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KiwiRS4T

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Everything posted by KiwiRS4T

  1. KiwiRS4T
    More info needed. What vehicle are you talking about? Is it a Stagea? The OV301 is the second most common of the S1 Stagea. The R34 one you have put in may have had traction control which may be the reason for the check light. If so I believe that you can get rid of it by installing a resistor or something like that. I have attached an R34 pinout chart which is much the same as the Stagea one. I don't know how the OV301 differs from the more common OV300. Pinouts R34_ecu.pdf Pinouts WGC34_Series_1_-_STAGEA_RB25DET_Auto_ECU_ translated.xls
  2. KiwiRS4T
    If you Google the numbers you get OEM N1 turbos
  3. KiwiRS4T
    get a turbo from hypergear. Not sure if he is interested in your dead ebay turbo but you could ask.
  4. KiwiRS4T
    If you are going to spend megabucks on an electronic boost controller and a Nistune consider instead getting a Link Atom ECU http://www.ebay.com/itm/Link-G4-Atom-ECU-Top-Quality-Entry-ECU-at-Budget-Price-4-8-12-cylinders-/122046134336?hash=item1c6a843840:g:bzUAAOSwqfNXiJHH&vxp=mtr which together with a Mac valve will give you electronic boost control and a great ECU and you can get it tuned in Surrey (they are dealers - you might find a tuner closer): Independent Speed Shop 604-533-1548 Surrey Canada British Columbia
  5. KiwiRS4T
    New Link ECU Not sure what this does fit but may of use to some people:
  6. KiwiRS4T
    Not familiar with your wastegate but have another look at how it is plumbed - especially if there are alternatives.
  7. KiwiRS4T
    That's getting into crazy territory. On my heavy Stagea I put D2 (=K sport) 8 pot 330mm on the front with Pagid pads and stock GTR two pot 297mm on the rear and that would pull it up from 250km/hr on the back straight and 240km/hr on the front straight lap after lap.
  8. KiwiRS4T
    You know that 1 bar is only 14.5psi? Have you got a boost controller or is boost controlled by the Link via a Mac Valve? I'm not sure that full boost in 1st gear is all that important.
  9. KiwiRS4T
    Have you still got the original turbo? Not sure where you are but I would consider trading it in with Hypergear I am sure he can supply you with a turbo suitable for your purposes. External head drains will do nothing for you. Read say the last half of this thread: Mainly you need oil restrictors and sump breathers. Motec are top of the line and top dollar. I am sure a Link or a Haltech will do what you want. And yes an oil cooler in the power steering line would be good. Nice trailer by the way...
  10. KiwiRS4T
    I don't know much more than you but starting with the easy ones idle should probably be more like 800 (assuming the engine is warmed up) timing about 15 deg. I believe the O2 sensor should be flicking up and down within a narrow range so a steady reading probably means its stuffed.
  11. KiwiRS4T
    Hi Adam good power! Looks a little laggy from the chart (as you would expect with those cams) doe it seem like that on the road? Do you have a 1/4 mile time? Nice looking coupe!
  12. KiwiRS4T
    Does your car have a window lock button which will prevent passenger operation?
  13. KiwiRS4T
    All Stageas except the RS260 have 3x 2 bolt pattern...but lengths may vary.
  14. KiwiRS4T
    GTRs are for fans, either rich or dedicated and good on them. Most GTRs (not all) seem to spend most of their time in the workshop or garage and owners have (need ) a daily driver. For you an evo would be a usefull daily as well as good for the odd track day. But get one quick ... they've stopped making them!
  15. KiwiRS4T
    You will be lucky to find anyone who can give you a before and after comparing type R with stock cams because usually (not always) people incorporate new cams in a new build. There's nothing wrong with sound theory - a modest increase in duration and lift should, if tuned right , give you a modest increase in power up top. Increased duration should work against response low down. I would keep the stock cams and get a better single.
  16. KiwiRS4T
    There was I believe a run of bad N1 pumps. Some people won't touch them but I have done about 20.000km on one. If I were building a high spec high power high revving engine I would use a Tomei. The N1 water pump is designed to be efficent at high revs so probably not a good idea in a street car and certainly not better than a new stock pump. If you are putting stock cams in your engine you could put adjustable gears on both and get them tuned on a dyno for best results.
  17. KiwiRS4T
    You need to confirm that it's the brand and not just the tank it came from. So try another Caltex and if you find BP does in fact burn cleaner then I guess you'll stick with it. I tend to buy somewhere local and look for the best discount. On the other hand I do use (and tune for) 98 .Sadly E85 is not available at the pump in Auckland and I can't be bothered with drums or driving miles to get it.
  18. KiwiRS4T
    On the R33 there is a small heat exchanger which is prone to leaking. If its the same on the VQ one of the M35 guys will tell you what to do. Maybe something like this:
  19. KiwiRS4T
    According to the Tomei chart (as you know) all RB26 cams are the same. But according to Wikpedia: . The N1 engine also has upgraded camshafts and upgraded turbochargers. Hopefully someone with such an engine will enlighten you. What are you going to use the car for? You may want to think twice before using the N1 water pump.
  20. KiwiRS4T
    Ask around for a shop or a member who can take the head off - should only be a couple of hour's work. Clean the mating faces and if the block is fine and the head in fine or only a little bit out and the valves look ok then skim the head on a flat surface with sandpaper and bolt it up with new head gasket and studs. It should be perfectly fine for the next 100,000 and cost not a lot.
  21. KiwiRS4T
    This shows where the snorkel sits (its an R33 but I imagine its pretty similar):
  22. KiwiRS4T
    Search using Google and all will be revealed. If you don't get the answer you need then rephrase your question.
  23. KiwiRS4T
    Block has a lot more mass. Clean it up and stick a straight edge on it.
  24. KiwiRS4T
    What he said^^^ Check out http://www.ecutalk.com/
  25. KiwiRS4T
    Have you got a new radiator cap? Have you had a new radiator? Go to a radiator shop and get a pressure test then get them to take the top tank off and clean out the radiator or recore as necessary. You're going to feel really silly if you replace the engine and nothing changes.
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