KiwiRS4T

Gidday! What you are looking for is a RB25DET Neo engine out of an AWD S2 Stagea and then you'll be not too far off a GTR for a bargain price!

I got a pair of these: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/High-Power-Stebel-Magnum-Twin-Electric-12-volt-136dB-Car-or-Bike-Horn-Kit-Loud-/121599084940?hash=item1c4fdec98c:g:ip4AAOSwqfNXjrnW

Dunno. Are they bigger or better?

No got mine off an R34

Get a brand new set of BCPR6ES and gap them down to 0.8mm If that doesn't work unplug the AFM and see if it starts. If it does look up the "how to" on cleaning the AFM

As I remember GTT brakes bolted straight on to My S1 Stagea (had to trim the backing plate for the rears and pull the olives out) - I don't know if your DE is different from the DET but just get some GTT brakes - you should be able to make them fit without too much trouble.

Anyone will be able to swap out a fuel tank unless they are completely brainless. Don't forget to help by running your fuel low! And depending on mileage it would be a good time to fit a new fuel pump.

You just need a cheap gauge. Does it blow the dipstick out? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nice-Portable-Auto-Motor-Engine-Cylinder-Pressure-Gauge-Tool-Compression-Tester-/152311279791?hash=item237675b0af:g:2SsAAOSwKOJYIpT5 or Supercheap or Repco etc

What do you mean filling up the catch can easily? You mean with normal driving or on the track? If you have broken rings on one cylinder that will do it. Try another compression test and preferably a leakdown test.

Have you read this? http://my.prostreetonline.com/2016/03/29/test-rb25-tps-sensor/

Sounds odd. Dodgy diff??

Sorry can't help you with the nitty gritty because I got my local RB guru to do it on a hoist in his workshop. All I know is that the attessa pump etc had to be relocated and I had to chase round for 6 x 1 axles of various lengths (different left and right).

If you want to have a go depending on how you have mounted the Mac Valve the boost reference goes to the right, the centre is the vent and the left goes to the actuators - but test carefully in case you have accidentally allowed unlimited boost. You may need a new cable to the ECU although theoretically you can use the old boost controller wires. But unless you know how to tune the Haltech you may as well let the tuner hook up the Mac Valve.

No in that regard there is no difference between AWD PM35 or C34 s - they both need the same rolling radius front and rear as does the GTR. It is acheived by having different tyre sizes and profiles front and rear: 255/40/20 285/35/20

I got an R32GTR rear - I think you may need to remount the Attessa unit.

attached (its not mine - another member's)... Sorry just realised you are after a C34 - no I haven't seen one.

Including initial fill? As RX-Line said mineral oil is better for running in - but probably too late to change now. Did you use Hylomar or similar to stick the gasket down? How much oil actually leaked? I wouldn't have expected overfiling to result in a leak from there.

From what I can see on the photo that looks like its not a split dump but just a way to take twin exhausts to the rear. If so maybe not the most efficient set-up.

Its from the workshop manual. No it won't damage anything.

Atessa fuse trick only works on R32 For a Stagea you need to do this: Locate the "air bleed" wire behind the drivers kick panel, it's a plug with a single wire either side (usually green socket, white plug). In my S1 Stagea its a very small black plug taped to a loom with a single yellow wire with a green trace going to the plug and a single black wire going to the socket. Disconnect it. Start car. As key comes back to the ON position, within 10 seconds, depress brake pedal 5 times, 4WD light will start flashing to indicate you are in 2WD mode. You need to do this every time you start the car. To go back to 4WD mode, turn car off, reconnect plug and off you go. And if you plan to do this a lot you can put a switch in somewhere.

I gather this is a US term for what we call a split dump. Not sure what your question is though? OK I guess bend fit means benefit. The theory is that splitting the wastegate outlet from the main exhaust will improve overall flow. Done properly this should be the case but in some cases the wastegate flap can catch impacting on boost and so a bellmouth is often preferred.

Depends on the pump but you may as well do it when you install it as the cost is small - its mostly your time.

Nissan

If you don't want to spend money just now no need to change anything if you are not changing the turbo. If you have a FMIC and/or bigger exhaust on hand by all means fit them. What are you using for a tunable ECU? Do not expect earth shattering performance.

Take the coils out and give them a good clean and spray or wrap them with insulating material. Unless the plugs look new replace them and gap down to 0.8mm. Replace air filter clean AFM and if you have the means check timing. After that if you have a friendly workshop get them to check your AFRs.