GTSBoy

Yes, but that is not consistent with the concept of an "investment". That is purely not giving a f**k or disposing of the proceeds of crime, or both. If they buy it and flog it, then they're not treating it as an investment. They already pissed the money up the wall when they bought it whatever super inflated price it was. They're just making sure that they can't get the money back. If they buy it and don't drive it, then they are treating it like an investment. But in this case, what I said about the object of the investment not actually having the value assigned to it by the purchase price remains true. The only reason that the object can be considered to have that value is because at least one other person agrees that the object is worth that much money. And whilst that fact will also be true, it does not invalidate my claim that that value is completely imaginary and not based on any measurable grounds. You still can't drive it like a $500k supercar. Therefore it is not a $500k supercar. It is a $50k 20-30 year old pretty good car that someone has paid way too much for. If you do drive it like the $50k pretty good car that it is, you will erode the "value" that you put into it by paying far too much for it.

Win. Sealant is not an (all purpose) replacement for thread tape. In such an application (and for gas fittings, which I assemble a lot more of than I should) I always use tape and sealant. Coolant and even fuel fittings on cars can deserve both. The thread tape is more of a mechanical thing that jams up in the threads and as you have found, can arrange for the thread to lock up at the right orientation. The goop does what it says on the box. makes damn sure it won't seal.

What usage model?

Trouble is, it is an investment with no actual value. Objectively the cars are truly worthless when they are "priced" at those sorts of numbers, because you can't buy one with the intention to drive it, if you also want to be able to obtain a massive capital gain. People paying massive prices for these cars are buying something that is supercar money without supercar performance, and in order to preserve the "value", you can't even use what performance it does have. So the whole "I've always wanted one of these, I love the performance and the way they drive, and now I have the money to afford it" line you hear is a complete load of shit. It might have been believable at the $50-100k price region, but it just bullshit at multiples of that.

You can (and in this sort of case you need to) adjust the amount of tape you put on so that the fitting tightens up in the orientation you want. You just have to count the turns you put on. OK, well, if the thread is longer than the tape is wide, you also need to keep track of how much taper you put on by biasing turns of tape to the back end of the thread. But once you've developed the muscle memory, it's not rocket surgery.

As in.....it won't blow up, which we're all surprised that it hasn't already with the way it is wired now? Yes. You should do a little google on what it means to bridge an amp, and how it is achieved, so you at least understand, rather than flying blind.

RPM signal is a pulsed output from the ECU. You need to start at the source (ECU pin) and work your way forward along the wiring from there. That's diagnostics. Not randomly resoldering shit.

Don't pull the trigger so far?

Haha. Yep. That would be the bridge over the river Kwai. Where amplifiers go to die.

Well, it was either a fault in the oil pressure switch, or you had low oil pressure. Note that oil level in the sump and oil pressure are not necessarily correlated. There are other reasons for low oil pressure. What was the gauge saying at the time?

I've been using All Type Crash, Main Nth Rd, across the road from Parafield Airport. Alan's a good bloke and they semi-specialise in Skylines. Alan is a good bloke. I would hate to estimate. I got front bumper and lip redone for <$1k recently.

Yeah, because nothing says "quality feeling car" like plastic guards.

It was a strong first post.

^ Not even close. They abandoned all those silly rules years ago. So long as the wheel + tyre fits (doesn't stick out, doesn't hit the car), the rolling diameter stays within limits, and the track remains within the limit, you can fit anything. And no Turbo R33 has ever had 6" wide std wheel. Or 7s. All had the extra 0.5", unless GTR, which are of course 9".

That was said in the project office I am sitting in about 30 minutes ago. "Hope is not a management tool".

Cracked, as in cracked through/broken, or cracked as in crazed/hazed? If the latter, then yes, pulling them apart (very gently) and working on the inner surface might help. There are full aftermarket LED retrofit type things available too.

What specifically is wrong with the headlights? And, are you actually in a position where GTR headlights are easier to get hold of than GTST lights? I ask these questions because there are other things you can do to improve headlights, and whilst I don't know for sure (because R33 and I prefer not to know too much about them).....It is unlikely that the GTR headlights swap with GTST. They don't on R32. Well, they do, but they are different. Different grille brackets, etc.

I would suggest that you stop doing what you are doing and take the car to an auto-electrician. I don't think replacing the alternator was likely to be the correct response to what appears to be a wiring problem elsewhere. The likelihood that we can diagnose what the real problem is across the internet is, on all previous evidence, f**k all.

As if you wouldn't put a massive Yank crate motor in the thing. This is why the USA exists!

Why not power it up and measure it?

Well, yes. They could be stickier or less sticky than previous. To cause tramp, it's more likely that they are more sticky rather than less. They could have a different sidewall stiffness and/or different inflation pressure. Try a bit more and less pressure ans see which feels better. That might help tramp and make handling worse, so you may have to find a new compromise. I have axle tramp. I will never do anything to get rid of it that will adversely affect the lateral grip of the rear end.

That is just insane. You'll very soon be able to get a 400Z for about the same coin. Objectively about 30x better.

The fact that it is behind the centre console doesn't mean it has anything to do with gauges. It actually belongs on the other side of the steering column, next to the fuse box.

I usually remove my pipes to work on the PS pump/belt.

Yeah, well, I assumed RWD sump put on the 26. Better than hacking up 26 sumps.