GTSBoy

Spam is spam dude! Doesn't matter how deep you dig.

7 on the stock gauge is a little less than 14 psi. The stock gauge isn't bad, so if they disagree, suspect your aftermarket one first. Add another gauge in temporarily (from a workshop) to double triple check, The behaviour of the boost gauge (staying up) sounds sus too. Double and triple check the lines feeding that, just in case of stupidity. And RB25 stock actuator pressure is 5 psi. It is brought up to 7 psi by the stock boost control valve. What to check next? Put a pressure gauge into the fuel line upstream of the fuel rail and load the engine. If you have to go to a workshop to do this, then do it. There is no point flailing around in the dark. Do not f**k about with the regulator. There will be nothing wrong with it. There is no sensor on the fuel rail. It is a pressure pulsation dampener.

Supercharger no less reliable than a turbo. Probably better. But that's not the point. RB20 is a small engine with a tiny engine's torque. Put a big turbo on an RB20 to make big power and you have 5500 rpm of no torque followed by an instant rise to all the torque. Which is absolute shit for a street car. Absolute shit for anything except drag, really. A supercharger provides an instant capacity multiplier from idle on upwards. What's not to love?

I'm with Kiwi. Lean as f**k, caused by low fuel pressure. Solve that first, then check to make sure that the boost gauge is not telling you lies. What is the stock gauge going up to?

All cheap coilovers are the same shit.

It's been national "drive like a (unt" week for the last 2 weeks already. 20 kays over the limit everywhere, drifting in traffic. You name it.

Serious Skylines run 4". It is amazing how much more power you can make from any size exhaust if you don't put the WG flow back into it though!

CVT f**ked. No internet diagnosis beyond that possible.

No. You post on the internet. Diagnosis 101! duh! Where have you been lately?

Be brave and put a supercharger on it. M112 or something man sized.

I am 100% sure that the procedure for bleeding the ABS has been posted before. Search, and ye shall find. By the way, it is a complete prick of a task. Also, when it comes to (vital safety) stuff like brakes, if you really do not know enough to solve your own problems, you should really consider using a professional to fix them. Just sayin'.

It's date stamped 1990. The chances of that not being genuine are what? Zero? Less than zero?

That all kinda comes down to how large the headlight housing is and how much time you spend on high beam. Back in the day with all glass 7" roundeyes it was trivial to put in 100W globes and not worry about overheating anything. Nowadays (or more to the point, back in the 80s/90s!!!) with physically smaller plastic housings and flimsy metallised plastic reflectors, the extra heat from a 100W globe can be a bad thing. If you don't use high beams so much, it probably passes without any issue. But for country cars that can spend half an hour or so on high beam quite easily, you start to see distortion and scorching in the back end of the housings. That's one of the causes of the chromey shit peeling up, etc etc.

No! Bad Kiwi! You're supposed to stop him from having to do his own diagnosis!!!!!

Well, in that case, a few truths apply; Buying expensive Jap brand name clutches for low power RB20s doesn't make sense. Most people on SAU are in Australia, therefor most of us would recommend an Extreme or NPC or one of several other local clutch assemblers. These are all Australian businesses, so it would make no sense to recommend one of them to you. Therefore you are reduced to waiting for someone in the US to make a similar recommendation on a clutch supplier in the states that they trust to build good clutches for Jap cars......or you widen your search parameters (away from Skyline specific info sources) and just look at who recommends what shops in the US for similar applications.

Twisting the car's body can definitely crack the windscreen. Did it do it in this case? How can we know?

But you would be very very wrong. There is enough pressure drop across the shitty sidemount for that to be a bad idea. Although it should result in other bad effects, not low boost. I'd seriously be looking for boost & exhaust leaks.

Buy AD08R instead.

Maybe. Definitely. Are you seriously asking if we think you jacking the car up is what caused the windscreen to break, when the windscreen broke as/after you jacked the car up?

What country are you in?

ABS is not rubber. ABS is a hardish plastic like PVC. Anything that is rubber with studs will very likely be genuine.

R32 doesn't have a cabin air filter. Waaay too old for that.

Did you mean retune? If so, then not likely, no. Unless it was tuned on the ragged edge with the spark failing to burn all the fuel. In which case someone would need their arse kicked anyway.

Well, regardless of what the actual problem with the pump is, you cannot make more fuel out of thin air with a rising rate reg.

Follow the wires.....