34 money
  14. V28VX37
    That'd be me! 'Houston, we have problem!!' Thanks mate
  15. V28VX37
    I'll go with a straight engine swap, less mucking around than moving the head across. Still chasing down an engine. What should I check/get checked with a second hand engine when buying? I was thinking: Compression test Check intake cam through oil filler Check belts Visual check all around Ideally (but unlikely): Remove timing cover and inspect Remove water pump and inspect Remove rocker covers and inspect Anything else? Acknowledging that inspection will be more limited if not buying locally.
  16. V28VX37
    From memory, (cooled) oil flows back into the engine through the middle of the sandwich plate. And yes there's always some flow to the cooler even when cold, how much depends on the design of the sandwich plate and the thermostat rating. Anecdotally a Mocal – which I have but wouldn't recommend – flows more than the Grex/Greddy unit, cold. Check out this thread, including plaything's comments: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/462362-oil-cooler-too-eager-faulty-thermostat-or-incorrect-temp-sensor-location/?page=2 There may be something useful in my oil cooler installation DIY thread too: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/462142-r34-gtt-oil-cooler-installation/ Put the core in the guard if you can, rather than inline with the radiator. Ports should be to the side or up, not down, to avoid trapping air in there.
  17. V28VX37
    Random observation but the manifold spacer supplied with my ATR43SS3 is noticeably thicker than yours: Maybe check with @hypergear which one it's meant to be, and/or if the thickness matters at all?
  18. V28VX37
    1. Kudos: http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/pressure-sender-nissan-300zx-skyline-p-1220.html
  19. V28VX37
    I remember at least two cars reporting just a smidge under 300rwkw on pulp with a Blitz so doubt that it's the sole restriction. Maybe search the 'all dyno results' thread for the full supporting mods? Also like I think I mentioned the other day, my car went from 257 to 275 rwkw by swapping from an Xforce to a Venom cat, decent difference. Which cat are you running?
  20. V28VX37
    Cheers mate. Re engine, I suspect there was an underlying issue with the bottom end, either minor crack in the block or ring damage. The issue was diagnosed as a HG which was swapped in October, and we thought everything was fine but pushing it on the track revealed not. The car has a 19 row oil cooler, new Mishimoto alloy rad, power steering cooler etc. so it should have been ok, in theory. 100 cars at Sandown is cool but 7 groups is a bit much. Also there was a break in sessions around 1pm (but no lunch of any form of paid catering either) which didn't seem necessary. Anyway just my 2c..
  21. V28VX37
    Good job! I've got a similar setup but didn't wan't to dismantle my genuine Defis so mounted them on a support and they just sit behind the triple gauge pod holes:
  22. V28VX37
    The grass is always greener Based on a completely unscientific sample of 90 vehicles listed in Thursday's results, 4 were Toyotas (none factory 1JZ/2JZ) vs. 9 Nissans (with 6 RB's). Perhaps the JZ guys are just above us plebs busting our venerable 'Race Breds' on the track haha
  23. V28VX37
    It wasn't a cut-and-dry case, no. It was an old HG with wear and 150k on it, but not a clear hole or tear. The HG was sent to the head shop together with the head but I never discussed it with that shop directly. My workshop had to do the TeeKay test several times too to get it to show signs of a HG issue and even then it wasn't 100% conclusive. So in short, your description above is completely plausible.
  24. V28VX37
    Nope backed off at that point. Overflow level always rose after a session, at one stage about 10cm so heaps. That's when it spat a bit out at the top of the overflow tanks. Bill and I bled the system in the afternoon, there was heaps of air in there at that point, too. Yep absolutely no way I could do more than 2 hot laps at all. Which is strange, as when I first started tracking the car I could do that much with stock rad and no oil cooler, so something's definitely amiss. ^^^ Same here.
  25. V28VX37
    Yes and no. Yes in the sense that I didn't cook it this time and the temps started dropping once you backed off the loud pedal. When I cooked it at Sandown last year the temps kept on rising even with no throttle and ultimately hit 125C for water. The root cause for this back then was a minor leak in the cooling system (that I didn't pick up in time), which depressurised the system and significantly reduced its cooling ability. No in the sense that on Thursday the car would only take 1-2 hot laps before hitting the warning level for water and oil soon thereafter (set at 105C for water and 120C for oil). This is with a brand new Mishimoto radiator and a 19-row oil cooler, and IMHO it should be able to take more than a lap and a half... I trust my gauges, genuine Defis and sensors all around. I also watch them like a hawk since last year's incidents, to the level that it's actually not that much fun driving as I'm just waiting for s__t to break again. Which it did.
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