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Everything posted by Kinkstaah
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While I tend to agree - The reason we like Corvettes is why Americans like Skylines... they don't have them. I think a C6 Z06 with a 7 liter V8 and a manual is pretty peak car. But over there they're 'common', and a boosty boi R34 is more rare and appealing as a result.
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1JZ GTE, converted to "NA"
Kinkstaah replied to AshtonR33's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
Probably a good idea to read the laws before embarking on any kind of engine swap. I did it out of curiosity and it states that Mod plates for engine mods are not approved for P plate vehicles. Buy 86. Enjoy life. Come back to a Turbo car later if need be. (probably won't need be) -
1JZ GTE, converted to "NA"
Kinkstaah replied to AshtonR33's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
What state are you in that allows an engine conversion but not a Turbo? Swapping a NA motor in is just as illegal as having a turbo, and 500 times more work. Be a smart P plater, and buy an 86. You could have a nice daily/street car, and a turbo car for the track with your [engine of choice] if you're really super keen. -
Certain LS's do have issues with oil starvation, notoriously in long G left handers (like Winton has one of!). As soon as you go R comp or better (say, slicks in the above example) this is something you just have to be aware of. Gen4 LS's are by far the most notorious for this problem. So much so that GM ship the cars with Drysumps from OEM.. If you go to the track.. really just have to be aware of this no matter what motor you run. Like posted above, feels like an Accumulator on a RB (or any older motor) should be mod #1 before anything power related even begins. The only motors that seem to be "immune" to it (realistically less prone, not immune) are Renaults and MX5's somehow. Easy to find reports of race series using stock oil control for these motors.. Yet... I want to drive the problem prone one...
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Japanese discussing r34 prices
Kinkstaah replied to phelbas's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Once, I replaced parts on my project car with better parts. Unholy, I know. Alas, I do not repent. -
Have you considered a true boat? With a true boat anchor up front? Sorry man. I feel you.
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Doing a +t conversion on an unopened RB25DE NEO (R34 GT)
Kinkstaah replied to hey_aleks's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
This is because the new ECU is not driving the gearbox, and your NA gearbox is being driven by the NA gearbox ecu. (which is not the part you changed) -
Keep R33 Skyline or sell it for a 370z?
Kinkstaah replied to Blakeo's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
The NB SP is very different to a SE. Buy the SE, it came from the factory, is cheaper and generally OEM is best vs what an AU tuning company did to a non turbo car in 2002. Applying mods in 2020 will give better results lol. -
Keep R33 Skyline or sell it for a 370z?
Kinkstaah replied to Blakeo's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/mazda/mx-5/se-badge/ They seem closer to the 15-20k mark? MX5 motors are stout and the OEM turbo will do 190kw. That said, there's a lot at that price point. Namely 370z or 86's. -
subscribed (this will either be super easy or near impossible). Would have been much better, cheaper, and easier to put a VQ35 in and/or build/forge/boost that motor methinks.
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This is a Garrett thread, but were people aware Garrett have also mentioned maximum shaft speeds the entire time? It's just that BW were more open about it. Everything ultimately has a limit. The G25 also has a speed sensor option as well... and I think it was just BW pioneering putting a sensor in there for people to use that lead to people being mindful of it and then viewing it as a limitation.. I'd personally pick a G25 purely for packaging, seriously. Heat and lines and shit is also a thing! This is a 400+ rwkw SR20. I mean you'd have to have a pretty damn good reason to argue for anything else than a G Series in a modified road car right now where you have to consider space at all, for any reason.
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Cmon. This is due to people on SAU (and all JDM people) picking appropriately sized turbos for a 5 second pull and the best results on a dyno or the street. Garretts have historically been a little bit happier to take that abuse. Turbos sized for track use are always bigger than the above quote. EFR's are used on Indycars. EFR literally stands for Engineered For Racing!
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Differences between a 34 GTT and HR34 GT
Kinkstaah replied to Nippon_nick's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
It's not actually so bad - If you have a manual gearbox from a R33 GTST this is something that has been done many, many times. See also: a R34 GTT gearbox. Just make sure it's a turbo gearbox. The workshop manuals will get you home with a gearbox conversion and/or its been covered here many times. This fixes 90% of the problems, because the only 'hard' stuff is making the auto work. If you have no auto to talk to anymore, then eh, any of the WIDELY available ECU's can run the motor, and the your brain can be the ECU for the manual -
R34 - Differences between Series I & II
Kinkstaah replied to OzanMakinaci's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Going by GTR-Registry you'd be right (and I'm aware of no other source) BP9 (darker blue) seems to be S1 only. TV2 (bayside blue) seems to be S2 only. So something isn't adding up, and it would be monumentally unlikely that someone resprayed the engine bay a Series 1 colour... -
I mean, have a look at WTAC if you want to see what a S13/180 chassis can do. Or a porsche from 1991. Racing is seat time + budget. Can never have enough of either! There's no fast and cheap effective option. Some are better than others, sure, an 86 is a better platform than a 1950's Ferrari - but in anything serious enough it pays to check out the regulations first. And if there's no regulations then the objective really should be 'smiles'
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Differences between a 34 GTT and HR34 GT
Kinkstaah replied to Nippon_nick's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
The only thing that will directly bolt on is the car you are trying to turn this in to. Also it won't directly bolt on. Your ABS will be different to a GTT, so your rear diff is a S15 style too. Which you will need, cause you will have an open diff. The closest you will get is the looms etc from a GTT, but be aware, this will not plug and play and "just work" you will have cluster issues (speedo etc) to deal with. This car will teach you many things, in $ or in learning. There is no completely non-thinking way to achieve this goal. 2 million yen is what they sell for here too. You will only save money in sweat equity. Source, had R34 Non turbo, then put a turbo motor in it, then obtained a GTT, then manual converted it, then put a LS V8 and T56 into that GTT. I've seen things. You will too. -
Keep R33 Skyline or sell it for a 370z?
Kinkstaah replied to Blakeo's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Maybe I should convince my girlfriend to sell hers, for the right price ? -
Keep R33 Skyline or sell it for a 370z?
Kinkstaah replied to Blakeo's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
I have heard so many horror stories about 135i's from people I know that I would never want one of these. Boosted FA Rod bender is the choice, but the real sleeper is a NB Turbo MX5 from the factory. (or buy my megane) -
Keep R33 Skyline or sell it for a 370z?
Kinkstaah replied to Blakeo's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
370'z are going down in price, and R33's are going up. A smart choice is an older 370z for peanuts. A really really smart choice is an 86 with a mild boost kit. Skylines are great IF you can HAPPILLY encounter these problems and gain enjoyment from fixing them up, making them great, and enjoying the little things like buying satisfying new lines and shit. If this does not bring enjoyment to you, buy something you don't need to do this with. A Skyline that does not need this stuff done to it will likely run 35k++++. -
Prospective buyer in Japan: need advice on HR34 RB25det
Kinkstaah replied to GoHashiriya's topic in Introduce yourself
It's not that the cars are bad. I really love mine and I don't think I'd have anything else. So many stories, fun times, and learning that don't happen with a car you don't have to build from the ground up. RB25's are great, it's just best to be realistic when it comes to just how long and hard you can burn a candle at both ends. 90's cars were so project prone because the OEM gear was, well, not optimal. Nowadays OEM gear is a lot more optimal. Noone's putting coilovers on their M4 Competition (to the extent people would on say, a R32/33/34). My little megane hot hatch did a track day on OEM everything and it was the most fun trouble free day I've had. If you want to have a car where you get the satisfaction of changing everything, making it yours, watching it 'grow' then they are a great car. If you want to buy a car for resale, no. If you want a car that is great out of the box and you don't want to become a semi-mechanic, again no. If those things sound fun, then they are awesome cars and there's many many opportunities to spend a lot of cash tinkering and learning. The other side of the coin is this - I always say a GTT is better than a GTR, because in the end everything gets upgraded anyway and the cars only perform at what they get upgraded to, and a GTR becomes a really, really expensive bodykit and heavy AWD system. In this frame of mind the HR34 is going to be just fine - But be prepared to constantly explain that "oh yeah, it is a HR34..." and people do judge on this even if they shouldn't. Try having a sedan and getting 2nd class service everywhere. This shit does happen and people do kind of react based on whats 'cool' Tis just perspective. If the car fits the needs and you will think back and go "Yes, this is what I signed up for, I love this shit" then absolutely go for it. -
Prospective buyer in Japan: need advice on HR34 RB25det
Kinkstaah replied to GoHashiriya's topic in Introduce yourself
Here's the thing, the RB25DET and VQ35 (or VQ37) have about the same level of reliable power before they need a forged rebuild. You will also need an aftermarket turbo system on your VQ to get to that point. You will also need a rebuild and aftermarket turbo system on a RB25DET to get to that point. Never buy a skyline without expecting this as being needed soon, and budgeting the cash and the time to having it get done. Any skyline you want has every component done. They become good cars when every component is done. They are good cars because these options are available. Any decent skyline will eventually need: Wheels Tyres (larger than stock) Full exhaust system Aftermarket Radio/Audio Aftermarket Seats Aftermarket Turbo Aftermarket ECU/Engine Management Aftermarket Fuel system (not just injectors, you need pump (s) Aftermarket Suspension (choose a coilover kit of your choice) Aftermarket Bushes/Suspension arms/Camber, Toe, etc. Aftermarket Brake Kit/BBK (especially in your case) Aftermarket Diff Aftermarket axles (in your case) Aftermarket Clutch Engine Rebuild Aftermarket Radiator Aftermarket Oil Cooling (if you want to actually lean on it) You must factor the cost of this into your purchase price. Then remember shit breaks. You like them because you have seen the ones with all of the above done. You've done some of this to your Z. Rebuilt TT VQ is under much less stress than a RB25. You can fit much wider rubber on a Z. You already have the Z. The heart wants what the heart wants, though. Source: Done it all, many times, now have V8 in car because RB25DET is shit. You are talking USD, buy a C5 Z06. -
I mean it doesn't necessarily instantly kill the turbo. But there is a reason the people who made the turbo even made a blow off/recirculation valve. There is a reason all? turbos in any performance car have these valves.
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Prospective buyer in Japan: need advice on HR34 RB25det
Kinkstaah replied to GoHashiriya's topic in Introduce yourself
How much do you think this RB25DET is going to need repairs? Those fixes etc also do cost money. I just feel that a well sorted Z33 with a rebuilt motor (cant think of what else would cost 6k USD) Has: A rebuilt motor, not a 25 year old RB25det. Also prime for some mild boost. A well sorted Z33 with some boost is just going to be better than a nearly stock HR34 ? However the heart wants what the heart wants. This may also bite you in the butt, because noone really wants a HR34. They want at least a GTT. -
Prospective buyer in Japan: need advice on HR34 RB25det
Kinkstaah replied to GoHashiriya's topic in Introduce yourself
The Z is probably better. However you won't run into any issues, the rear sway bar will bolt on (it has the holes, you need the brackets from a GTT). Things are mostly compatible. Think R33 GTST brakes, R33 GTST Coilovers. Your gearbox kinda depends on what gearbox got put in. Could be a R33 GTST gearbox too, pretty common! I am basing this on the HR34 being the same as the ER34. There aren't any real HR34's in AU. The Z is probably better. -
R34 Front subframe assembly into R33 GTST
Kinkstaah replied to AshtonR33's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
They are very similar, but I don't think this has been done before/information is readily available. I know there are *SOME* differences in arms between a 33 and a 34 in the front. Ostensibly they are different for 'some reason' but I don't know if the front subframe is the reason for it. I have bent knuckles and front arms before and found out that the 34 ones have curves in them where the 33 ones are straight. But you also have things like 33 coils fitting in 34's and vice versa (at the front only) and sway bars (I think) 34 coupe and sedan are the same at the front, but as the front subframes generally dont get uh, broken? It's not something that generally gets swapped between cars..